front lower control arm/wishbone replacement

[Sheraton]

How'do folks

I received my new wishbones and bushes - thanks DMGRS

i'm hoping to get the car jacked up and replace these myself tomorrow

is there anything i should be aware of before i commence ?

i've had a look at the Haynes procedure and, i'm pretty familiar with the components - bolt location etc..


thought it worth asking if there are any pitfalls or tips that may be handy to know


Paul.

[EastPete]

Two possible main issues:

1. Access to the rear bush bolts (18mm) - these are usually quite tight, and may need a log spanner or two combo spanners hooked together to get them to shift. I unbolt the anti-roll bar bushes and move the ARB out of the way to get better access to the rear bush bolts - you can then get to them using a long breaker bar or ratchet bar with an 18mm socket onto the bolts.

2. Shifting the inner tapered ball joint of the arm that goes into the subframe. I have always managed to shift this using a large bearing puller or heavy duty ball joint splitter - there are other approaches that were discussed on here a few days ago, involving placing a hammer head between the arm and subframe, then using the downward force of the spring to break the taper joint.

The outer lower pinch joint where the arm goes into the bottom of the hub should not be too much of a problem, although sometimes the pinch bolt can seize. Try to soak everything before you start (ideally the day before) in penetrating fluid (plus gas or similar).

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Pete

[zony]

You will need a ball joint splitter for the joint in the middle of the boomerang. The rest is quite straightforward but fiddly in and out from under the car etc and tiny turns on those 2 18mm bolts. I didn't need to release ARB. You get to the rear bolt from under the car, the front bolt from inside the wheel arch.

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by zony

You will need a ball joint splitter for the joint in the middle of the boomerang. The rest is quite straightforward but fiddly in and out from under the car etc and tiny turns on those 2 18mm bolts. I didn't need to release ARB. You get to the rear bolt from under the car, the front bolt from inside the wheel arch.

Agreed you can get to the rear bush bolts without undoing the ARB, but I just find it gives a bit more space and makes things a little easier. Good point bout tiny turns on the 18mm bolts when they go back in- it is easy to cross thread them if you are not careful.
Pete

[roverbarmy]

I didn't release the ball joint or the ARB. Managed to do it all from underneath with the car on drive up ramps. I had to use a jack to take the weight off the wishbone slightly and ease the front wheel and shocker slightly forward to tap/wiggle the old bush off (clean, then lube the wishbone arm with washing up liquid before trying to move the bush). I used a pair of Mole grips to rotate the bush mounting slightly to get the mounting bracket and bolts back in alignment. A bit of blood, sweat and tears - job done!

[EastPete]

Originally Posted by roverbarmy

I didn't release the ball joint or the ARB. Managed to do it all from underneath with the car on drive up ramps. I had to use a jack to take the weight off the wishbone slightly and ease the front wheel and shocker slightly forward to tap/wiggle the old bush off (clean, then lube the wishbone arm with washing up liquid before trying to move the bush). I used a pair of Mole grips to rotate the bush mounting slightly to get the mounting bracket and bolts back in alignment. A bit of blood, sweat and tears - job done!

Mike - I think the OP is replacing the whole arm with bushes already in place on the arm, so will not need to remove/refit the rear bushes on the arm. Unless I have misunderstood !

Pete

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by EastPete

Agreed you can get to the rear bush bolts without undoing the ARB, but I just find it gives a bit more space and makes things a little easier. Good point bout tiny turns on the 18mm bolts when they go back in- it is easy to cross thread them if you are not careful.
Pete

A quick question here.---I keep seeing 18mm bolts mentioned.

I've got LOTS of spanners collected over the years but don't have and have never used an 18mm spanner.

So is everybody sure it's 18mm ??--( Is that the dimension across the flats on the head of the bolt please ? )

[Eddy600]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

A quick question here.---I keep seeing 18mm bolts mentioned.

I've got LOTS of spanners collected over the years but don't have and have never used an 18mm spanner.

So is everybody sure it's 18mm ??--( Is that the dimension across the flats on the head of the bolt please ? )

Most certainly is an 18mm spanner I recommend you get a flexi head ratchet spanner and a long 18mm aviation spanner.

[dattrike]

"Moog" to my mind is a Quality Brand - albeit Quality Analogue Synthesizers 😎 (a different company obviously)

Also an aerospace company in Tewkesbury (American owned) that I worked for for 20 years. They do aircraft control systems, and Formula 1 stuff amongst othwr things.