The dreaded temp gauge red light...

Steve1966 · 28th November 2018, 06:33

It's laughable really. 2 days after spending £400 to get the old girl through another MOT (rear upper arm & spring, and OSR sill welding) she decides to overheat for the first time in my 78,000 miles (7 years) of ownership. I'd put off sorting the IMG till the MOT was safely negotiated and only ordered the new gasket from DMGRS on Saturday. I top up the coolant weekly and this has always been frequent enough, but unless something else has failed (water pump?) then this time it wasn't. I fortunately noticed the heater had gone cold as I pulled into work. The gauge was at 11 o'clock at this point. I quickly parked as the red light came on. Coolant has been ejected from the cap but I'm hoping that as it was a quick excursion to superheated temperatures things may have survived. The fan ran on for a couple of minutes and the max temp on the OBD by the time I'd got it up on screen was 114 and dropping. Fingers crossed. On the plus side this head gasket has survived for 125,000 miles so it's done well.

Steve.

rrobson · 28th November 2018, 07:48

Should be ok, you'll have to keep your eye on it but it's a small lesson to keeping up with the engines maintenance and sorting asap.
I would fit a new cap now too as a precaution

SD1too · 28th November 2018, 07:56

Steve; begin by checking that your radiator fan slow speed works using the demist test.

Simon

Steve1966 · 28th November 2018, 08:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

Steve; begin by checking that your radiator fan slow speed works using the demist test.

Simon

Yes, it's all working fine. I checked it after I stopped and it had Jules' fan kit fitted in February. I've just added 1.5 litres and ran it up to temp but being at work I don't have any tools for bleeding etc. I have got good heat in the heater so there's no airlock in there. I shall squeeze some hoses at lunch and run it up to temp again and see if I can get some more water in. I drove 15 miles on the M6 without incident before the overheat so hopefully 1.5l is all it lost.

Steve1966 · 28th November 2018, 08:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrobson

Should be ok, you'll have to keep your eye on it but it's a small lesson to keeping up with the engines maintenance and sorting asap.
I would fit a new cap now too as a precaution

I don't disagree with you and have changed the IMG twice before but after 7 years I thought I had a close relationship with the old girl and knew her weekly needs..

clf · 28th November 2018, 09:57

If it's coming out of the cap, as said it could just be the cap failing. Or could it be as simple as the cap not tightened enough, since you saying that you top up regularly? I had this issue sending a cold shiver down my spine, when I got out of the car and smelled the smell of fear that is not coolant at the front of the car. I had checked it the day before, but consciously didn't tighten the cap as much as normal, as I felt I was crushing the o ring. Topped up and tightened, then all was good. I did replace the cap though.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

Steve1966 · 28th November 2018, 10:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by clf

If it's coming out of the cap, as said it could just be the cap failing. Or could it be as simple as the cap not tightened enough, since you saying that you top up regularly? I had this issue sending a cold shiver down my spine, when I got out of the car and smelled the smell of fear that is not coolant at the front of the car. I had checked it the day before, but consciously didn't tighten the cap as much as normal, as I felt I was crushing the o ring. Topped up and tightened, then all was good. I did replace the cap though.

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

As a conscientious K4 owner I have a spare cap in the boot (next to the bottle of water..). I'll go for a short drive first and if there is any evidence of over-heating I'll swap the cap. I'm keen to see if the lack of coolant was the cause in the first instance. Even after 7 years the cap seals still get contaminated with K-seal or similar (previous owner) so it may be time to change.

suzublu · 28th November 2018, 10:29

Fit a digital temp gauge, lifesaver

Steve1966 · 28th November 2018, 11:43

I've just been out for a run. Aircon and demist off to keep the fan idle. Normal running temp used to be a steady 90 but was cycling between 92-98 during normal driving. In traffic 98-102. Drove about 6 miles. I parked up and left idling. Low speed fan comes on at 105 but engine temp keeps increasing slowly. I switched off at 111. I'll check the level when it's cool but I'd say there's something amiss. Lazy thermostat? I may of course still have an air-lock. Reservoir cap was cold even when engine was 111. This may be normal after a short run?

EDIT: I've just checked the coolant level and it's fine. The cap seems to be holding pressure as no signs of fluid and a healthy hiss when I removed it (engine still warm). I may have to risk the journey home without understanding the issue.

SD1too · 28th November 2018, 16:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steve1966

Normal running temp used to be a steady 90 but was cycling between 92-98 during normal driving ... Low speed fan comes on at 105 but engine temp keeps increasing slowly. I switched off at 111.

