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Old 18th August 2018, 20:54   #11
vitesse
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Many thanks Brian - your reply arrived just before bed time (+1hr here) I will no doubt have a restful night knowing that come the morning there will be hope.

Will be out to the garage first thing tomorrow with my apprentice daughter and advise on progress.

Many thanks
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Old 19th August 2018, 13:57   #12
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Brian,

Sadly not much progress on the Tourer although it now seems more eager to start but then starts coughing soon afterwards until warm. Check engine light still on and fault codes remain.

We were unable to find a solid yellow wire coming out of the fuse box. However fuse 1 does have power, tested power to the VIS motors at 14.46v, yet P1477 appears. Could you tell me the location of the spliced solid yellow to yellow/blue? Would a T4 give us more information about the wiring problem?

Finally, I do have a spare ECU kit but for an auto, as is my own car, but the Tourer is a manual, does that matter?

Your advice much appreciated,

Mike
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Old 19th August 2018, 14:19   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
Brian,

Sadly not much progress on the Tourer although it now seems more eager to start but then starts coughing soon afterwards until warm. Check engine light still on and fault codes remain.

We were unable to find a solid yellow wire coming out of the fuse box. However fuse 1 does have power, tested power to the VIS motors at 14.46v, yet P1477 appears. Could you tell me the location of the spliced solid yellow to yellow/blue? Would a T4 give us more information about the wiring problem?

Finally, I do have a spare ECU kit but for an auto, as is my own car, but the Tourer is a manual, does that matter?

Your advice much appreciated,

Mike
Hi Mike, you could use the automatic ECU set as a test, however you will need to attach a wire to the starter solenoid spade terminal, and connect this to the battery positive to allow the car to crank.

So making sure the car is in neutral and ignition to position 2, touch the wire from the starter to the battery positive to start it

Sorry I don't know where the splice joint is I'm afraid, but if there is 12v present on the yellow and blue wire, then it's safe to conclude that it's ok

Brian
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Old 19th August 2018, 14:45   #14
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Brian,

OK thanks, might be good to rule out the ECU, and then keep searching. Good news is I've lots of time and spares.

Regards,

Mike
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Old 22nd August 2018, 11:35   #15
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Time to test the spare auto ECU kit (as bought from ebay) in the manual car. After finding that none of my extensive security bits (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100pcs-Ch....c100506.m3226

matched the EWS it was back to a cold chisel and lump hammer.

Following MarinaBrian's ever helpful instructions I rigged up a cable running from the starter spade to battery, but then somewhat automatically turned the key all the way to the crank position and it fired!

Although reluctant to start as previously described, it did and all the important fault codes had disappeared along with the check engine light. All that remains is a fault on the 3rd speed of the cooling fan, which I know works.

Time now for a good run and then the MoT after being dormant for 3 years.

Thanks for the replies with a special “thank you” to MarinaBrian and VIS Dave for their input.
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Old 27th August 2018, 19:48   #16
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OK so back again, same car same problem - cold & hot starting, hesitant smelly petrol starts. Then the rest of the drive is normal, no stalling at lights, temp. a bit low around 78 degs so needs new stat.

And then I got to thinking about MarinaBrian's advice of rigging up a cable from the battery to the starter spade contact. But it cranked on the key without Brian's special, humm Brian's does know about these things, and next I started wondering whether the ebay seller who sold me a 2.0ltr kit for an auto, could he also have sent a 2.5 ltr one? So checked the SAR no. It is a manual tune, not auto as sold, but still a 2.0. I was secretly praying that it was 2.5 which would account for overfuelling and difficult starts.

Back at the drawing board, no fault codes, no check engine light, but difficult hot & cold starts. New plugs, fresh fuel, cleaned and substituted throttle housing. Not got much hair left to tear out. Shame to scrap as bodywork too good.

At this stage no ideas will get ignored, but welcomed

Regards
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Old 27th August 2018, 22:57   #17
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How cold is cold start ? The KV6 CAM sensor going bad does affect warm and warning starts.
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Old 28th August 2018, 07:50   #18
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Thanks for the reply. Temperature is around 15 degs at the moment, but even though no fault codes I tried swopping the cam (& crank sensor) but no difference.

It's the first few minutes after start whether hot or cold that the engine runs roughly, I can hear it firing on what seems like only 3 or 4 cylinders, yet no fault codes recorded. Tickling the throttle and keeping revs up is necessary for these first few minutes, then the car is as good as gold. No stalling at lights, slightly high rpm but the thermostat needs changing as it's struggling to get up to 80 degs when hot.

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Old 28th August 2018, 08:18   #19
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Just a thought Mike; have you checked for a small exhaust leak, most likely upstream?

Simon
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Old 28th August 2018, 08:33   #20
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Hi Simon,

No not specifically, I've been below checking the lambda wiring, even replacing the lambdas and gave the exhaust a look, all parts forward look new(ish), the only thing that needs replacing soon is the rear silencer.

What's your line of thought?

Mike
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