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Old 10th December 2019, 09:30   #1
Robti
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Default Upper rear arm mot fail how hard to replace

Hi so got a failure today and usually try to do repairs my self but feeling my age now ,So how hard at the roadside would this be to do, failing that how long for a garage to do ?
Thanks
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Old 10th December 2019, 09:50   #2
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As long as the bolts at each end come out it really is not that hard a job.
If you have an anti roll bar the bolts that hold that in place can be a cow to get out because they seize in place but with the right tools.

15mm socket, short extension bar, 18mm socket a little deeper then some, trolley jack, axle stands, ramps, replacement clips to hold cables to arms, spanners which may need modifying for drop links if fitted, 10mm socket, 10mm bolt extractor if anti roll bar bolts seized, torque wrench, drift, hammer miedium size.
I'd replace anti roll bar bolts with ones with a bigger head if they are fitted

Not a job I would like to do at the road side let alone in winter.

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Old 10th December 2019, 10:14   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
As long as the bolts at each end come out it really is not that hard a job.
If you have an anti roll bar the bolts that hold that in place can be a cow to get out because they seize in place but with the right tools.

15mm socket, short extension bar, 18mm socket a little deeper then some, trolley jack, axle stands, ramps, replacement clips to hold cables to arms, spanners which may need modifying for drop links if fitted, 10mm socket, 10mm bolt extractor if anti roll bar bolts seized, torque wrench, drift, hammer miedium size.
I'd replace anti roll bar bolts with ones with a bigger head if they are fitted

Not a job I would like to do at the road side let alone in winter.

macafee2
Had both my top and bottom arms replaced after an advisory at last years MOT. It's not any easy job inside a warm garage. Be prepared to drop the back subframe, or even replace as the bolt access on the upper arms is difficult . You will require huge amounts of WD40 to free the nuts which are inside the subframe cavity. Rear arms will fail most of the Rover 75 range in time, if not watched for corrosion, for some it's too late for existing arms, which can look OK on the surface, but they corrode from the inside!
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Old 10th December 2019, 10:47   #4
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Had both my top and bottom arms replaced after an advisory at last years MOT. It's not any easy job inside a warm garage. Be prepared to drop the back subframe, or even replace as the bolt access on the upper arms is difficult . You will require huge amounts of WD40 to free the nuts which are inside the subframe cavity. Rear arms will fail most of the Rover 75 range in time, if not watched for corrosion, for some it's too late for existing arms, which can look OK on the surface, but they corrode from the inside!
do you mean "its not an easy job...." or "it is an easy job......"?

neither of my cars suffered from the captive nut problem but one suffered a seized bolt in the bush at the hub. I had to remove trailing arm and take it to a garage to have old one removed and new one inserted.

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Old 10th December 2019, 11:32   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robti View Post
Hi so got a failure today and usually try to do repairs my self but feeling my age now ,So how hard at the roadside would this be to do, failing that how long for a garage to do ?
Thanks
As a coincidence - I went to a yard yesterday to acquire a load of parts relating to your issue.
The bonus for me was that all cars that are in for stripping are elevated from the floor leaving excellent access to the underside. Despite this, I ended up removing the subframe leaving the trailing arms attached to the hub but removed the upper and lower arm bolts, anti roll bar bush clamps (Only 1 bolt snapped) and dragged the subframe clear from the underside after removing the 4 bolts and failsafe washers and exhaust silencer rubbers. The upper arm bolts were easily accessible from this stage as were the ARB drip links.
So it can be done if luck is on your side, there are horror stories connected with this job which can totally disable a vehicle until more £ is spent for more bits and bobs not to mention maybe needing a spare pair of hands with some of the work.
Like you, the repairs would take place on the roadside, for me this is not a roadside job, a driveway is better suited as is the summer time to perform such surgery.
Should you choose to undertake the work yourself, I would recommend copious doses of plusgas of equivalent to all reachable bolts a few days prior to starting.
If your unsure of the job or correct tools to do it safely, worth considering getting it done by reliable garage.
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Old 10th December 2019, 11:45   #6
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If I had to do it again, i do not think i would replace the subframe, but i would consider dropping the subframe. It adds about an hour to the total job, two maybe (I was lucky as all my bolts freed easily).

Test the inner bolts to the subframe. If they feel like they are releasing ok, just remove the arm. If they are stuck or stiff, there will be a good chance the captive nut will break free, which is when it becomes painful. So at that point I would drop the subframe and remove the arms on the ground. It is easier and controllable.

