Body Control Unit question - Page 3

Greeners · 8th November 2007, 13:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by David3807

But does the BCU know this ?? Presume the washer bottle has a level sensor somewhere - is it working or connected ??

Just a thought

The sensor activates the icon in the dash, so the K-bus would then signal the BCU that it's low on water.

The K bus is linked on Header C0289, so there may be a strap missing on the header to link it to the BCU.

I get the feeling that the solution is a simple one.....It's just identifying it that the hard bit.

I'll keep looking

Raistlin · 8th November 2007, 13:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by David3807

But does the BCU know this ?? Presume the washer bottle has a level sensor somewhere - is it working or connected ??

Just a thought

Hmm - now that IS a thought.

Would there be an indication on the dashboard if the level was low though?

Greeners · 8th November 2007, 13:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raistlin

Hmm - now that IS a thought.

WOuld there be an indication on the dashboard if the level was low though?

Yep.....when it stats getting low it flashes on. Don't forget, it holds about a gallon, so most people top it up long before it gets empty.

Raistlin · 8th November 2007, 13:30

Quote:

Originally Posted by Greeners

I get the feeling that the solution is a simple one.....It's just identifying it that the hard bit.

I'll keep looking

Thanks David

Keith · 8th November 2007, 20:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kiwirover

Is it a hidden T4 thing?

NO!..........

Keith · 8th November 2007, 20:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raistlin

What, I wonder is 'programmed' wash wipe?

T4 option which means when you pull the stalk you get a squirt and X swipes across the screen i.e 3,4 or even none which is usefull in the freezing cold to prevent frozen jets causing grit damage on the screen

Kiwirover · 9th November 2007, 04:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith

NO!..........

Crikey Keith, I didn't even need the email to hear your reply

Greeners · 9th November 2007, 11:04

Paul

Back to the powerwash....(may be worth getting the 2 threads mergeed now)

Can you confirm what connections were made (electrically that is)

I assume the connector was there for the pump, but did you connect anything else up ?

Raistlin · 9th November 2007, 11:51

Nothing else seemed to need connecting David.

The appropriate fuses and relay are fitted.

A "siphon test" proves that the low level switch works.

Greeners · 9th November 2007, 13:12

paul

I've printed the diagram out and I'll run through it.

The live feed to the pump goes through one header behind the dash before going into the passenger fuse box.

There should be a 30A fuse in position 44 and the powerwash realy in position four. This fuse is for the power wash only.

I would suggest put a new fuse in (just in case) and swap the relay with a similar one to prove that they work.

If still no joy, drop the fuse box out (2 x 10mm nuts) and spin it over.

The connector top left, should be a black one, then a green then yellow.

The black one is C0582 which is the connector which links up the relay, BCU and pump.

It should be wired as follows.

Cavity 4 - White / Purple and is the feed from the BCU
Cavity 6 - Purple / Red live feed from fuse 44
Cavity 8 - Slate / Red switched side to pump
Cavity 10 - Purple / Red live feed from fuse 44

Now bearing in mind MGR had a habit of changing things around, yours should be very similar if not the same to above.

If that all checks out, if you pull the connector out and apply a 12v to cavity 8, then the pump should work. If it does good, if not then you're goung to have to get to the header behind the dash.

Cavity's 10 v& 6 should be live with the ignition on, if not check under the bonnet that the fuse box there has got link 3 fitted. It should do as it feeds other circuits.

If that checks out, then with a volt meter, check cavity 4, which is the feed from the BCU to the relay. I would expect this to be 0v at rest, and then 12v when you activate the washers. You may have to do it 5 times to cycle it round.

If that doesn't work then I'll take a day off work and come up and help you.

*******
Note
I'm making the assumption that you have a degree of compedence to do this, if not don't attempt it. This is advice given freely and as such acept no responsibilty for any damage that occurs as a result of it,

*******

9th November 2007, 11:04	#28
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Paul Back to the powerwash....(may be worth getting the 2 threads mergeed now) Can you confirm what connections were made (electrically that is) I assume the connector was there for the pump, but did you connect anything else up ? __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

9th November 2007, 13:12	#30
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	paul I've printed the diagram out and I'll run through it. The live feed to the pump goes through one header behind the dash before going into the passenger fuse box. There should be a 30A fuse in position 44 and the powerwash realy in position four. This fuse is for the power wash only. I would suggest put a new fuse in (just in case) and swap the relay with a similar one to prove that they work. If still no joy, drop the fuse box out (2 x 10mm nuts) and spin it over. The connector top left, should be a black one, then a green then yellow. The black one is C0582 which is the connector which links up the relay, BCU and pump. It should be wired as follows. Cavity 4 - White / Purple and is the feed from the BCU Cavity 6 - Purple / Red live feed from fuse 44 Cavity 8 - Slate / Red switched side to pump Cavity 10 - Purple / Red live feed from fuse 44 Now bearing in mind MGR had a habit of changing things around, yours should be very similar if not the same to above. If that all checks out, if you pull the connector out and apply a 12v to cavity 8, then the pump should work. If it does good, if not then you're goung to have to get to the header behind the dash. Cavity's 10 v& 6 should be live with the ignition on, if not check under the bonnet that the fuse box there has got link 3 fitted. It should do as it feeds other circuits. If that checks out, then with a volt meter, check cavity 4, which is the feed from the BCU to the relay. I would expect this to be 0v at rest, and then 12v when you activate the washers. You may have to do it 5 times to cycle it round. If that doesn't work then I'll take a day off work and come up and help you. ***** Note I'm making the assumption that you have a degree of compedence to do this, if not don't attempt it. This is advice given freely and as such acept no responsibilty for any damage that occurs as a result of it, *** __________________ David** Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

9th November 2007, 11:51	#29
Raistlin Banned 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Auto Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 8,450 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Nothing else seemed to need connecting David. The appropriate fuses and relay are fitted. A "siphon test" proves that the low level switch works.