Well done Steve, those are useful tests.
I doubt that the problem is anything to do with your head gasket. Is the bottom radiator hose (the one with the bleed screw) as hot as the top hose?

Simon

28th November 2018, 06:33	#1
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	The dreaded temp gauge red light... It's laughable really. 2 days after spending £400 to get the old girl through another MOT (rear upper arm & spring, and OSR sill welding) she decides to overheat for the first time in my 78,000 miles (7 years) of ownership. I'd put off sorting the IMG till the MOT was safely negotiated and only ordered the new gasket from DMGRS on Saturday. I top up the coolant weekly and this has always been frequent enough, but unless something else has failed (water pump?) then this time it wasn't. I fortunately noticed the heater had gone cold as I pulled into work. The gauge was at 11 o'clock at this point. I quickly parked as the red light came on. Coolant has been ejected from the cap but I'm hoping that as it was a quick excursion to superheated temperatures things may have survived. The fan ran on for a couple of minutes and the max temp on the OBD by the time I'd got it up on screen was 114 and dropping. Fingers crossed. On the plus side this head gasket has survived for 125,000 miles so it's done well. Steve. __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). Last edited by Steve1966; 28th November 2018 at 06:57..

28th November 2018, 07:48	#2
rrobson I really should get out more....... 75 tourer cdti, MG ZS 180, nissan terrano & 1.8t rover 25 Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Pontefract Posts: 2,643 Thanks: 17 Thanked 295 Times in 218 Posts	Should be ok, you'll have to keep your eye on it but it's a small lesson to keeping up with the engines maintenance and sorting asap. I would fit a new cap now too as a precaution __________________ How to view a car - everything you need to help you inspect a used car VIS motor tester avalible to local members Injector removal tool and auto gearbox pressure tester now available

28th November 2018, 07:56	#3
SD1too Doesn't do things by halves Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Former Middlesex Posts: 20,344 Thanks: 1,587 Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts	Steve; begin by checking that your radiator fan slow speed works using the demist test. Simon __________________ "Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce.

28th November 2018, 09:57	#6
clf This is my second home MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: carrick Posts: 7,859 Thanks: 3,494 Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts	If it's coming out of the cap, as said it could just be the cap failing. Or could it be as simple as the cap not tightened enough, since you saying that you top up regularly? I had this issue sending a cold shiver down my spine, when I got out of the car and smelled the smell of fear that is not coolant at the front of the car. I had checked it the day before, but consciously didn't tighten the cap as much as normal, as I felt I was crushing the o ring. Topped up and tightened, then all was good. I did replace the cap though. Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk __________________ It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver!

28th November 2018, 11:43	#9
Steve1966 Loves to post 2000 W Rover 75 Saloon 1.8 Man Club (SE) Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Warwickshire Posts: 436 Thanks: 66 Thanked 95 Times in 48 Posts	I've just been out for a run. Aircon and demist off to keep the fan idle. Normal running temp used to be a steady 90 but was cycling between 92-98 during normal driving. In traffic 98-102. Drove about 6 miles. I parked up and left idling. Low speed fan comes on at 105 but engine temp keeps increasing slowly. I switched off at 111. I'll check the level when it's cool but I'd say there's something amiss. Lazy thermostat? I may of course still have an air-lock. Reservoir cap was cold even when engine was 111. This may be normal after a short run? EDIT: I've just checked the coolant level and it's fine. The cap seems to be holding pressure as no signs of fluid and a healthy hiss when I removed it (engine still warm). I may have to risk the journey home without understanding the issue. __________________ Jobs Done since (Apr 2012): Spyhole, Thermostat, IMG (x2), Front ARB Drop links (x3 pairs), Rear Damper, Coils/HT Leads, Heater Matrix, Unions, 13x tyres, Gearbox Oil, Full Service (x3), Water pump & belts, LH/RH lower arm & bushes, Front/Rear pads/Discs, Fr door finishers, Track Rods, Jule's intake tube, Clutch, Slave, DMF (ouch), 1 1/2 exhausts, front springs/top mounts, Jule's Fan upgrade/condenser, reverse gear switch, OSR upper arm, spring, and sill welding. 78,000miles (175,600m total). Last edited by Steve1966; 28th November 2018 at 12:48..

28th November 2018, 10:29	#8
suzublu This is my second home rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: Seaton Carew Posts: 26,912 Thanks: 65 Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts	Fit a digital temp gauge, lifesaver