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19th June 2020, 09:53 | #21 | ||
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Hi Brian. Would the upper coolant rail be one of these below. https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-STC4646A https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-PEP000130 Either are a nightmare to remove and fit I think the V3 was commissioned by DMGRS same outer casing i presume i could be wrong but different thermostat or wax part? again whom knows. I agree only time i would remove the original stat would be if it were leaking, or the water pump needed changing, other wise inline stat every time.
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19th June 2020, 11:17 | #22 | |||||
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Again, my impression is they (v2) appeared on the Mk1's, so maybe it's a Project Drive difference?? Mike Noc might know since he was involved with the initial stage of the 'investigation'. He had a failed v1, which appeared to have a displaced primary valve. Or maybe it was its rubber coating that was displaced, can't remember exactly. Here's another of his images. This shows a flow pattern on the rubber covering - note the 'shading' on the rubber. I believe it wouldn't close properly. I also understand that v1 was generally reliable. Quote:
EDIT: I also looked at the implications that water ingress to the wax capsule would have on performance. There are references to this in the literature and the possibility that coolant might 'react' with the wax was mooted. Quote:
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TC Last edited by T-Cut; 19th June 2020 at 11:32.. |
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19th June 2020, 17:32 | #23 |
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Thanks all, amazed as ever by the depth of technical knowledge on this forum - it certainly makes the prospect of long term ownership a lot less daunting!
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19th June 2020, 18:58 | #24 | |
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I'd rather know that it isn't made in the far east, the originals were made in Austria, and this one is made in the UK. I dislike the job at the best of times, and I won't be using any cheapo bits as the amount of labour time taken is the same Brian Last edited by marinabrian; 19th June 2020 at 21:25.. |
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19th June 2020, 21:21 | #25 | |
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Once the process starts, it is self perpetuating cycle of deterioration. Hope this explains it. Brian |
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21st June 2020, 20:51 | #26 | |
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Can't help you with a date for when the version 2 becme available TC. My original thermostat was only changed because the coolant pump failed and, given the amount of work to change the stat, it seemed a no brainer with a new pump being fitted. If the valve seat was leaking it wasn't noticeable when driving, and I bench tested it off the car and it opened at 88C. |
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8th October 2020, 18:27 | #27 |
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Just to conclude this thread, I ended up going with the V3 thermostat: https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/products/r75...ant=1080328848
I was having a major service done anyway, so for peace of mind I went with this option. Fully appreciate that it's the expensive way of doing things, but I'm very happy with how it performs and I intend to keep the car long term so seeing it as an investment. The garage actually said it was less of a job than they were expecting once they got into it. |
9th October 2020, 09:41 | #28 | |
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Cheers, TC |
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11th October 2020, 18:08 | #29 | |
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16th October 2020, 12:47 | #30 |
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I think it was 2.5 hours of labour off the top of my head, not sure how that equates to the book time. Might have helped that it was having a full service carried out at the same time. Think it works out as around £200, but obviously depends on how much your garage charges per hour!
I'll try and remember to take a temperature reading when I'm next going for a proper run. Probably not a very accurate measurement but the temperature gauge now sits nicely in the middle as opposed to about a quarter of the way up before. |
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