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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:07   #11
persuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post
You really really really want to run a new cable from the battery.

Like really really.
Yes you are correct that is the best way but mine has been done like that with the vibe fuse on for the last 6 months with no issues.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:08   #12
persuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mischief View Post
Apologies I read the first post wrong

I was told that an amp draws a lot of power so was best to go direct from the battery, but as persuer has posted you could use the towbar wire should be thick enough.
I have also ran a power cap in the boot to compensate for power usage.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:09   #13
GeraintUK
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depends on the power draw of the amp.

I always run 0 or 2 gauge wire direct from battery with fused connection.

Anything less than that and i'd not feel it completely safe to use in all honesty.
Just make sure all the feeds are run through grommets etc as cables can get snagged on sharp panels.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:10   #14
Supervinnie40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jakg View Post
You really really really want to run a new cable from the battery.

Like really really.
Because....?
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:10   #15
Mischief
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I have also ran a power cap in the boot to compensate for power usage.
I have always used a direct from battery install, but in saying that for some reason rover has made it IMPOSSIBLE (not that I haven't succeeded )to get through the firewall
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:13   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeraintUK View Post
depends on the power draw of the amp.

I always run 0 or 2 gauge wire direct from battery with fused connection.

Anything less than that and i'd not feel it completely safe to use in all honesty.
Just make sure all the feeds are run through grommets etc as cables can get snagged on sharp panels.
The amp uses a 30 amp fuse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mischief View Post
I have always used a direct from battery install, but in saying that for some reason rover has made it IMPOSSIBLE (not that I haven't succeeded )to get through the firewall
I read something about the grommet at the driversside, close to the plenum... ??
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:14   #17
persuer
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To be honest that is the way I powered it in my previous 75 but the only grommet i could find was drivers side so I had a cable running from nearside to offside in engine bay then ran it down the offside of the car to the boot.

do it the way YOU feel safe.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:17   #18
Mischief
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Supervinnie40 View Post
The amp uses a 30 amp fuse.



I read something about the grommet at the driversside, close to the plenum... ??
There is one behind the fusebox, I used that one to run the BBUS wires into the engine bay. It can be accessed behind the wing, I just removed the wheel arch liner.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:18   #19
persuer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mischief View Post
There is one behind the fusebox, I used that one to run the BBUS wires into the engine bay. It can be accessed behind the wing, I just removed the wheel arch liner.
Thanks for that John I think I will extend my amp power wire to engine bay now.
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Old 23rd January 2014, 21:20   #20
Mischief
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Quote:
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Thanks for that John I think I will extend my amp power wire to engine bay now.
No probs
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  • This vehicle was the 1st 75 1.8 T Club SE to be made out of 3,980
  • This vehicle was the 1st 75 in Celestial (Special Metallic) (code: IAI) to be made out of 19 Celestial (Special Metallic) 75s
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