Go Back   The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums > Technical Help Forum
Register FAQ Image Gallery Members List Calendar Mark Forums Read
Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 6th July 2020, 16:52   #51
Blink
Posted a thing or two
 
Blink's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
Question

Quote:
Originally Posted by macafee2 View Post
getting the lower arm out using marinabrians method which I think is the same as rave makes it dead easy.

Get a 4 ft bit of 2x2. wedge one end under the sub frame, tie the lower arm as close as you can get to the ball joint to the 2x2 which should be under the lower arm. Put your weight on the free end of the 2x2, push down if needed.

Took me ages to understand the method but once I did, made a difficult task very easy

macafee2

Rave is different Ian - they use special tools to release the lower arm from the swivel hub (tools 60-016 & 60-024) (pages 60-12 & 60-13).

Anyway, back to the 2x2 method. If I understand correctly, the far end of it goes under the subframe and touches the ground (??) while you stand on the near/free end. The wood and lower arm are tied together at the ball joint.

Edit: Stupid question above - no, it doesn't touch the ground.

Last edited by Blink; 6th July 2020 at 18:35..
Blink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2020, 17:28   #52
Mr Toad
Avid contributor
 
Rover 75 V8 tourer & MG ZTT & MG RV8

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: London
Posts: 138
Thanks: 41
Thanked 24 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Steve, in your post no. 22 you say "I usually never bother unstacking them either as I always use a new nut". Doing that are you not risking damaging the thread of the shaft?

Incidentally, I have a Kielder cordless impact wrench rated at 700Nm torque. You would have thought that this would loosen the nuts but it would not do so. I was surprised and disappointed at that given the considerable cost of the wrench and when I spoke to Kielder about that they made some excuse that " the nut has probably been wedged on". I must say I did not understand that as how could the nut be wedged on? Surely if the the nut has only been tightened up to about 350Nms a wrench rated at 700Nms should loosen it! What do members think.

Martin
Mr Toad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2020, 18:47   #53
Blink
Posted a thing or two
 
Blink's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Toad View Post
.... when I spoke to Kielder about that they made some excuse that " the nut has probably been wedged on". I must say I did not understand that as how could the nut be wedged on? Surely if the the nut has only been tightened up to about 350Nms a wrench rated at 700Nms should loosen it! What do members think.

Martin
Wedged on? Maybe they meant cross threaded - or maybe they were talking rubbish.

I agree - it's advertised as 700Nm torque (link) so I'd expect it to be capable of undoing a nut tightened to half of that.
Blink is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2020, 19:38   #54
COLVERT
This is my second home
 
R75 Saloon.

Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Toad View Post
Steve, in your post no. 22 you say "I usually never bother unstacking them either as I always use a new nut". Doing that are you not risking damaging the thread of the shaft?

Incidentally, I have a Kielder cordless impact wrench rated at 700Nm torque. You would have thought that this would loosen the nuts but it would not do so. I was surprised and disappointed at that given the considerable cost of the wrench and when I spoke to Kielder about that they made some excuse that " the nut has probably been wedged on". I must say I did not understand that as how could the nut be wedged on? Surely if the the nut has only been tightened up to about 350Nms a wrench rated at 700Nms should loosen it! What do members think.

Martin
That's advertising for you. There is very little nowadays that does what it says on the tin.


There won't be any damage to the thread as the metal is much harder than the nut.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg misinformation-everywhere.jpg (45.3 KB, 7 views)
COLVERT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2020, 20:46   #55
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Rave is different Ian - they use special tools to release the lower arm from the swivel hub (tools 60-016 & 60-024) (pages 60-12 & 60-13).

Anyway, back to the 2x2 method. If I understand correctly, the far end of it goes under the subframe and touches the ground (??) while you stand on the near/free end. The wood and lower arm are tied together at the ball joint.

Edit: Stupid question above - no, it doesn't touch the ground.
oh sorry, may be Haynes, somewhere I've seen a picture using a chain instead of rope. The 2x2 touches the underside of the sub frame, I'm sure its the sub frame it touches. I've done the job but my mind is a bit hazy or how.

macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 6th July 2020, 22:32   #56
Arctic
Give to Learn
 
Arctic's Avatar
 
Freelander 2

Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 18,651
Thanks: 1,155
Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts
Default

Hi Simon.
You should be able to knock it out with a piece of 2x2" wood and a lump/club hammer, you can also aid this by tapping in a metal wedge to open the joint a little.

