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31st March 2009, 14:00 | #11 |
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I suspect you might want to read my post in this thread.
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...t=17139&page=2 |
31st March 2009, 14:57 | #12 |
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Excellent thank you very much I see exactly what you mean.
On reassembly so long as the arrow is within this 1/4 arc then the drive cog is in the correct position. Just had to take it off to have a look, I took it apart and removed the cog wheel then fitted it to my test box with everything else still in situe, the motor spun slowly due to low 9v battery, but when i depress one of the micro switches it stopped, I allowed it to run again and depressed the other switch nothing motor still runs. I presume the switches change the direction of the motor and as one of mine is obviously not working this isn't happening thus the vis motor is "dead". I refitted the cog so that the arrow was as far to one side of the 1/4 arc as possible this meant that once back on the manifold it holds the "butterfly" slightly open. Is this normal? I thought that the valve should be fully closed in it's rest position. Once again many thanks for your post you learn something new everyday and thanks for sharing that info. You sit down I'll get the beers in cheers MIKE |
31st March 2009, 16:14 | #13 |
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I don't think it matters, because the butterfly shaft is rectangular so the two components can only engage in two ways 180 degrees apart. I assume the electronics set the butterfly to the correct position on startup. As long as your arrow matches with the arc, the cam on the pinion gear will engage with the microswitches correctly
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31st March 2009, 17:14 | #14 |
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Hi Richard, well done on your venture into the unknown
Quite correct there is an ark on the body and the arrow simply needs to be in the ark on re assy. when you connect the VIS to the harness and turn the ign on it SHOULD reset to the correct position IE the butterfly ( balance ) should be open at approx 90deg. this is its rest position. As the shaft is as you have noted oblong it is impossible to fit it incorrectly . The power valve ( top one should reset so the peg is across to the drivers side at rest ( ign on). If you have any queries as to your VIS motors working, just PM JDC to gain access to the club tester. As an aside Russ and I have managed to locate 50 motors in USA and had them shipped to the UK. They are not a direct swap but Russ has managed to fit a couple, correct tourque rotation and pin outs (sort of). We also have the microswitches and relays now. Unfortunately the 40 pcb's we thought we had on order will not be arriving due to redundancies. ( These things cannot be helped and many thanks to the member involved for doing his utmost to supply these). Russ is searching new avenues to try to source these.
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31st March 2009, 17:59 | #15 |
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Guys the way I tested my balance motor ie one micro switch working and one not would this be my problem with this motor.
Am i right in thinking that when the actuator crosses the switch then it will reverse, when told to do so, until it crosses the other switch therefore creating an open and close operation. Now that I know that I have a switch down is it this that prevents the rotation back to this switch as the power is cut from the other and transfered to the broken one if you get what i mean. Therefore if I were to change my broken micro switch, knowing that all the other components seem ok, would this repair the balance vis? Just for the record I can here the power vis activate with the turn of the key to pos 2 and both internal motors operate the power valve ok. Finally I would like to thank you both for you time and continued help with this problem it is very much appreciated. MANY THANKS MIKE |
31st March 2009, 18:12 | #16 | |
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Quote:
I have screen printing equipment and collaborators with CNC to cut them to shape. Ferric chloride will do the rest.
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31st March 2009, 18:41 | #17 | |
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Quote:
The action you describe of he second switch doing nothing I have seen caused by three things 1. poor contacts on the microswitch 2. faulty relay 3. burnt out track on board/dry joint. Obviously the first two are replacement Items, the third fault you need to look at any thin points on the PCB tracks ( usually with a magnifying glass.) I you see a burnt out track you can trace back to the nearest solder joint either side of the break and solder a wire across. Must admit slow motor I have not come across where it works in one but not the other??? You will have a PM shortly
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31st March 2009, 19:05 | #18 |
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Basically this is how it works:
You may also be interested to take a look at this: http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthrea...15#post2845515
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31st March 2009, 19:17 | #19 | |
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All the best MIKE |
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