Metal thermostat housing KV6 - Page 22

Prometheus · 26th October 2010, 10:27

Sent email to roversATnetactive.co.za to inquire about purchasing since mine has gone

MikeHurley · 12th November 2010, 23:08

Totally agree with Kaiser, it would be great to see a series of photos for the method described by 'scaevola' above as a How To.

Would assist in reduced Labour and Time Costs!

Mr Edd · 13th November 2010, 04:52

Just for interest here is a pictorial of when Dr Dave fitted my metal thermostat. Click Me

Also may I reiterate use Jubilee clips to replace the OEM clips while doing the job rather than having to go back in at a later date to do it again.

I also discovered that the OEM clip under the expansion tank had failed as well.

Well worth checking that too.

Edd

Bernard LPG · 13th November 2010, 07:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeHurley

Totally agree with Kaiser, it would be great to see a series of photos for the method described by 'scaevola' above as a How To.

Would assist in reduced Labour and Time Costs!

Having already fitted the metal housing I think maybe that 'scaevola' must be a gynaecologist.

scaevola · 22nd November 2010, 07:17

Bernard LPG,
I have large Aussie hands and average dexterity.
No gynaecologist, I assure you.

My post encouraged people to fit Kaiser's parts by a non-standard method.
I appreciate that to deviate from the manual is daunting, but it CAN be done without removing the manifolds.
I did it, and it proved to be surprisingly easy.
To my regret, I made no photos, as the decision was made on the spot, unplanned.

The book method is foolproof. But it has hidden costs and delays.
It is very likely that new parts will be required, (the 'O'-rings for sure), and removal often causes damage to other components, eg.,in using wedges.
And those two manifold support bolts at the centre rear are diabolically difficult... Talk about the Right way, the Wrong way, and the Rover way!

A method that avoids removing the manifolding at all has much to recommend it.
You'll need a:
long strongly magnetised screwdriver,
broomstick cut to lengths,
rubber mallet
1/4 inch socket set with 2x 200mm extensions
1/4 inch universal joint to fit the extension
jointing compound.

A fairly detailed method has been posted above, and in the other Forum.
I can only suggest that others give it a try.
I warmly commend the quick method that worked so well for me. And Kaiser's parts, which make that quick method possible.

carl · 22nd November 2010, 13:28

Are the parts of this kit the same for teh Kv6 In the ZS (180) ?

If so whats the current price with postage for these units , im thinking that I ought to change the OE stat for one of these before it decides to empty the coolant allover the block

Carl

Prometheus · 22nd November 2010, 16:13

I've done it with the new method. But had problems and leaks. Worst leak was the 90 Degree elbow joint in the block we could not get it to seal properly. So as a last restort we put the plastic one back in. Thank god it came out in tact. I still had a verry slow leak somewhere loosing about half a coke can a week. More of a "sweat" leak. So i put a can of Bar's Leak in and it seems to be solid now no more leaks.

You can do it the new way but you might run into fitting problems. But with the old way you have acces to all the parts from the top and you can "charge up" the system before you put it all back on and diagnose leaks easyer.

One thing i used hose clamps on ALL new connections just to be sure and safe. This is a MUST on this modification.

Jules · 22nd November 2010, 19:16

My feeling having fitted about 5 metal housings is that the O rings Kaiser has selected are slightly too thick in the cord diameter, and we have suffered leaks due to "nipped" seals. (even with a rubber lube prior to fitting)

Also we are not sure about the spec of the O rings so I usually fit HBNR70 spec seals instead with no further leaks.
Perhaps Kaiser would comment to put our minds at ease!

kaiser · 29th November 2010, 15:52

You will normally have no problems fitting the O-ring which is an R4118.
Although you have to be careful not to nip the rubber when inserting, but a combination of lubrication and twist works. As for lubricants, petroleum jelly, dishwashing liquid etc.
Of all the unit we have installed here, I have never heard or seen a nipped O-ring, but of course, anything is possible.

(well a couple on the fuel rails, but that doesn't count

)

The hole size in the block is 38mm, the groove is 3mm wide with the base diameter 33mm and the O-ring is 3mm in diameter, which means that you have 1mm of diameter that needs to be squeezed.

You can always choose a thinner O-ring if you like, but the R4118 works fine and if inserted correctly will seal superbly. The longest units running for very close to two years. Bone dry!

albertnguyen · 30th November 2010, 00:03

Hi Kaiser,

I would like to order a metal thermostat housing for the KV6 2.5 engine which you have been able to supply to other members in the forum. Please advise the procedure and your contact details.

