cam belt tools..........

keir1163 · 25th September 2009, 06:33

guys,
i have just bought a 20k KV6 to drop in my LPG car.Now the question is do i do the belts?
Money is very tight.............the engine is 5 years old. My temotation is to not do them due to the fact i cannt do them on me own as i donnt have the tool and the belts ar alot...................

any thoughts///.???

JohnDotCom · 25th September 2009, 07:01

They will need doing in next year anyway, so may be easier to do now?
I'm sure our Petrol Gurus will be along shortly.

keir1163 · 25th September 2009, 07:07

just chancin it really.
I have been in the motor trade (ish)for years and never come across a belt that went due to age, its always been due to mileage so was really hoping that i could get away with it for a couple of years

v192mak · 25th September 2009, 07:09

Its easy enough to change the main betl. Just splice it in half and fit the new belt then cut the old one and push home the new one.

Its the inlet and exhaust cams which are more tricky.

I am sure somebody can help you with this and if the engine is not in the car it will be a dam sight easier and quicker to do.

keir1163 · 25th September 2009, 07:19

heard about that method yesterday................i suppose i could at least change that main belt hey.....cuts the risk down by 1 third and it also means changing the tensioner which are prone to problems

03 75 2.5 V6 Conny · 25th September 2009, 10:58

Hi Keir

I was talking to my local garage about this a couple of days ago.

They had 2 V6 75's in. My was having the exhaust done but the other was having the belts etc done.

They had to spend £300+ to get the correct tool and they also said that if you change the belt you should change the water pump as the new belt will cause it to leak due to change in tension etc.

They are interested in doing any 75 belts as they now have all the equipment to do it.

They are based in SW14 (London).

Cheers

Ian

BigRuss · 25th September 2009, 11:30

The problem with the cutting down the middle method is that to get the new belt on, you have to release the tension on the tensioner as the old belt will have stretched and the new one won't have. This means there is an increased risk of the belt slipping unless your careful.

Member newcybrown has a set that he hires out for £25 for two weekends (plus deposit) well worth it IMO to do the job properly.

Keir if you put your location in your details it may help as there may be others in your area who may have the correct tools.

Russ

Departed · 25th September 2009, 12:40

You should also think about the tensioner itself. Another member, Stocktake, had a V6 scrapped when the tensioner broke up as the belts had been changed but not that.

Now I worry all the time because although the belts had been done on mine, I see the tensioner wasn't.

chris75 · 25th September 2009, 15:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by lowedb

You should also think about the tensioner itself. Another member, Stocktake, had a V6 scrapped when the tensioner broke up as the belts had been changed but not that.

And there's an idler pulley too ! Anything in there which isn't done at 90k is being asked to survive to the next time at 180k

newcybrown · 25th September 2009, 17:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by 03 75 2.5 V6 Conny

They had to spend £300+ to get the correct tool and they also said that if you change the belt you should change the water pump as the new belt will cause it to leak due to change in tension etc.

Ian

What twaddle there should be no change in tension, as the tensioner is automatic, if the belt does stretch the tension is kept constant.

I agree that the water pump should be changed but that is not the reason for doing so.

It is more important to change the idler pulley and the tensioner as they are more prone to failure than the belts.

25th September 2009, 06:33	#1
keir1163 Loves to post MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: castle hedingham Posts: 476 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	cam belt tools.......... guys, i have just bought a 20k KV6 to drop in my LPG car.Now the question is do i do the belts? Money is very tight.............the engine is 5 years old. My temotation is to not do them due to the fact i cannt do them on me own as i donnt have the tool and the belts ar alot................... any thoughts///.???

25th September 2009, 07:07	#3
keir1163 Loves to post MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: castle hedingham Posts: 476 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	chancin it just chancin it really. I have been in the motor trade (ish)for years and never come across a belt that went due to age, its always been due to mileage so was really hoping that i could get away with it for a couple of years

25th September 2009, 07:19	#5
keir1163 Loves to post MG ZT+ CDTi Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: castle hedingham Posts: 476 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	heard that heard about that method yesterday................i suppose i could at least change that main belt hey.....cuts the risk down by 1 third and it also means changing the tensioner which are prone to problems

25th September 2009, 10:58	#6
03 75 2.5 V6 Conny Newbie Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 Conny Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 8 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi Keir I was talking to my local garage about this a couple of days ago. They had 2 V6 75's in. My was having the exhaust done but the other was having the belts etc done. They had to spend £300+ to get the correct tool and they also said that if you change the belt you should change the water pump as the new belt will cause it to leak due to change in tension etc. They are interested in doing any 75 belts as they now have all the equipment to do it. They are based in SW14 (London). Cheers Ian __________________ Copperleaf 2.5 V6 Conny

25th September 2009, 11:30	#7
BigRuss Premium Trader 75 CDT Tourer,2.5 Launch Saloon, Omipro MG/Rover (T4) Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Liversedge, West Yorkshire Posts: 5,405 Thanks: 1,105 Thanked 1,340 Times in 661 Posts	The problem with the cutting down the middle method is that to get the new belt on, you have to release the tension on the tensioner as the old belt will have stretched and the new one won't have. This means there is an increased risk of the belt slipping unless your careful. Member newcybrown has a set that he hires out for £25 for two weekends (plus deposit) well worth it IMO to do the job properly. Keir if you put your location in your details it may help as there may be others in your area who may have the correct tools. Russ __________________ Replacement Key Service http://https://the75andztclub.co.uk/...d.php?t=244732 Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available. Diesel ECU repair and replacement. Options enabled or disabled as required. Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160 MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available P.M. for details.

25th September 2009, 07:01	#2
JohnDotCom * Rover 75 FaceLift Tourer CDTi 170BHP Auto ConnSE 2005 Model Starlight Silver Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Abergele Posts: 28,735 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	They will need doing in next year anyway, so may be easier to do now? I'm sure our Petrol Gurus will be along shortly.

25th September 2009, 07:09	#4
v192mak Banned Saloon V6 Connie SE & MG Rover T4 Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Rotherham Posts: 186 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Its easy enough to change the main betl. Just splice it in half and fit the new belt then cut the old one and push home the new one. Its the inlet and exhaust cams which are more tricky. I am sure somebody can help you with this and if the engine is not in the car it will be a dam sight easier and quicker to do.

25th September 2009, 12:40	#8
Departed Retired -- Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: -- Posts: 3,785 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts	You should also think about the tensioner itself. Another member, Stocktake, had a V6 scrapped when the tensioner broke up as the belts had been changed but not that. Now I worry all the time because although the belts had been done on mine, I see the tensioner wasn't.