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21st July 2012, 22:23 | #121 |
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I tried k seal as my well documented thread stated to no avail to me as mine was an external leak, so had head gasket job done with no flush just the standard coolant change when doing the full head gasket job, mine has been perfect! Heating, air con running perfectly, all with 15000 miles since work! And not a drop of coolant gone anywhere! No gunk in was found in engine when stripped apart and none in header tank, and since then after a small oil leak was addressed still no sign of gunk in engine!
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4th May 2013, 19:55 | #122 |
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So whats the update with the 1.8T now Kaiser?
As Wondarweld is not sold in the UK is K-seal the same? And is radweld different from these?
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4th May 2013, 20:21 | #123 |
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I used a sealer in desperation on my Rover 800. Okay it fixed the headgasket leak BUT it gummed up the heater matrix so that it only blew cold. I'd had quotes of £600+ and the car was only worth scrap value. It used to pass mots no problem though. I'll never use it again.
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4th May 2013, 20:34 | #124 | |
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Quote:
I had a rover 800 and found the rad was blocked by Radwell. I also brought a jag last year and on the way home found a small hole in the rad and a bottle of used Radwell in the boot. Also found the heater not working due to the heater valve being blocked by Radwell.
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4th May 2013, 23:33 | #125 |
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I know this is a long thread, but the specifics of Wondarweld is discussed. It is certainly not the same as Radweld, which is designed to stop leaks in the radiator, and contains particles that swell in the holes.
I had a friend with a hole in his radiator in the Karoo in 45 degrees heat. He used it and refilled the radiator and the leak stopped. Two years later he was with me again, same radiator, same repair still worked in some very hot conditions. I have had no problems with the heater at all, after using Wondarweld. But the news is, that subsequent to this story, the car ran faultlessly for about 40000 km, as far as I remember. Then it broke the belt to the power steering, and it lodged itself under the crank sprocket and I had to repair the engine. All valves bent, smacked one piston and one liner. http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=101494 http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=130997 I found no traces of the Wondarweld anywhere where it should no be. So iow the cylinder head was not gummed up and water passages blocked. The engine was clean as a whistle. Currently stands at close to 142000 km and goes like new. The only issue is a "growl" from the gearbox, especially when cold, which I think it has always had to a lesser degree. I have given an offer on a 1.8T, where the engine has suffered catastrophic failure (conrod through block and sump). I plan to fit a 1.9TDi unit to that from a VW.All in theory so far. |
5th May 2013, 06:38 | #126 | |
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Why I used the Radweld!
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To be fair once the young lady had checked the VIN the paperwork for the transfer was done in about 10 mins. To compensate for having to take a day off work to do this we stopped at a country pub for a nice ploughmans! |
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5th May 2013, 09:45 | #127 |
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K-Seal - Wonderweld - Radweld - BarsLeaks - Etc. Etc.
From what I've seen, there are basically two types of leak sealer. One is the mechanical/chemical system and the other uses only chemicals. The first type uses a dispersion of a particulate solid/fibre which flows into the hole and mechanically blocks it. Something like the way a filter works. These products require a good shake before use and are opaque and may look metallic. The fibres or flat particles (may be mica) are bonded together with a soluble resin-like chemical that dries/stabilises the plug and holds it in place. I suspect this type is responsible for blockages that often happen in areas like the heater matrix, radiator, small coolant channels. The particles simply settle out in places of low turbulance. The other type is an older system and works a bit like the old fashioned albumin or egg white method. This uses a water soluble polymer or a polymer producing mixture. These are usually clear liquids, though typically dark in colour. A popular formula in the old days used glutaraldehye, which resinifies with other ingredients when in contact with air. As the solution leaks out, evaporation and/or oxidation causes the resin to harden and it becomes insoluble. Providing there's always water around, this system is less likely to deposit anything where it's not wanted. I'd guess the first type is quicker acting than the other, so has become more popular. People want instant fixes these days. TC Last edited by T-Cut; 5th May 2013 at 09:52.. |
5th May 2013, 18:14 | #128 |
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Wondarweld
Hi Simon, I have just read all 13 pages of this thread and thought I would check if it is sold in the UK! Well you can buy Holts Wondarweld from Halfords for £12.99 for a 500ml bottle if you want to try it? Looks to be the same product? Tom. |
6th May 2013, 06:45 | #129 |
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Cheers Tom, I have also just seen Wonderweld for sell at GSF as well.
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6th May 2013, 06:48 | #130 | |
This is my second home
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Quote:
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