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26th May 2018, 21:03 | #8201 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Connie Tourer & Connie SE Saloon & Club SE Tourer Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Leeds
Posts: 977
Thanks: 199
Thanked 71 Times in 59 Posts
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Used my pscan to find out why the ABS light is always on.
Fitted a complete set of handbrake shoes and fittings from DMGRS which has resulted in the handbrake needing two clicks of the handle to lock the wheels - that's one Mot failure point fixed! On the other 75, changed the oil and filter which should have been done 15000 miles ago according to the info on the panel, but it's only done 5000 since I've owned it. |
26th May 2018, 21:11 | #8202 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 11,407
Thanks: 6,587
Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts
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It was watching me put some carrot seeds in,two lines so I can see better in the dark. A line of beetroot and some radishes. Along with some cabbages and cauliflower seeds. Oh and my wife put some onions in.
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Great Barr, Birmingham. |
26th May 2018, 21:20 | #8203 |
Posted a thing or two
MG ZT number 1 of 25 celestial!! Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Banbury
Posts: 1,967
Thanks: 208
Thanked 242 Times in 166 Posts
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Spent some time sorting a few little jobs on the celestial zt today. Fit an auto dimming mirror, what a fiddly job to get to the wires at the bottom of the a pillar! Also replaced a cracked front indicator lens, and the headlight washer pump that had rusted and split. Also gave it a good wash and wax, and now it's all ready to get booked in for its MOT!
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26th May 2018, 21:50 | #8204 |
This is my second home
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,428
Thanks: 3,123
Thanked 3,170 Times in 2,096 Posts
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Drove it hard today to clear the cobwebs in preparation for the MOT - mid July but will submit her mid June. Passed ok last year despite a previous advisory for a leaking steaming rack - the more I look the more I think it is the hoses into the reservoir that is the main issue.
Put in a new battery mid week and wow! This has made a difference to starting - the new battery throws the engine over where I always felt I was coaxing it before. Plan to change front drop links this week and give her a full service. |
26th May 2018, 22:04 | #8205 |
Regular poster
Rover 75 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: a
Posts: 84
Thanks: 49
Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts
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Changed the rear discs and pads. It was a bit of a pain compared to the fronts. Had to buy a 13mm socket with a universal joint so I could get access to the retaining bolts so I could undo them and torque them back up. The hand brake is really good now too
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26th May 2018, 23:22 | #8206 |
Posted a thing or two
zt saloon turbo Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tipton
Posts: 1,461
Thanks: 1
Thanked 167 Times in 132 Posts
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Fitted the white clip with new o ring on the fuel filter and polished headlights on missus x5.😀
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27th May 2018, 11:02 | #8207 | |
Posted a thing or two
zt saloon turbo Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Tipton
Posts: 1,461
Thanks: 1
Thanked 167 Times in 132 Posts
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Quote:
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27th May 2018, 12:22 | #8208 |
I really should get out more.......
MG ZT 180+ auto Join Date: May 2016
Location: Ilkeston, Derbys
Posts: 2,743
Thanks: 285
Thanked 1,128 Times in 504 Posts
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I've replaced the scuttle clips on the V6 in an attempt to stop my leak. Hit it with the hose pipe after for awhile, so far so good, but I'm not allowing myself to believe its cured until its rained some more lol!
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27th May 2018, 23:22 | #8209 |
Regular poster
Rover 75 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: a
Posts: 84
Thanks: 49
Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts
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Had a bit of a nightmare today.
I'd bought a spare inlet manifold and egr and cleaned them out last week ready for fitting today. Took the old ones off and fitted the clean ones. Connected all the other bits first before torqueing up. Almost on the last bolt then crack, with less than 10nm a bolt snapped Took it all of and replaced the bolt with one from the old manifold. Torqueing up again, very carefully, and another snapped. Hmmm, I swapped all the bolts from the old to the new and started reassembly. I was holding the short extension with socket attached, to take up the slack on the bolts. THEN THE FUN STOPPED. I dropped the extension bar down into the engine bay I couldn't see it. I couldn't feel it. Needed to get it out as I didn't want it falling between a belt and a pulley at 70mph. After much searching I ended up taking off the bumper, undertray and front wheel. After a very very long time had passed with me looking and feeling everywhere in the engine compartment from above and below I managed to locate it with one of those mirrors on a stick. I found it hidden down here. Now just needed to get it out. After using many implements, I finally managed, after many more hours had passed, to get it out using a stiffish piece of wire and looking at the mirror. It was quite an emotional moment. I started before 9am, no lunch and finished just before 7pm, Yes really. And I still haven't put the bumper back on. Last edited by Southcoast; 28th May 2018 at 22:47.. |
31st May 2018, 19:01 | #8210 |
Regular poster
Rover 75 Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: a
Posts: 84
Thanks: 49
Thanked 20 Times in 16 Posts
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Finally got around to doing the hydramount today.
Moving the aircon pipes out the way first was straightforward apart from the small bracket down by the bulkhead. Difficult to squeeze your hand down there and not drop the bolt. Undid all the mounting bolts after jacking up the engine only to find the power steering pipe was tight over the casting attached to the mount. Lots of up and down with the jack and rocking of the engine freed up enough space. Then to remove the mount. I didn't have the special tool but I do have a lump hammer and chisel (well it's a broken crow bar). Started giving it lots of whacks but no movement. OK now some bigger whacks. Then the castellations started to difform . Well there was no going back. It was either coming off or staying on for good. After lots of WD40 there was some movement and the mount came off. Here's the damage. Comparing the two the new one seemed softer and more flexible, the rubber on the old one was harder. Reassembly was only held up when you have to get the casting realigned with the engine block. Lots of up and down and rocking of the engine got it lined up. All back on and no bolts left over I started the engine, still on the ramps and I could notice immediately that it was smoother in the cabin and the steering wheel was not doing it's usual judder. So worth it in the end. I am kicking myself a little in not having bought the lower engine mount (£30) and doing it all together, as it was already half off. Although I did manage to get the mount off using the lump hammer I'd recommend borrowing the special tool if you can. Last edited by Southcoast; 31st May 2018 at 19:05.. |
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