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Old 7th December 2018, 21:04   #11
Best_of_British
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This has took me days and on one occasion had to borrow garage lift to get it out. If it's solid, the weight of the car on a jack will not shift it. Trikey is right, car needs to be as high as possible and a punch, brute force with the biggest hammer you have room to swing.

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Old 7th December 2018, 21:23   #12
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I had one of these where even on a two post lift and attacked with a 14lb sledge hammer, it required to be heated cherry red with oxy acetylene and with an assistant hanging off a ten foot long bar wedged between the subframe and lower arm.

I vowed if I ever got another as stubborn, I would remove the subframe instead.

Brian
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Old 7th December 2018, 22:15   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCP440 View Post
Place a strong axle stand under the threaded part of the joint and jack the car up 6 inches above the axle stand. Undo the trolley jack so the car drops onto the joint quickly and the weight of the car together with the downward force is usually enough. Sometimes a second go is needed but this technique has never failed me.

I suggest a second set of axle stands slightly lower than the first one in case it slips of the first one.


I have to confess to having made a tool for this very problem. If a duralumin fork won’t split the joint. I had a duralumin clamp that screwed down on the taper pin whilst hooking on above the arm.
Because of the type of steel it was made from you could exert a push of just under 5 tonnes then a thump with a 4lb mash hammer and the joints flew apart. Sadly I gave this tool to a car club friend down in the borders about four years ago. Haven’t seen him or the tool since.
You would think by my age I would have learned not to give out tools and things. Still dot got my net book and interphase back from the man in Aberdeen. So no playing with ecus for me.
To be honest I am getting too old between my broken back, knees and arthritis in my hands. I need to learn my limits.
Just finished building a 5” gauge A4 Pacific class loco. That will be my last scratch built engineering project, my body is just not able any more.
I will try to collect my tools. Then need to see if anyone in the club will run a tool library so members could borrow special tools for those one off jobs.
Sorry I’ve not still got the splitter or I would have sent it down
Alan


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Old 7th December 2018, 22:34   #14
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You could put a bearing splitter in the gap, while applying the weight of the car on the threaded part.

Some tolls work well if just left over night, I know if I have to do the bearings on some Jags I just leave the tool on over night as tight as I can. In the morning the joint has either split or another turn and it just comes apart.
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Old 7th December 2018, 23:57   #15
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Yes, the larger of the ball joints.
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Old 8th December 2018, 01:07   #16
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Andy
Try dosing it in some coke cola, leave for about 2 hours, then use two hammers & bash the side of the joint at the same time, it make take a couple of smash hits, then add the nut flush on the thread if you have already removed and hit it upwards with a 2.5 lump hammer it should give way to that persuasion.

Maybe try a bottle jack again leave the nut flush with the thread
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Old 8th December 2018, 08:10   #17
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Ahhhh, wheeler dealers 'n' big Ed china, well ... that's the magic of telly! there's nothing that Ed can't fix ... he's a god of all that is mechanical lol.
He's got to be a bit special just to put up with Mike 'sit my fat a**e on the bonnet' brewer.
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Old 8th December 2018, 08:47   #18
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Thanks for all your help and suggestions folks.

I've a few new ideas to try although if it gets as far as dropping the sub frame I'll probably call it quits and scrap her .

All the best and thanks again.

Andy.
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Old 8th December 2018, 09:10   #19
David Lawrence
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyN01 View Post
Thanks for all your help and suggestions folks.

I've a few new ideas to try although if it gets as far as dropping the sub frame I'll probably call it quits and scrap her .

All the best and thanks again.

Andy.
Dont know if this helps. Popped mine out this way using a combination of bits from different pullers

https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...=239032&page=2
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Old 8th December 2018, 09:13   #20
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I was in this position last year, the only way i manged to free the ball joint was to remove the sub-frame, invert it and hit the ball joint with a sledge hammer, even then it didn't release on the first hit. Removing the sub-frame isn't the worst job in the world and it does make it easy to put the replacement rear bearing and wishbone on. I'd advise checking the anti-roll bar mounting points for rust when you have the sub-frame off and remember the tracking will need to be adjusted afterwards.
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