Battery coding. - Page 2

Kevin Williams · 29th October 2020, 15:10

My neighbour bought a new Fiesta Mk 8 [1.2 litre, 3 cyl turbo] just over 3 years ago. I don't know why as she ran a very reliable Toyota Yaris which she'd had from new and had less than 30k on the clock.

She couldn't easily adapt to the electronic messages on the car and when the alarm went off randomly and then the battery started running down, the local dealer advised "she wasn't using it enough", "take a few long journeys" and to drive it "like a racing car". The battery still kept running down despite recharging. Then the supplying dealer shut down and got the same messages from the next nearest main dealer. In the end, she part exchanged the Fiesta as it needed a new cat for MOT and bought a new VW Golf last month, which has 3 screens to interrogate while you drive, and has error messages coming up like "needs a service", needs "winter tyres" etc. The dealer has already been out twice to it to try and match the car to her phone [or v.v.?] and reset settings. She's just gone on a pre-planned short break with her husband in his 2008 Fiesta instead of the new Golf!

Goodness knows what these vehicles will be like when 6/7 years old, let alone the current ages of our 75s and ZTs, but probably scrapped? On a similar note, called in to see a friend at work who was doing a first MOT on a 3 year old BMW. OK, but failed as the floors were breaking up! [BMW has just done a recall on that model!]

BTW, the old Yaris was sold within 2 days to a lady around the corner who is delighted with it....

coab · 29th October 2020, 15:18

I code batteries all the time for customers. What its about is the car compensates for the age of the battery as it gets older, thus increasing the charge rate etc. If you fit a new battery and do not tell the car a new one has been fitted it will continue to over compensate on the new battery and shortening the life of it.
In reality I have never come across a problem with people who I know who have changed the battery and not coded the car.

tourer · 29th October 2020, 18:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by coab

I code batteries all the time for customers. What its about is the car compensates for the age of the battery as it gets older, thus increasing the charge rate etc. If you fit a new battery and do not tell the car a new one has been fitted it will continue to over compensate on the new battery and shortening the life of it.
In reality I have never come across a problem with people who I know who have changed the battery and not coded the car.

I did wonder why, if the car is clever enough to know the battery is ageing and automatically increase the charge, then why isn't it clever enough to realise a new battery doesn't need the same level of charge and gradually decrease it?

c-j2 · 29th October 2020, 18:57

Interesting thread.

Anyone know if a Ford Mondeo late mk4 (2014 mk4.5) 1.6 diesel with an EFB battery needs coding? And if so, how?!

AndyN01 · 29th October 2020, 20:00

All far too clever for it's own good IMHO.

Just because you can doesn't mean you have to

.

As for what happens when they get a few years old expect lots and lots of "uneconomical to repair" so go and spend lots more ££££'s on new one.

And repeat......

mh007 · 30th October 2020, 09:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by c-j2

Interesting thread.

Anyone know if a Ford Mondeo late mk4 (2014 mk4.5) 1.6 diesel with an EFB battery needs coding? And if so, how?!

1. Turn the ignition on (you need to do the next steps within 10 seconds)

2. Press the rear fog lamp switch 5 times

3. Press the hazard switch 3 times

4. After a short time, the battery symbol will flash on the dash 3 times.

That should do the trick!

c-j2 · 30th October 2020, 10:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by mh007

1. Turn the ignition on (you need to do the next steps within 10 seconds)

2. Press the rear fog lamp switch 5 times

3. Press the hazard switch 3 times

4. After a short time, the battery symbol will flash on the dash 3 times.

That should do the trick!

Many thanks for posting that - much appreciated.
I will try when I am back home.

BRG75 · 30th October 2020, 11:31

Probably 10 or more years ago, a mechanic friend told me that “you need special jump leads on many modern cars these days”. He was known as a practical joker.

As it turned out, such jump lead sets were, and still are, on the market.

The debate on how, or if, they work; appears to still be going on today.

In consequence of this, I read the OP’s paragraph about coding a battery to modern cars, with a knowing smile on my face.

As subsequent posts appeared, I thought that I might add to the humour.
Being curious however, I did a little research first.

In post number 16 you do not have to do the switch sequence within 10 seconds; my understanding now is that you must wait for 10 seconds before performing the switch sequence.

For a fully detailed write up on the subject as a whole, and I think it is synchronising the battery charge cycles, rather than coding (as such) I would suggest visiting the VARTA battery web site.

If I was now told that the festoon interior light bulb in many 50’s and 60’s cars were only intermittent because they are polarity conscious, I would accept it.

Mike

clf · 30th October 2020, 12:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by bl52krz

I never thought I would see the time when the driver would have to be coded to the car. Not long to wait now lads. And don’t forget, you will have to have a special code for all your passengers. How stupid can life get, and complicated. Wonder if it’s anything to do with MONEY?

Does this not happen already with fiskers and teslas, albeit not critical to.the car driving.

There will be anti theft functions relating to finger print or face recognition, or even basic bluetooth phone recognition in the future.

In theory a good thing,u til either it goes wrong,or people are murdered for access!

