The dreaded temp gauge red light... - Page 3

Yorkshire GOC · 29th November 2018, 13:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by hogweed

Sorry for the thread hijack, but... should I/is it even possible on my TF?

Hi,

Follow this link on e-BAY - Bizzie Lizzie aka Jack manufactures digital temp gauges for 75's/ZT's which beside a visual real time temp also alarms at 110 and 115 - he is very helpful and am sure will be able to advise re your TF.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Button-Di...CL7:rk:10:pf:0

Steve1966 · 1st December 2018, 11:38

Frustratingly the IMG gasket I ordered a week last Friday hasn’t arrived so it looks like a delay till next weekend to get thermostat and IMG sorted in one go. Let’s hope it doesn’t rain too much next week on the bike!

Steve1966 · 3rd December 2018, 19:30

In case Matt from DMGRS reads this could you please reply to my email query regarding my IMG order from the 23rd Nov, order #25247. Thanks.

Steve1966 · 4th December 2018, 20:20

Still not received my IMG after almost 2 weeks and no communication from the seller so can someone tell me if there is a physical location I can go to near Coventry/Nuneaton that can sell me one? After a ride to work in freezing conditions this morning I’m about sick of the online delivery lottery and need to get my car back on the road this weekend. Many thanks.

rrobson · 4th December 2018, 21:06

You can get them from rimmers, about £3 more expensive but two or three days max for delivery. In fact you can pay for next day but it's expensive. I've had my v6 in bits and needed to order an oil pump gasket and another img because I only ordered one img from dmgrs so just got both from rimmers. I always order a good week in advance when buying from dmgrs, other places can have them at your door a lot quicker.

Steve1966 · 8th December 2018, 15:34

Apologies, this will no doubt become a long post...just changed thermostat and IMG. Car behaved much as before with rad remaining cold as temps rose past 110C. Decided to double check rad was clear so flushed and back flushed even though I’d done it a couple of months ago. Filled and bled again. Temp rose to north of 105C so left engine running and checked rad and bottom hose. Both cold. I remembered that when squeezing the top hose during bleeding that it had a longitudinal fault in it. I wondered if this could have collapsed internally and caused a blockage so I felt it and it promptly split spraying coolant at 100C+ into my face. Thank god for wearing glasses. Once the 10 ft high geyser had desisted I then had the joy of a forced car wash to remove the coolant from the paintwork (which in today’s wind had covered most of the car). I removed the top hose but it was clear inside. So what’s left? Water pump? 7 hours and I’m in a worse position than when I started. Car looks lovely and clean though 😂

SD1too · 8th December 2018, 15:56

Blimey Steve, you were lucky not to have suffered serious burns when the hose split. Are you sure you're ok?

If the bottom radiator hose is cold then there's still no flow through it which explains the high temperatures. Have you read MG Rover's refilling and bleeding procedure for the 1.8 engine? I seem to remember that there's a valve which should be checked.

Simon

cb750chris · 8th December 2018, 15:58

Hi Steve,
If the rad is not getting hot, then that means that water is not circulating.
The only reasons for this that I can think of is a stuck thermostat (which you have already changed), an airlock (you say you have bled the system properly) or a defective waterpump.
If you haven't done so, it may be worth checking the water pump. It is very rare, but it is possible for the water pump to fail without leaking - the impeller stops rotating with the shaft.
Chris

Steve1966 · 8th December 2018, 16:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Blimey Steve, you were lucky not to have suffered serious burns when the hose split. Are you sure you're ok?

If the bottom radiator hose is cold then there's still no flow through it which explains the high temperatures. Have you read MG Rover's refilling and bleeding procedure for the 1.8 engine? I seem to remember that there's a valve which should be checked.

Simon

I think the initial coolant that hit me was cooler than the main bulk as it was in the hose but not circulating. The split was about 15mm long. Once the hot coolant in the engine had somewhere to go the geyser grew and rose impressively. I’m reasonably confident about the bleeding as I’ve done it a number of times before. I’ll get a new hose, revisit the bleeding, then look into the water pump if no joy. I forgot to mention I did suffer burns today..when I squeezed one bank of the exhaust manifold instead of the hose next to it whilst distracted. I won’t do that again. Not been the best day and another week on the bike for work. Oh joy.

