Car jump starting..earth point?

75driver · 6th November 2018, 20:48

Just a general query.
If you are getting your car jump started, from another vehicle, what do you connect the negative lead to (on your car) as an earth point?
I have connected to the negative battery terminal many years ago, but now understand you’re not meant to.
Is the top of the strut a suitable point?

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trikey · 6th November 2018, 20:58

I have always used the earth clamp on the battery with no ill effects.

roverbarmy · 6th November 2018, 21:28

https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/c...p-start-a-car/

Not earthing via the battery post lessens the chance of a spark where the battery may have been gassing off. I've seen the top blown off a battery by this very problem. The mechanic ended up covered in battery acid. Luckily he was near a hose pipe and rinsed his exposed skin. His overalls literally dropped off him in shreds over the course of the next few minutes!

T-Cut · 6th November 2018, 22:00

I wouldn't have thought a flat battery would be emitting any hydrogen.

TC

bl52krz · 6th November 2018, 22:19

Uncharged is no problem, it’s the charging that creates the hydrogen gas. When I was at work, I told the clever mechanic that taking the lead of the battery while it is charging was very dangerous. Mind your own business I was told. Heard a loud bang one afternoon in the garage, and guess what had happened? Hospital job for burns to his face, which had just missed his eyes. Notice was then put up explaining how to charge a battery. Can not say I did not laugh about it.

75driver · 6th November 2018, 23:17

All replies appreciated, and perhaps emphasises the wrong way to do it is via the negative terminal on the battery.
But still begs the question....
Where is the most appropriate earth point on a 75 / zt?
Heavens forbid we would have to clamp a super strong toothed clamped jump lead onto the side wing😱😱😱

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Arctic · 7th November 2018, 00:39

Hi Sean.
a good point is the top hydra mount bracket as shown in the photo's below with yellow dots, also the slam panel would work.

1

2

Les4048 · 7th November 2018, 04:25

Any steel point on the engine or body not isolated by a rubber bush and not any alloy part either

coab · 7th November 2018, 05:21

I went to a lady who had a flat battery. Numerous people failed to start her car (Fiat 500). I came along and used the engine bracket as an earth and within 2 mins she was off and running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEORNtpujJw

AndyN01 · 7th November 2018, 07:28

Perhaps a step by step guide is what's needed?

Here's one from the AA

https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cove...ing-jump-leads

A step-by-step guide

Find someone with a car who’s happy to help. Their car must have a fully charged battery with the same voltage as yours (usually 12 volts)
Park both cars so their batteries are within easy reach of one another (without the cars actually touching). Keep the handbrakes on and the ignitions off
Use the red jump lead to connect the working battery’s positive (+) terminal to the flat battery’s positive (+) terminal
Take the black jump lead and attach it to the negative (-) terminal on the working battery. Then attach the other end to an earthing point (unpainted metal on the engine block or chassis) well away from the flat battery and fuel system
Keep both engines off and wait for three minutes, then start the working car’s engine and let it run for a minute
Start your car
Leave both cars to idle, at a fast pace, for around 10 minutes
Turn off both cars’ engines and carefully disconnect the leads in the reverse order to the way they were connected (i.e. remove the black lead from your car first and finish with the red lead from the other car). Make sure the leads don’t touch one another, or either car, as you remove them
Restart your car
If your car won’t start there’s probably a more serious problem requiring professional help

If this is written for those who don't know what to do.....Erm..... spot the mistake....

Check out No.8 and refer back to No.4........

No.8:

Turn off both cars’ engines and carefully disconnect the leads in the reverse order to the way they were connected (i.e. remove the black lead from your car first and finish with the red lead from the other car). Make sure the leads don’t touch one another, or either car, as you remove them.

No.4:

Take the black jump lead and attach it to the negative (-) terminal on the working battery. Then attach the other end to an earthing point (unpainted metal on the engine block or chassis) well away from the flat battery and fuel system

So.....

The last connection made is TO THE EARTHING POINT which is NOT what is says in No.8

Yes, I'm being pedantic (and it probably doesn't really matter) but it's a "How to" from a well established motoring organisation. I'd expect it to be absolutely spot on and completely "idiot proof" particularly as it's published on the internet.

Andy.

PS I have emailed them. I'll be interested in their reply

6th November 2018, 20:48	#1
75driver Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon, manual. Rover 75 Tourer, Auto. Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Newry Posts: 1,781 Thanks: 574 Thanked 443 Times in 371 Posts	Car jump starting..earth point? Just a general query. If you are getting your car jump started, from another vehicle, what do you connect the negative lead to (on your car) as an earth point? I have connected to the negative battery terminal many years ago, but now understand you’re not meant to. Is the top of the strut a suitable point? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1) 2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort) 2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone ) 2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?) 2009 E220 (For a change) 2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things) 1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)

6th November 2018, 20:58	#2
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,765 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I have always used the earth clamp on the battery with no ill effects. __________________ Lest we forget..