Regards,

Albert

26th October 2010, 10:27	#211
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Sent email to roversATnetactive.co.za to inquire about purchasing since mine has gone __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

12th November 2010, 23:08	#212
MikeHurley Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: London Posts: 659 Thanks: 129 Thanked 26 Times in 24 Posts	Totally agree with Kaiser, it would be great to see a series of photos for the method described by 'scaevola' above as a How To. Would assist in reduced Labour and Time Costs! __________________ To do list: Aux Drive Belt ....... Sept 2017 Kaiser Alumium Stat Housing ....Jan 2017 Rear o/s wheel bearing set changed.....Aug 2014 Cam & Aux Belts...May 2014 Tazu Inner tie rod ends...May 2014 Need Timing Belts changed...done April 2014 Front Shocks and Strut Bearings ....done Mar 2014 Polybushes to Wishbone Arms.....done Mar 2014 Handbrake compensator changed...done Oct 2013 Exhaust Back Box a.......done 16/8/13 Quality Front Drop Links...done 16/8/13 Rear Springs ..done 16/8/13

13th November 2010, 04:52	#213
Mr Edd From the Horses Mouth 2012 Honda Oddessay and 1996 Ford Ranger Truck (Splash) Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fort Myers, Florida Posts: 1,045 Thanks: 0 Thanked 13 Times in 7 Posts	Just for interest here is a pictorial of when Dr Dave fitted my metal thermostat. Click Me Also may I reiterate use Jubilee clips to replace the OEM clips while doing the job rather than having to go back in at a later date to do it again. I also discovered that the OEM clip under the expansion tank had failed as well. Well worth checking that too. Edd __________________ I'd be dyslexic if I could spell ti.

22nd November 2010, 07:17	#215
scaevola Newbie Rover 75 KV6 2.5 petrol Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Adelaide, South Australia Posts: 8 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Installing Kaiser's parts the quick way Bernard LPG, I have large Aussie hands and average dexterity. No gynaecologist, I assure you. My post encouraged people to fit Kaiser's parts by a non-standard method. I appreciate that to deviate from the manual is daunting, but it CAN be done without removing the manifolds. I did it, and it proved to be surprisingly easy. To my regret, I made no photos, as the decision was made on the spot, unplanned. The book method is foolproof. But it has hidden costs and delays. It is very likely that new parts will be required, (the 'O'-rings for sure), and removal often causes damage to other components, eg.,in using wedges. And those two manifold support bolts at the centre rear are diabolically difficult... Talk about the Right way, the Wrong way, and the Rover way! A method that avoids removing the manifolding at all has much to recommend it. You'll need a: long strongly magnetised screwdriver, broomstick cut to lengths, rubber mallet 1/4 inch socket set with 2x 200mm extensions 1/4 inch universal joint to fit the extension jointing compound. A fairly detailed method has been posted above, and in the other Forum. I can only suggest that others give it a try. I warmly commend the quick method that worked so well for me. And Kaiser's parts, which make that quick method possible.

22nd November 2010, 13:28	#216
carl Posted a thing or two MG ZS 180, MGF 75th Aniversary and Kirsts ZT CDTi 135+, MG ZT-T CDTi Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Scunthorpe Posts: 1,721 Thanks: 14 Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts	Are the parts of this kit the same for teh Kv6 In the ZS (180) ? If so whats the current price with postage for these units , im thinking that I ought to change the OE stat for one of these before it decides to empty the coolant allover the block Carl __________________ Is attempting a bit of refurbishment

22nd November 2010, 16:13	#217
Prometheus Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: The Netherlands Posts: 137 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I've done it with the new method. But had problems and leaks. Worst leak was the 90 Degree elbow joint in the block we could not get it to seal properly. So as a last restort we put the plastic one back in. Thank god it came out in tact. I still had a verry slow leak somewhere loosing about half a coke can a week. More of a "sweat" leak. So i put a can of Bar's Leak in and it seems to be solid now no more leaks. You can do it the new way but you might run into fitting problems. But with the old way you have acces to all the parts from the top and you can "charge up" the system before you put it all back on and diagnose leaks easyer. One thing i used hose clamps on ALL new connections just to be sure and safe. This is a MUST on this modification. __________________ Car info. MG ZT 190 2003

22nd November 2010, 19:16	#218
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	My feeling having fitted about 5 metal housings is that the O rings Kaiser has selected are slightly too thick in the cord diameter, and we have suffered leaks due to "nipped" seals. (even with a rubber lube prior to fitting) Also we are not sure about the spec of the O rings so I usually fit HBNR70 spec seals instead with no further leaks. Perhaps Kaiser would comment to put our minds at ease! __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

29th November 2010, 15:52	#219
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	You will normally have no problems fitting the O-ring which is an R4118. Although you have to be careful not to nip the rubber when inserting, but a combination of lubrication and twist works. As for lubricants, petroleum jelly, dishwashing liquid etc. Of all the unit we have installed here, I have never heard or seen a nipped O-ring, but of course, anything is possible. (well a couple on the fuel rails, but that doesn't count) The hole size in the block is 38mm, the groove is 3mm wide with the base diameter 33mm and the O-ring is 3mm in diameter, which means that you have 1mm of diameter that needs to be squeezed. You can always choose a thinner O-ring if you like, but the R4118 works fine and if inserted correctly will seal superbly. The longest units running for very close to two years. Bone dry! Last edited by kaiser; 29th November 2010 at 16:14..

30th November 2010, 00:03	#220
albertnguyen Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Sydney Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Metal Thermostat Housing for KV6 engine Hi Kaiser, I would like to order a metal thermostat housing for the KV6 2.5 engine which you have been able to supply to other members in the forum. Please advise the procedure and your contact details. Regards, Albert