T-Cut · 8th December 2018, 16:35

Before stripping it down to the pump, check for the good old yardstick, cold pressurisation. I suggest you fit a new hose and refill/bleed as before. Then start the engine, organise a fast tickover and check for abnormal cooling system pressure while the engine's still warming up. I suggest this because your description of the hose burst sounds very dramatic for coolant at only 110C. That's little more than 15psi. It sounds over-pressurised, for after all the usual checks and tests, it's blown a hose. Exhaust gas pressurisation can explain all the observations and will need to be eliminated before the next move.

TC

1st December 2018, 11:38	#22
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	Frustratingly the IMG gasket I ordered a week last Friday hasn’t arrived so it looks like a delay till next weekend to get thermostat and IMG sorted in one go. Let’s hope it doesn’t rain too much next week on the bike! __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total).

3rd December 2018, 19:30	#23
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	In case Matt from DMGRS reads this could you please reply to my email query regarding my IMG order from the 23rd Nov, order #25247. Thanks. __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total).

4th December 2018, 20:20	#24
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	Still not received my IMG after almost 2 weeks and no communication from the seller so can someone tell me if there is a physical location I can go to near Coventry/Nuneaton that can sell me one? After a ride to work in freezing conditions this morning I’m about sick of the online delivery lottery and need to get my car back on the road this weekend. Many thanks. __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total).

8th December 2018, 15:34	#26
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	Apologies, this will no doubt become a long post...just changed thermostat and IMG. Car behaved much as before with rad remaining cold as temps rose past 110C. Decided to double check rad was clear so flushed and back flushed even though I’d done it a couple of months ago. Filled and bled again. Temp rose to north of 105C so left engine running and checked rad and bottom hose. Both cold. I remembered that when squeezing the top hose during bleeding that it had a longitudinal fault in it. I wondered if this could have collapsed internally and caused a blockage so I felt it and it promptly split spraying coolant at 100C+ into my face. Thank god for wearing glasses. Once the 10 ft high geyser had desisted I then had the joy of a forced car wash to remove the coolant from the paintwork (which in today’s wind had covered most of the car). I removed the top hose but it was clear inside. So what’s left? Water pump? 7 hours and I’m in a worse position than when I started. Car looks lovely and clean though 😂 __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total).

8th December 2018, 15:56	#27
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,345 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Blimey Steve, you were lucky not to have suffered serious burns when the hose split. Are you sure you're ok? If the bottom radiator hose is cold then there's still no flow through it which explains the high temperatures. Have you read MG Rover's refilling and bleeding procedure for the 1.8 engine? I seem to remember that there's a valve which should be checked. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

4th December 2018, 21:06	#25
rrobson I really should get out more....... 75 tourer cdti, MG ZS 180, nissan terrano & 1.8t rover 25 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pontefract Posts: 2,643 Thanks: 17 Thanked 295 Times in 218 Posts	You can get them from rimmers, about £3 more expensive but two or three days max for delivery. In fact you can pay for next day but it's expensive. I've had my v6 in bits and needed to order an oil pump gasket and another img because I only ordered one img from dmgrs so just got both from rimmers. I always order a good week in advance when buying from dmgrs, other places can have them at your door a lot quicker. __________________ How to view a car - everything you need to help you inspect a used car VIS motor tester avalible to local members Injector removal tool and auto gearbox pressure tester now available

8th December 2018, 15:58	#28
cb750chris Trader Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Portsmouth Posts: 849 Thanks: 201 Thanked 292 Times in 200 Posts	Hi Steve, If the rad is not getting hot, then that means that water is not circulating. The only reasons for this that I can think of is a stuck thermostat (which you have already changed), an airlock (you say you have bled the system properly) or a defective waterpump. If you haven't done so, it may be worth checking the water pump. It is very rare, but it is possible for the water pump to fail without leaking - the impeller stops rotating with the shaft. Chris __________________ Now offering T4 services in the Fareham area Replacement keys programmed / supplied / cut Diesel 135 upgrade available IPK virginisation and T4 matching available Sorry, due to a big change in home circumstances, I am unable to do any large jobs at present, but can still offer evening time diagnostics.

8th December 2018, 16:35	#30
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	Before stripping it down to the pump, check for the good old yardstick, cold pressurisation. I suggest you fit a new hose and refill/bleed as before. Then start the engine, organise a fast tickover and check for abnormal cooling system pressure while the engine's still warming up. I suggest this because your description of the hose burst sounds very dramatic for coolant at only 110C. That's little more than 15psi. It sounds over-pressurised, for after all the usual checks and tests, it's blown a hose. Exhaust gas pressurisation can explain all the observations and will need to be eliminated before the next move. TC