Sent from my SM-A600FN using Tapatalk

tourer · 30th October 2020, 12:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by mh007

1. Turn the ignition on (you need to do the next steps within 10 seconds)

2. Press the rear fog lamp switch 5 times

3. Press the hazard switch 3 times

4. After a short time, the battery symbol will flash on the dash 3 times.

That should do the trick!

Hi again, Mike.
Those are the instructions given to me by the expert at Car Mechanics magazine to code our Mk8 Fiesta.
They didn't work on our car, but as you know, the instructions you gave me did work.
They are obviously different for each model.
But, where on earth do you obtain this knowledge?
Are they trade only secrets, or do you have to subscribe to Autodata or similar?
Thanks again for your help.

29th October 2020, 20:00	#15
AndyN01 This is my second home Toyota RAV4 Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Tamworth Posts: 3,070 Thanks: 2,478 Thanked 1,579 Times in 968 Posts	All far too clever for it's own good IMHO. Just because you can doesn't mean you have to . As for what happens when they get a few years old expect lots and lots of "uneconomical to repair" so go and spend lots more ££££'s on new one. And repeat...... __________________ Andy. http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

30th October 2020, 11:31	#18
BRG75 Gets stuck in Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer, 9th & 10th Rovers Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Sevenoaks Posts: 973 Thanks: 670 Thanked 290 Times in 195 Posts	Probably 10 or more years ago, a mechanic friend told me that “you need special jump leads on many modern cars these days”. He was known as a practical joker. As it turned out, such jump lead sets were, and still are, on the market. The debate on how, or if, they work; appears to still be going on today. In consequence of this, I read the OP’s paragraph about coding a battery to modern cars, with a knowing smile on my face. As subsequent posts appeared, I thought that I might add to the humour. Being curious however, I did a little research first. In post number 16 you do not have to do the switch sequence within 10 seconds; my understanding now is that you must wait for 10 seconds before performing the switch sequence. For a fully detailed write up on the subject as a whole, and I think it is synchronising the battery charge cycles, rather than coding (as such) I would suggest visiting the VARTA battery web site. If I was now told that the festoon interior light bulb in many 50’s and 60’s cars were only intermittent because they are polarity conscious, I would accept it. Mike __________________ Presently 2004 75 CDTi auto Connoisseur Tourer - White Gold 2001 75 2.5 auto Connoisseur Saloon - White Gold Previously 2002 75 1.8 auto Club SE, 2000 75 1.8 auto Classic SE (Company Car) 1997 420 (Company Car) 1996 216 cabriolet, 198? 213 VDP 1986 SD1 V8 VDP, 1968 2000TC, 1966 2000. Last edited by BRG75; 30th October 2020 at 12:21.. Reason: clarification

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29th October 2020, 15:10	#11
Kevin Williams Loves to post Rover 75 CDT Tourer [116 bhp] in Wedgwood Blue / MG ZT CDTi [131bhp] in Anthracite Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Matlock Posts: 330 Thanks: 106 Thanked 66 Times in 52 Posts	My neighbour bought a new Fiesta Mk 8 [1.2 litre, 3 cyl turbo] just over 3 years ago. I don't know why as she ran a very reliable Toyota Yaris which she'd had from new and had less than 30k on the clock. She couldn't easily adapt to the electronic messages on the car and when the alarm went off randomly and then the battery started running down, the local dealer advised "she wasn't using it enough", "take a few long journeys" and to drive it "like a racing car". The battery still kept running down despite recharging. Then the supplying dealer shut down and got the same messages from the next nearest main dealer. In the end, she part exchanged the Fiesta as it needed a new cat for MOT and bought a new VW Golf last month, which has 3 screens to interrogate while you drive, and has error messages coming up like "needs a service", needs "winter tyres" etc. The dealer has already been out twice to it to try and match the car to her phone [or v.v.?] and reset settings. She's just gone on a pre-planned short break with her husband in his 2008 Fiesta instead of the new Golf! Goodness knows what these vehicles will be like when 6/7 years old, let alone the current ages of our 75s and ZTs, but probably scrapped? On a similar note, called in to see a friend at work who was doing a first MOT on a 3 year old BMW. OK, but failed as the floors were breaking up! [BMW has just done a recall on that model!] BTW, the old Yaris was sold within 2 days to a lady around the corner who is delighted with it....

29th October 2020, 15:18	#12
coab This is my second home 2007 57 GOLF GTi EDITION 30 DSG Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Newport Shropshire and Coventry. Posts: 5,137 Thanks: 2,424 Thanked 1,452 Times in 852 Posts	I code batteries all the time for customers. What its about is the car compensates for the age of the battery as it gets older, thus increasing the charge rate etc. If you fit a new battery and do not tell the car a new one has been fitted it will continue to over compensate on the new battery and shortening the life of it. In reality I have never come across a problem with people who I know who have changed the battery and not coded the car.

29th October 2020, 18:57	#14
c-j2 Regular poster MG ZT-T Diesel Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Oxford Posts: 78 Thanks: 13 Thanked 11 Times in 11 Posts	Interesting thread. Anyone know if a Ford Mondeo late mk4 (2014 mk4.5) 1.6 diesel with an EFB battery needs coding? And if so, how?!