Remove the pinch bolt which you have done already.
1

2

Use a club hammer to hit the 2x2" wood which is just rested inside the joint on the arm.
3

4

Hopefully it should drop out for you.
__________________
Arctic
Givology Learn to Give
Everything is Achievable

ad altiora tendo.

Check out our Nano meet dates
http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto

" You do the work , we supply the expertise "
Arctic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th July 2020, 07:14   #57
Mr Toad
Avid contributor
 
Rover 75 V8 tourer & MG ZTT & MG RV8

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: London
Posts: 138
Thanks: 41
Thanked 24 Times in 14 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
That's advertising for you. There is very little nowadays that does what it says on the tin.


There won't be any damage to the thread as the metal is much harder than the nut.
That has not been my experience. I found that not releasing the stake would damage the thread and I have seen this happen with other stub axles and driveshafts.

I intend to speak to Kielder again as I am not happy with the performance of this wrench and their excuse was I think rather pathetic. I think I need to speak to someone in charge.

Martin
Mr Toad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th July 2020, 07:40   #58
macafee2
This is my second home
 
Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer

Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Lincoln
Posts: 14,890
Thanks: 1,630
Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post
Hi Simon.
You should be able to knock it out with a piece of 2x2" wood and a lump/club hammer, you can also aid this by tapping in a metal wedge to open the joint a little.

Remove the pinch bolt which you have done already.
1

2

Use a club hammer to hit the 2x2" wood which is just rested inside the joint on the arm.
3

4

Hopefully it should drop out for you.
Arctic, I've tried this way and it has been damn hard work, after a lot of hammering and out of frustration I wiggled the strut and the arm all but fell out which was a shock. I have since used the 2x2 method and it was much easier. May be its me as some of you make light work of things while I struggle

macafee2
macafee2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th July 2020, 07:44   #59
marinabrian
 
marinabrian's Avatar
 
MG ZT

Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Hi Steve,

(Thanks for the PM by the way. )

I used a 600mm 1/2" bar, extended to 1100mm with the lower half of my trolley jack handle. I was worried the force might oval out the end of the jack handle but it was fine - it did bend the 600mm bar though! (A 600mm 3/4" bar wouldn't have bent). It was the RH side that did the damage - it was unbelievably tight and I had to jump up and down on the handle/bar to crack the nut. The LH side was far easier and I only had to lean heavily on it a few times.

The T50 Torx screws were no problem and the calipers & discs are now off. I'll refurb the calipers and put the new TRW discs on.

Next problem is getting the struts off - and the swivel hubs too. Here's the state of play at the moment (LH side shown).



The droplink is disconnected from the ARB, the steering rod is disconnected from the swivel and the pinch bolt for the lower arm ball joint is out (after a struggle!).

I might have to read Rave to find out how to separate the swivel from the ball joint and drive shaft, unless someone can tell me the easiest way here.





Simon, to separate the joint, equip yourself with a 65mm exhaust clamp U bolt, undo the pinch bolt and remove, fasten the U bolt loosely around the bottom of the arm, then thread a pinch bar, or similarly a crow bar is suitable, through the U bolt, so that the bar is positioned parallel with the bottom of the arm, and then tighten the U bolt up finger tight.

Tap a large flat screwdriver into slitted part of the hub joint, then stand on the end of the bar, and the joint will separate.

The trick with separating parallel joints like this, is keeping the pin parallel both when you dismantle, and reassembling them, Ian may be confusing this with another members technique when he talks about timber.

Doing it this way, also precludes any possible damage to the joint cover boot


Brian
marinabrian is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 7th July 2020, 09:12   #60
Blink
Posted a thing or two
 
Blink's Avatar
 
Rover 75 Saloon

Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Under the car
Posts: 1,840
Thanks: 210
Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
.... There won't be any damage to the thread as the metal is much harder than the nut.
Leaving it staked does add to the force needed to crack the nut though.
Blink is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT. The time now is 06:38.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright © 2006-2023, The Rover 75 & MG ZT Owners Club Ltd