jacking up the front of the car

[monty1]

so today i needed the car on stands, thought i give the centre lift a bash, handbrake on and wheels chocked and it was a doddle, 3 minutes and it was on axle stands.

just for info the jack is a quick lift 2.5 tonne these are for 4x4's but work great on all cars

[trikey]

That's the best way, keep jacks away from sills!!!

[monty1]

it is mate, can this be done on the back

[trikey]

Originally Posted by monty1

it is mate, can this be done on the back

Yep, use the 'loop' in the centre underneath the rear bumper, a little more tricky and it doesn't lift it as high, but still works well.

[planenut]

Ah, the good old block paving, with any jack one needs to make sure that weight is evenly spread; personally I use a board under the jack if on anything other than concrete.

I use a block of wood on top of the jack when lifting the rear of the car to give it a bit of extra height.

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by monty1

so today i needed the car on stands, thought i give the centre lift a bash, handbrake on and wheels chocked and it was a doddle, 3 minutes and it was on axle stands.

just for info the jack is a quick lift 2.5 tonne these are for 4x4's but work great on all cars

Wheel Chocked. Great idea. Personally I don't completely trust the hand brake on these cars.---

[Mike Noc]

I have a pair of aluminium spreader plates for going under the trolley jack wheels on block paved drives - they allow the jack to move freely and not get caught in the gaps between the bricks as the car lifts.

Also, if using the central rear jacking point, make sure the keys are out of the ignition and the steering is locked to prevent any risk of the car slewing off the jack.

[T-Cut]

It gives me the willies lifting the front/rear high enough to insert axle stands, especially using a 'domestic' jack. I just won't do it, but there you go. The front/rear centre spots are suggested, but they're clearly not designed for locating a jack. Why didn't they put some sort of jacking pad there? Using the rear towing eye seems barmy to me. It's why I started this thread: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=35051

TC

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

It gives me the willies lifting the front/rear high enough to insert axle stands, especially using a 'domestic' jack. I just won't do it, but there you go. The front/rear centre spots are suggested, but they're clearly not designed for locating a jack. Why didn't they put some sort of jacking pad there? Using the rear towing eye seems barmy to me. It's why I started this thread: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=35051

TC

You've said this before, but still ignore the fact that these locations are in the Rover handbook as the main jacking points. An hydraulic trolley jack with adequate lift height and load capacity should always be used along with wheel chocks. Once jacked stands should be placed under the sill jacking points and the car carefully lowered onto them evenly.

I'm not the the only one to lift the car like this time after time without issue.

The 4 sill jacking points can be used for jacking a single corner of the car using any jack including the emergency kit jack but only for the purpose of changing a wheel, and shouldn't be jacked any higher than necessary to accomplish that: especially if using a scissor jack.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by Avulon

You've said this before, but still ignore the fact that these locations are in the Rover handbook as the main jacking points..

I don't ignore the Handbook, far from it. I'm simply saying it gives me the willies lifting 1,000Kg so high perched on a domestic jack. I'd also prefer a well designed jacking pad. But if you and everyone else is happy that's fine by me.

TC