Worn out flywheel? - Page 7

SD1too · 26th November 2019, 08:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Never thought it was possible for an engine to misfire if the gap is smaller ...

Neither did I. Car maintenance is full of surprises. It's unwise to theorise too deeply.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Will try tomorrow to increase the gap to 1mm, do you guys know a way to do this ...

My original factory-fitted sparking plugs were of the triple electrode design and so were the recommended NGK plugs with which I replaced them. I found that the gap didn't alter by any significant amount over the 60,000 miles interval specified by Rover for replacement (interestingly there is no requirement to check the gaps at all on the service check sheet).

Are the Champion plugs you've bought listed by the manufacturer for use with the KV6? Are they the triple electrode design? If the answer to either of these questions is no, I would take the necessary action.

Simon

Rsnail · 26th November 2019, 11:44

Yes, the plugs I bought were listed as compatible for use with the R75 2.0 V6, and they looked exactly like my original ones, I don't know what you mean with the triple electrode but anyways here are the ones I bought: Spark plugs

SD1too · 26th November 2019, 13:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

I don't know what you mean with the triple electrode ...

Just Google "NGK triple electrode sparking plugs" and you'll see.
The plugs you have bought are the conventional single electrode type. These are not the same as those specified and originally fitted at the factory. They will work, but I suspect that the gaps will need checking frequently and you don't want to be doing that on the RH bank do you?

The triple electrode type are long lasting and virtually maintenance free. As I said, when I inspected mine at 60,000 miles they were perfect. It's not a good idea to follow what Mr. Previous Owner did. Find out what should be there and act accordingly.

Simon

Rsnail · 26th November 2019, 15:49

Hmm that's interesting. Didn't know about that up until now. Thought that the ones fitted were still the original ones since there was the part nr printed on them. Will look into that too.

Rsnail · 27th November 2019, 17:37

Bingo! Problem solved. I think you remember I mentioned that I replaced the front 3 plugs, gave the car a run and everything was perfect, and after replacing the rear ones it was misfiring again. Well, turns out that the spark plug for number 2 was the culprit, today I thought well let's just put back the old plugs in the rear and see how it runs since it was fine before replacing those, and when doing so, found out that the new plug for cylinder 2 had the eletrodes practically touching eachother

I don't know how that could've happened, I guess I dropped the plug before fitting it and didn't notice that at all when inatalling it

Lesson learned atleast, always be careful with the smallest details haha. I guess sometimes the most basic and simple stuff turns out to be the solution in most cases.

As a note though, I still did the compression test and it revealed that the engine is still going strong, values between 145-150 psi for all cylinders. No vacuum leaks and fuel pressure is normal.

I couldn't wait to get my car back on the road again, a big thank you to EVERYBODY that contributed to solving this matter and helping me out in the process!

Next thing to look out for is how the tappets ticking will develop going further. After the oil flush it is noticeably better, about 70-80% gone I'd say, but still there, will see about that if it gets worse in the future

SD1too · 27th November 2019, 18:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

... found out that the new plug for cylinder 2 had the electrodes practically touching each other...

Well done. Remember my little story from earlier ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by SD1too

I recently had trouble starting my SD1 V8 from cold with terrible misfiring. I found the cause to be an incorrect plug gap on no.8. It was too small!

And the moral?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

I guess sometimes the most basic and simple stuff turns out to be the solution in most cases.

As for the hydraulic tappets, I'm very pleased to hear that the flushing oil made a significant difference.

Simon

Rsnail · 27th November 2019, 19:18

Well moral is everything that's too small is not pleasing at all ahahah. I am thinking about doing a flush again, but I'm not really sure it'a worth it, for the first flush, the flushing oil came out almost same color as it went it, I really was wondered how clean the engine was, not even a trace of gunk, I have to replace the oil anyway since I put in the cheapest oil I found until fixing the problem. I hope that now if the misfire is cured I will not get anymore fuel pushed inside the crankcase

SD1too · 27th November 2019, 19:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

... for the first flush, the flushing oil came out almost same colour as it went in ...

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

After the oil flush it is noticeably better, about 70-80% gone I'd say ...

It seems to have had some effect Gambalosi.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

I have to replace the oil anyway since I put in the cheapest oil I found ...

You don't. If the cheap oil meets the MGR spec., which dates back nearly twenty years so it is bound to, then it will be fine. In my view and experience, it's the frequency of oil changes that keeps engines in good condition, not the price.

Simon

Number 6 · 27th November 2019, 19:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rsnail

Well moral is everything that's too small is not pleasing at all ahahah. I am thinking about doing a flush again, but I'm not really sure it'a worth it, for the first flush, the flushing oil came out almost same color as it went it, I really was wondered how clean the engine was, not even a trace of gunk, I have to replace the oil anyway since I put in the cheapest oil I found until fixing the problem. I hope that now if the misfire is cured I will not get anymore fuel pushed inside the crankcase

I had the same problem with a "New Mini" It took 3 flushes to get the hydraulic tappets to quieten down. And also the correct spec oil which is most important.

Rsnail · 27th November 2019, 20:17

Then I guess I'll do another flush when I have some spare time, I know that every oil will be good as long as it meets the specs but I've always run the car with Motul 6100 10w40 and I intend to stay with that.

27th November 2019, 19:18	#67
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Well moral is everything that's too small is not pleasing at all ahahah. I am thinking about doing a flush again, but I'm not really sure it'a worth it, for the first flush, the flushing oil came out almost same color as it went it, I really was wondered how clean the engine was, not even a trace of gunk, I have to replace the oil anyway since I put in the cheapest oil I found until fixing the problem. I hope that now if the misfire is cured I will not get anymore fuel pushed inside the crankcase Last edited by Rsnail; 27th November 2019 at 19:22..

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26th November 2019, 11:44	#62
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Yes, the plugs I bought were listed as compatible for use with the R75 2.0 V6, and they looked exactly like my original ones, I don't know what you mean with the triple electrode but anyways here are the ones I bought: Spark plugs

26th November 2019, 15:49	#64
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Hmm that's interesting. Didn't know about that up until now. Thought that the ones fitted were still the original ones since there was the part nr printed on them. Will look into that too.

27th November 2019, 17:37	#65
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Bingo! Problem solved. I think you remember I mentioned that I replaced the front 3 plugs, gave the car a run and everything was perfect, and after replacing the rear ones it was misfiring again. Well, turns out that the spark plug for number 2 was the culprit, today I thought well let's just put back the old plugs in the rear and see how it runs since it was fine before replacing those, and when doing so, found out that the new plug for cylinder 2 had the eletrodes practically touching eachother I don't know how that could've happened, I guess I dropped the plug before fitting it and didn't notice that at all when inatalling it Lesson learned atleast, always be careful with the smallest details haha. I guess sometimes the most basic and simple stuff turns out to be the solution in most cases. As a note though, I still did the compression test and it revealed that the engine is still going strong, values between 145-150 psi for all cylinders. No vacuum leaks and fuel pressure is normal. I couldn't wait to get my car back on the road again, a big thank you to EVERYBODY that contributed to solving this matter and helping me out in the process! Next thing to look out for is how the tappets ticking will develop going further. After the oil flush it is noticeably better, about 70-80% gone I'd say, but still there, will see about that if it gets worse in the future

27th November 2019, 20:17	#70
Rsnail Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: May 2015 Location: Essen (Oldenburg), Germany Posts: 626 Thanks: 59 Thanked 30 Times in 28 Posts	Then I guess I'll do another flush when I have some spare time, I know that every oil will be good as long as it meets the specs but I've always run the car with Motul 6100 10w40 and I intend to stay with that.