Front hub nuts - torque question - Page 5

macafee2 · 5th July 2020, 13:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Use the 3/4"--32 mm socket to get the nut reasonably tight.

Then get a garage to tighten it. It would take them all of 5 seconds and cost very little.---

na, get a torque wrench and save the inconvenience and you never know, you may need to tighten new nuts is a drive shaft oil seal fails

FWIW, irrespective of manufacturer guidance, unless a very specialist working environment, I would not use a torque wrench to undo nuts and bolts.
Those that do, lets agree to disagree

macafee2

Phil-T4 · 5th July 2020, 13:05

How about one of these? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/

COLVERT · 5th July 2020, 13:22

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

na, get a torque wrench and save the inconvenience and you never know, you may need to tighten new nuts if a drive shaft oil seal fails

FWIW, irrespective of manufacturer guidance, unless a very specialist working environment, I would not use a torque wrench to undo nuts and bolts.
Those that do, lets agree to disagree

macafee2

OI !!!----I'm trying to find a cheap solution here for us old pensioners on the forum.----

macafee2 · 5th July 2020, 14:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

OI !!!----I'm trying to find a cheap solution here for us old pensioners on the forum.----

macafee2

gnu · 5th July 2020, 14:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by macafee2

na, get a torque wrench and save the inconvenience and you never know, you may need to tighten new nuts is a drive shaft oil seal fails

FWIW, irrespective of manufacturer guidance, unless a very specialist working environment, I would not use a torque wrench to undo nuts and bolts.
Those that do, lets agree to disagree

macafee2

I sort of agree and disagree. I wouldn’t use any of my calibrated Torque wrenches to undo. However, I have an old one that doesn’t click any more, and the extra length is good to undo those tight nuts that don’t need the breakers bar...

ryszard · 5th July 2020, 20:31

Hi, slightly off topic but still to do with a torque wrench,my old torque wrench snapped its ratchet gear,so I had the ratchet head mechanism welded up and now it makes a perfect breaker bar.Regards Ry......

Blink · 6th July 2020, 09:52

LH

RH

The RH nut was a lot tighter than the LH, probably by as much as 20-25%.

Btw, a Silverline 718106 32mm socket will go through the centre of an alloy road wheel, so will a Sealey IS1232 impact socket. The Sealey has less clearance though so it might clatter the wheel if used with an impact wrench. Using the road wheels mean you don't need an assistant on the brake pedal.

Thanks to all who posted.

Arctic · 6th July 2020, 10:33

Hi Simon.
What bar did you use in the end, also helps to crack these with the wheel still on the car i find, the rear you have to remove the wheel so you can remove the grease cap.

Your next problem but hopefully not in your case, is the little 50 torx on the disc, if you ever change the front discs over, so maybe best to see how tight they are now.

Blink · 6th July 2020, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi Simon.
What bar did you use in the end, also helps to crack these with the wheel still on the car i find, the rear you have to remove the wheel so you can remove the grease cap.

Your next problem but hopefully not in your case, is the little 50 torx on the disc, if you ever change the front discs over, so maybe best to see how tight they are now.

Hi Steve,

(Thanks for the PM by the way.

)

I used a 600mm 1/2" bar, extended to 1100mm with the lower half of my trolley jack handle. I was worried the force might oval out the end of the jack handle but it was fine - it did bend the 600mm bar though!

(A 600mm 3/4" bar wouldn't have bent). It was the RH side that did the damage - it was unbelievably tight and I had to jump up and down on the handle/bar to crack the nut. The LH side was far easier and I only had to lean heavily on it a few times.

The T50 Torx screws were no problem and the calipers & discs are now off. I'll refurb the calipers and put the new TRW discs on.

Next problem is getting the struts off - and the swivel hubs too. Here's the state of play at the moment (LH side shown).

The droplink is disconnected from the ARB, the steering rod is disconnected from the swivel and the pinch bolt for the lower arm ball joint is out (after a struggle!).

I might have to read Rave to find out how to separate the swivel from the ball joint and drive shaft, unless someone can tell me the easiest way here.

macafee2 · 6th July 2020, 15:05

getting the lower arm out using marinabrians method which I think is the same as rave makes it dead easy.

Get a 4 ft bit of 2x2. wedge one end under the sub frame, tie the lower arm as close as you can get to the ball joint to the 2x2 which should be under the lower arm. Put your weight on the free end of the 2x2, push down if needed.

Took me ages to understand the method but once I did, made a difficult task very easy

macafee2

not the same as rave, sorry

6th July 2020, 09:52	#47
Blink Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019 Location: Under the car Posts: 1,840 Thanks: 210 Thanked 244 Times in 221 Posts	They're off LH RH The RH nut was a lot tighter than the LH, probably by as much as 20-25%. Btw, a Silverline 718106 32mm socket will go through the centre of an alloy road wheel, so will a Sealey IS1232 impact socket. The Sealey has less clearance though so it might clatter the wheel if used with an impact wrench. Using the road wheels mean you don't need an assistant on the brake pedal. Thanks to all who posted.

6th July 2020, 10:33	#48
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,700 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	Hi Simon. What bar did you use in the end, also helps to crack these with the wheel still on the car i find, the rear you have to remove the wheel so you can remove the grease cap. Your next problem but hopefully not in your case, is the little 50 torx on the disc, if you ever change the front discs over, so maybe best to see how tight they are now. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " Last edited by Arctic; 6th July 2020 at 10:37..

6th July 2020, 15:05	#50
macafee2 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon & Tourer Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Lincoln Posts: 14,912 Thanks: 1,630 Thanked 3,032 Times in 2,181 Posts	getting the lower arm out using marinabrians method which I think is the same as rave makes it dead easy. Get a 4 ft bit of 2x2. wedge one end under the sub frame, tie the lower arm as close as you can get to the ball joint to the 2x2 which should be under the lower arm. Put your weight on the free end of the 2x2, push down if needed. Took me ages to understand the method but once I did, made a difficult task very easy macafee2 not the same as rave, sorry Last edited by macafee2; 6th July 2020 at 20:46..

5th July 2020, 13:05	#42
Phil-T4 I really should get out more....... MG ZT-T, Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Olney Posts: 2,969 Thanks: 245 Thanked 1,088 Times in 657 Posts	How about one of these? https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/040215238/

5th July 2020, 20:31	#46
ryszard Gets stuck in Moonstone diesel,X351 Jaguar and now MG ZT 260 Join Date: Dec 2013 Location: Northampton Posts: 682 Thanks: 288 Thanked 118 Times in 96 Posts	Hi, slightly off topic but still to do with a torque wrench,my old torque wrench snapped its ratchet gear,so I had the ratchet head mechanism welded up and now it makes a perfect breaker bar.Regards Ry......