Technical advice please on v6 cambelt job . - Page 2

newcybrown · 31st March 2009, 18:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by workaholic_ro

Sorry to disagree but it's piece of cake. The only thing you are NOT allowed to is rotate the engine. It must be kept in the locking position until the job is done. The rear pulleys have marks and are easy to align as many times you want. The picture above is NOT the correct setting position, the camshafts are rotated by 180 degrees.

Hi Fidel so as long as you align the rear pulley marks the the cams will be in the correct timing position when re-fitting the front belt.

workaholic_ro · 31st March 2009, 18:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by newcybrown

Hi Fidel so as long as you align the rear pulley marks the the cams will be in the correct timing position when re-fitting the front belt.

100% correct!

...and this is a "how two" without the front locking tools:

Edit: do NOT do this with the rear pulleys locked. The camshafts are not designed to hold the tightening torque!

chris75 · 31st March 2009, 18:56

Thanks everyone . Knew I could rely on you all !
Just to sum up , the front hubs are keyed to the camshafts but the sprocket gears are clamped to the hub/shaft by the bolt ; opinions split on new bolts or old ,which is sort of what I expected. I might contact a bolt supplier I know just in case an alternative is available ???
Workaholic - I think , if I understand correctly , that the procedure of tightening to a low torque then a further angle is because the torque ensures the bolt is home and fully seated then the angle applies the stretch to the bolt . It could be possible to develop a torque reading with a corroded or damaged fitting without the bolt being fully tightened . The practice of not reusing them would assume that the bolt has been tightened to yield point , if they don't recover ? That's an explanation I have read , anyway

workaholic_ro · 31st March 2009, 19:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris75

Workaholic - I think , if I understand correctly , that the procedure of tightening to a low torque then a further angle is because the torque ensures the bolt is home and fully seated then the angle applies the stretch to the bolt . It could be possible to develop a torque reading with a corroded or damaged fitting without the bolt being fully tightened .

A much better explanation that I would be ever able to provide, or a translation from a poor English to a better one

I only have a small observation: the pulley is home and fully seated by the bolt.

Quote:

The practice of not reusing them would assume that the bolt has been tightened to yield point , if they don't recover ? That's an explanation I have read , anyway

I doubt that, the bolt looks pretty solid to me and the torque is in reasonable limits to keep it in the elastic range IMHO, but I can not be sure about that, I was not part of the design team

31st March 2009, 18:56	#13
chris75 same car since 2005 2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Ellesmere Port , Cheshire Posts: 3,811 Thanks: 379 Thanked 549 Times in 466 Posts	Thanks everyone . Knew I could rely on you all ! Just to sum up , the front hubs are keyed to the camshafts but the sprocket gears are clamped to the hub/shaft by the bolt ; opinions split on new bolts or old ,which is sort of what I expected. I might contact a bolt supplier I know just in case an alternative is available ??? Workaholic - I think , if I understand correctly , that the procedure of tightening to a low torque then a further angle is because the torque ensures the bolt is home and fully seated then the angle applies the stretch to the bolt . It could be possible to develop a torque reading with a corroded or damaged fitting without the bolt being fully tightened . The practice of not reusing them would assume that the bolt has been tightened to yield point , if they don't recover ? That's an explanation I have read , anyway __________________ Who said it was simples ?