Number plate light problem (saloon)

02CDT · 31st May 2012, 10:27

I was driving home the other night when the warning light came on for a light failure. When I checked both number plate lights had failed, strange that both bulbs should blow I thought.
Next morning I checked the lights, both bulbs appeared okay. I took the assembly apart and one of the copper spring bulb holders was loose and was not providing a connection at the mounting board. A bit of brute force with a screwdriver reconnected them. Both bulbs were then working but when I used the car again at night one of the bulbs stopped working, the one I had not done anything about. I checked this side with a multimeter and it has a voltage across the connectors of about 11.5 and the bulb is in working order. put them together however and they still do not work, any ideas anyone?

Reebs · 31st May 2012, 10:41

It's a common fault, the circuit board connection tracks can split and break in the boot handle, so need resoldering.

Take at look at this How To...

Number Plate Light Repaired (PCB damage)

Hope that helps

02CDT · 31st May 2012, 19:36

Thanks for the link, I suppose it must be a damaged connection to the PCB it was strange how I was getting a voltage but yet the bulb was not working. As luck would have it however it has decided to start working of its own accord! I will have to take it apart sometime and check the soldered joints and renew them to stop it happening again.

blacknwhite · 31st May 2012, 20:04

Mine has done exactly the same for about 6 months. Sometimes a bang on the boot lid works. Now that I see what the probable problem is, I'll give it some investigation.

Yet again, some useful information passed on to fellow sufferers. Brilliant club this.

blackbar · 7th June 2012, 17:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by 02CDT

I was driving home the other night when the warning light came on for a light failure. When I checked both number plate lights had failed, strange that both bulbs should blow I thought.
Next morning I checked the lights, both bulbs appeared okay. I took the assembly apart and one of the copper spring bulb holders was loose and was not providing a connection at the mounting board. A bit of brute force with a screwdriver reconnected them. Both bulbs were then working but when I used the car again at night one of the bulbs stopped working, the one I had not done anything about. I checked this side with a multimeter and it has a voltage across the connectors of about 11.5 and the bulb is in working order. put them together however and they still do not work, any ideas anyone?

I had exactly the same problem last weekend but with only one bulb. Both bulbs were good and 12v measured at the contacts of both bulbs. I measured the resistance from the pos to each of the bulb holders, on one I got 1.8 ohms and the other 1.7 Mega Ohms,it was not corroded tracks but high resistance at the riveted connection on the bulb holder so I soldered all 4 riveted connections to the bulb holdrs and both bulb holders show a max resistance of 1.8 Ohms.

hope this helps , Barry

chuckie6819 · 8th June 2012, 23:00

Had this problem with mine too, had replaced bulbs, initially they worked then the didn't, was able to get a new part off ebay for £25, it was a good job too cause the original was brittle and broke when removed.

Astraeus · 8th June 2012, 23:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckie6819

Had this problem with mine too, had replaced bulbs, initially they worked then the didn't, was able to get a new part off ebay for £25, it was a good job too cause the original was brittle and broke when removed.

Hi

As said above new ones are not too expensive. I soldered mine but keep having to do it again. New one the best solution. It drove me nuts!

Chris

kissifer1972 · 8th June 2012, 23:50

I soldered mine and soldered the bulbs in place and never had a problem since.

Chris

rich17865 · 9th June 2012, 07:19

When refitting mine, i applied plenty of silicone to stop water getting in and damaging the pcb again. I had also noticed that the normal bulbs were causing the housing to burn and crack allowing water in too, so sealed that with more silicone and fitted canbus friendly led bulbs as they produce almost no heat at all.

No problems since

31st May 2012, 10:27	#1
02CDT Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Number plate light problem (saloon) I was driving home the other night when the warning light came on for a light failure. When I checked both number plate lights had failed, strange that both bulbs should blow I thought. Next morning I checked the lights, both bulbs appeared okay. I took the assembly apart and one of the copper spring bulb holders was loose and was not providing a connection at the mounting board. A bit of brute force with a screwdriver reconnected them. Both bulbs were then working but when I used the car again at night one of the bulbs stopped working, the one I had not done anything about. I checked this side with a multimeter and it has a voltage across the connectors of about 11.5 and the bulb is in working order. put them together however and they still do not work, any ideas anyone?

31st May 2012, 10:41	#2
Reebs Owners Club Director Rover 75 Conn SE V6 / MG ZT 260 SE V8 / MG ZT 180 SE V6 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Southampton Posts: 20,947 Thanks: 645 Thanked 6,851 Times in 2,537 Posts	It's a common fault, the circuit board connection tracks can split and break in the boot handle, so need resoldering. Take at look at this How To... Number Plate Light Repaired (PCB damage) Hope that helps __________________ Check your trim here . Check your spec here Check your colour here . Check Project Drive here Check your original price here

8th June 2012, 23:50	#8
kissifer1972 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Conn Tourer & Rover 75 CDT Conn SE Saloon Join Date: May 2010 Location: Queensbury Posts: 1,368 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I soldered mine and soldered the bulbs in place and never had a problem since. Chris __________________ Mods so far X-Power Performance Upgrade LED interior lights and sidelights Genuine Rover Xenons - now removed and sold Kenlowe fan Synergy 2 EGR Bypass

31st May 2012, 19:36	#3
02CDT Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Cheshire Posts: 10 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the link, I suppose it must be a damaged connection to the PCB it was strange how I was getting a voltage but yet the bulb was not working. As luck would have it however it has decided to start working of its own accord! I will have to take it apart sometime and check the soldered joints and renew them to stop it happening again.

31st May 2012, 20:04	#4
blacknwhite Posted a thing or two Black Rover 75 Connie CDT and Twilight Chromactive ZT Turbo Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 1,602 Thanks: 15 Thanked 16 Times in 7 Posts	Mine has done exactly the same for about 6 months. Sometimes a bang on the boot lid works. Now that I see what the probable problem is, I'll give it some investigation. Yet again, some useful information passed on to fellow sufferers. Brilliant club this.

8th June 2012, 23:00	#6
chuckie6819 Regular poster 2002 75 2.0 V6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Coventry Posts: 94 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Had this problem with mine too, had replaced bulbs, initially they worked then the didn't, was able to get a new part off ebay for £25, it was a good job too cause the original was brittle and broke when removed.

9th June 2012, 07:19	#9
rich17865 This is my second home Transit Connect Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Crewe Posts: 9,532 Thanks: 868 Thanked 1,619 Times in 1,095 Posts	When refitting mine, i applied plenty of silicone to stop water getting in and damaging the pcb again. I had also noticed that the normal bulbs were causing the housing to burn and crack allowing water in too, so sealed that with more silicone and fitted canbus friendly led bulbs as they produce almost no heat at all. No problems since