Getting someone to do it though, I cannot see it being overly expensive, 100-150? Which at this time of year with no time, to me would be worth it. When I did it, I had never done suspension work before, now I can say I have, for me it was about both experience and the ability to undercoat the bottom of the car.

Do not use regular wd 40. Only penetrating fluids, and soak for as long as possible.

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Old 10th December 2019, 12:27   #7
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Wow, some of these tales are a bit off-putting.
Going to start tomorrow on the front suspension lower arms.

Tried last week but couldn't get at the rear bolt of the bush housing.

Had to put it all back together again.-----

Then a friend said he had a pit I could use so Tomorrow it is.

Fingers crossed.
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Old 10th December 2019, 13:52   #8
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I had the same good news from my MOT man last week.

I'm currently trying to find someone to do it for me. I did renew the rear springs this summer and they weren't 'that' bad to do but now is not best time of year for laying out on the drive, plus I'm feeling my age too.

Rimmers stock the arms both OEM and pattern-
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001547

One the same subject, but slight thread hijack.

Advisory says
"pin or bush worn N/S Rear lower (front bush)"
"pin or bush worn O/S Rear lower (front bush)"


Referring to the image, can someone suggest where those bushes are?

[IMG][/IMG]

Are they just a single item or molded into one of the components?

Ta.

'scuse the 'jack

Alan
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Old 10th December 2019, 14:44   #9
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Originally Posted by clf View Post

Do not use regular wd 40. Only penetrating fluids, and soak for as long as possible.
This advice cannot be stressed strongly enough. The number of folks which use what is a moisture repellent is legion.

Use a good Penetrating Fluid. It may solve those difficult Nuts (.. .. ) problems but if they are too far corroded, heat can help.

My greatest fear when working on old cars, is sheering off or rounding the flats of a corroded or seized fastener.

On this subject. I use replacement Stainless Steel Exhaust Manifold Studs on my MGs and Rovers every time I need to remove those Manifold Nuts which are ALWAYS corrosion welded to their studs when I put the tools on them for the first time.. That is not all bad news as it means both come out as one.

Four years ago when I fitted an Elastomer CHG to a project 1.8T ZT-T with near or flush liners, that car now shows signs of Oil-Coolant Mix. No real surprise there. Then I fitted those Allen Key Studs and they were a joy to undo in their corrosion free condition four years later now I'm repairing that car. These images show those superior fasteners in place and a spare new set ready for the next project I work on. They are a perfect fit for both T and K Series Engines. Suits me sir..

Nice Brass Nuts... Do NOT over torque. Available for less that seven quid off ebay delivered to your door. :~



Proof positive the Elastomer CHG I fitted four years ago is damaged allowing Oil-Coolant Mix. :~



Poor Gasket :~



These now fitted to four of my own or family cars. Recommended particularly with the useful Allen Key Drive Facility :~







This CHG exercise ( at a very leisurely pace on various valid counts ) using Cylinder Liner Shims ( CLS )and an MLS CHG will be an interesting experiment. Some folks give a big thumbs up for these CLS whilst others send out warning signs.



We shall see.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cylinder Liner SHIM Task (8).jpg (38.8 KB, 123 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0004.JPG (113.3 KB, 118 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0007.JPG (102.5 KB, 120 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_0001.JPG (107.7 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg RESIZE Head Saver Shjim in place MG ZT LA03 KKM Ongoing 22nd May 2014 .JPG (105.9 KB, 119 views)
File Type: jpg RESIZE Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (24).JPG (61.0 KB, 116 views)
File Type: jpg RESIZE Cylinder Liner SHIM Task Day 2 (15).jpg (68.6 KB, 116 views)
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Last edited by MGJohn; 10th December 2019 at 15:02..
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Old 10th December 2019, 20:12   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan richard View Post
I had the same good news from my MOT man last week.

I'm currently trying to find someone to do it for me. I did renew the rear springs this summer and they weren't 'that' bad to do but now is not best time of year for laying out on the drive, plus I'm feeling my age too.

Rimmers stock the arms both OEM and pattern-
https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001547

One the same subject, but slight thread hijack.

Advisory says
"pin or bush worn N/S Rear lower (front bush)"
"pin or bush worn O/S Rear lower (front bush)"


Referring to the image, can someone suggest where those bushes are?

[IMG][/IMG]

Are they just a single item or molded into one of the components?

Ta.

'scuse the 'jack

Alan
Alan, your advisory relates to the front suspension lower arm rear bushes, nothing to do with the rear arms



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