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3rd January 2011, 17:00 | #1 |
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water noise !!!
i fitted a new thermostat just before xmas, bled the system and every thing seems fine, all hoses getting hot, heater working ok, no loss of water, but when im parked and i raze the rev's to about 2000 rpm i can here water gushing round the heater matrix ? (its a 1.8 by the way). am i just getting paranoid ?
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3rd January 2011, 17:56 | #2 | |
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3rd January 2011, 18:01 | #3 |
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thats what i was thinking, but no matter how many times i bled it i dont get any air out !!!! thank god my bikes got an air cooled engine
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3rd January 2011, 18:07 | #4 |
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You might need to create some sort of vacuum in the header tank, to get the air bubbles to expand and flow out. Not sure how you would achieve that, but I had an idea to try an aqua-vac nozzle sealed onto the filler.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
3rd January 2011, 18:37 | #5 |
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only way to do it is to keep bleeding ,when i got mine i could hear the water gurgl ,not knowing about the 75 then i thought it was normal ,,2 weekslater the ytop hose burst .. i had it bleed in so called rover specalists and then the bottom hose went lol.. so i decided to let my guys do it with me we bleed it this way ,run the car make sure loads of coolant is in the header take then put hearter on full then bleed ,top up bleed again, top up bleed again ,when the coolant has a steady flow coming from the bleed valve lock it up turn off heater then bleed again this time just a quick bleed ,then replace cap wait to see when fan comes on and keep an eye the temp gauge .. if fan comes on and the gauge is just sitting at 9 o/clock take the car for a spin to put it under load .make sure that all pipes are hot and can squeeze then about half inch.by the way when bleedig check all hoses are hot before taking car for drive is not bleed again .. make sure that the smaller ones to the matrix are hot too,,takes time ut your get there in the end .. sometimes i blow in the header tank long and hard ..
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3rd January 2011, 20:37 | #6 | |
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3rd January 2011, 20:42 | #7 |
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I did a how too on something irellivant to this topic but tagged onto the end was a simple way to do a vac fill, admittedly on a V6 but should make no difference, if you have a vac pump it would help.
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3rd January 2011, 20:48 | #8 |
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When bleeding the system, does it matter if the heater is on hot? Is there a valve that controls the flow of water to the matrix, like the old Mini?
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3rd January 2011, 21:09 | #9 |
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i wish i had a vac pump Phil but working in a lawnmower shop we have no need for one !!!!!!
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3rd January 2011, 21:14 | #10 | |
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There was a trick of only filling the header tank with the car on as steep an uphill slope as you could find, to avoid airlocks - which worked on my last car. I wonder if that might help with the 75?
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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