6th November 2018, 21:28	#3
roverbarmy This is my second home Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014 Location: East Norfolk Posts: 7,050 Thanks: 729 Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts	https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/c...p-start-a-car/ Not earthing via the battery post lessens the chance of a spark where the battery may have been gassing off. I've seen the top blown off a battery by this very problem. The mechanic ended up covered in battery acid. Luckily he was near a hose pipe and rinsed his exposed skin. His overalls literally dropped off him in shreds over the course of the next few minutes! __________________ Oil in my veins!

6th November 2018, 22:19	#5
bl52krz This is my second home Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 11,387 Thanks: 6,587 Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts	Uncharged is no problem, it’s the charging that creates the hydrogen gas. When I was at work, I told the clever mechanic that taking the lead of the battery while it is charging was very dangerous. Mind your own business I was told. Heard a loud bang one afternoon in the garage, and guess what had happened? Hospital job for burns to his face, which had just missed his eyes. Notice was then put up explaining how to charge a battery. Can not say I did not laugh about it. __________________ Great Barr, Birmingham.

6th November 2018, 23:17	#6
75driver Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon, manual. Rover 75 Tourer, Auto. Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Newry Posts: 1,781 Thanks: 574 Thanked 443 Times in 371 Posts	All replies appreciated, and perhaps emphasises the wrong way to do it is via the negative terminal on the battery. But still begs the question.... Where is the most appropriate earth point on a 75 / zt? Heavens forbid we would have to clamp a super strong toothed clamped jump lead onto the side wing😱😱😱 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1) 2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort) 2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone ) 2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?) 2009 E220 (For a change) 2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things) 1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)

6th November 2018, 22:00	#4
T-Cut This is my second home Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Sumweer onat mote o'dust (Sagin) Posts: 21,752 Thanks: 341 Thanked 3,660 Times in 2,924 Posts	I wouldn't have thought a flat battery would be emitting any hydrogen. TC

7th November 2018, 00:39	#7
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,700 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Sean. a good point is the top hydra mount bracket as shown in the photo's below with yellow dots, also the slam panel would work. 1 2 __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 7th November 2018 at 10:46.. Reason: Photo Editing.

7th November 2018, 04:25	#8
Les4048 This is my second home Rover 75 Tourer/ MG ZT-T 400 Join Date: May 2012 Location: Lhanbryde Posts: 3,277 Thanks: 2,627 Thanked 1,523 Times in 869 Posts	Any steel point on the engine or body not isolated by a rubber bush and not any alloy part either

7th November 2018, 05:21	#9
coab This is my second home 2007 57 GOLF GTi EDITION 30 DSG Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Newport Shropshire and Coventry. Posts: 5,137 Thanks: 2,424 Thanked 1,452 Times in 852 Posts	I went to a lady who had a flat battery. Numerous people failed to start her car (Fiat 500). I came along and used the engine bracket as an earth and within 2 mins she was off and running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IEORNtpujJw

7th November 2018, 07:28	#10
AndyN01 This is my second home Toyota RAV4 Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Tamworth Posts: 3,070 Thanks: 2,478 Thanked 1,579 Times in 968 Posts	Perhaps a step by step guide is what's needed? Here's one from the AA https://www.theaa.com/breakdown-cove...ing-jump-leads A step-by-step guide Find someone with a car who’s happy to help. Their car must have a fully charged battery with the same voltage as yours (usually 12 volts) Park both cars so their batteries are within easy reach of one another (without the cars actually touching). Keep the handbrakes on and the ignitions off Use the red jump lead to connect the working battery’s positive (+) terminal to the flat battery’s positive (+) terminal Take the black jump lead and attach it to the negative (-) terminal on the working battery. Then attach the other end to an earthing point (unpainted metal on the engine block or chassis) well away from the flat battery and fuel system Keep both engines off and wait for three minutes, then start the working car’s engine and let it run for a minute Start your car Leave both cars to idle, at a fast pace, for around 10 minutes Turn off both cars’ engines and carefully disconnect the leads in the reverse order to the way they were connected (i.e. remove the black lead from your car first and finish with the red lead from the other car). Make sure the leads don’t touch one another, or either car, as you remove them Restart your car If your car won’t start there’s probably a more serious problem requiring professional help If this is written for those who don't know what to do.....Erm..... spot the mistake.... Check out No.8 and refer back to No.4........ No.8: Turn off both cars’ engines and carefully disconnect the leads in the reverse order to the way they were connected (i.e. remove the black lead from your car first and finish with the red lead from the other car). Make sure the leads don’t touch one another, or either car, as you remove them. No.4: Take the black jump lead and attach it to the negative (-) terminal on the working battery. Then attach the other end to an earthing point (unpainted metal on the engine block or chassis) well away from the flat battery and fuel system So..... The last connection made is TO THE EARTHING POINT which is NOT what is says in No.8 Yes, I'm being pedantic (and it probably doesn't really matter) but it's a "How to" from a well established motoring organisation. I'd expect it to be absolutely spot on and completely "idiot proof" particularly as it's published on the internet. Andy. PS I have emailed them. I'll be interested in their reply Last edited by AndyN01; 7th November 2018 at 07:50..