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5th March 2010, 08:50 | #111 |
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I´ve always done it with the engine turned off. Can´t see what the advantage would be trying to get your fingers caught and everything rocking up and down. First engine I ever did was a Triumph straight six out of an old Vitesse. 1600 cc. Family friends who had a garage showed me how to do it. And the valves etc, etc. Was told to do them warm, engine off, and then run the engine for 10 mins and then test them again. Renovated the engine and it ran very well afterwards (tin worm got it in the end)
Done quite a few Volvo motors, B4B, B16, B18 and B20 (all push rod) Would be fun to see someone do them with the engine running Still maybe as good as Colins fan belt change |
5th March 2010, 09:44 | #112 |
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The mechanic that used look after my 2.5 straight 6 Triumph engine, after setting the tappets would insert the feeler gauge with the engine running to determine which tappet was noisy if any, then shut down and reset it. He always set them with the engine up to temperature.
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5th March 2010, 10:39 | #113 |
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I was only 17 when I was taught so maybe they thought I would do myself a mischief if the engine was running. Anyway never had any probs doing it with the engine not runing. The tappets on the old Volvos are supposed to -tap-
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5th March 2010, 11:21 | #114 |
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5th March 2010, 11:27 | #115 |
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I need help urgently. Gearbox and diff oil grades for a marina, I can't find the info anywhere I keep being told different things.
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5th March 2010, 11:42 | #116 |
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Looked on owners club and seem to have found your post?? Doh!!
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5th March 2010, 11:47 | #117 |
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Should be in that book I gave you
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5th March 2010, 11:50 | #118 |
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They say different things.
Diesels, thanks mate I will have another see through that book but couldn't see. I put 20w50 in the box and have since been told that it should be ep90!
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5th March 2010, 11:54 | #119 |
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EP90 sounds a bit heavy for the g/box......could be though I'll see what I can find this end
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5th March 2010, 12:04 | #120 |
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