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Old 26th October 2020, 18:26   #81
Arctic
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Originally Posted by Blink View Post
I've got it released now - but only by filing off the 2nd metal rib on the gold half, using a vice to support the yellow half, then driving the white split sleeve all the way in (evenly!) with a hammer and a screwdriver.





So my contraption is free again. I don't trust it not to jam up again though so I certainly won't be using it on my expensive new MC.




Btw, this arrowhead split is the cause of all the problems. It allows one side to go in slightly further than the other, which skews the whole sleeve and causes half of the tangs to remain locked. That's what jams it up and that's why there's a special tool.





I searched for a special tool to buy but couldn't find one in the UK. This one in the USA is all I found.



https://www.holley.com/products/plum...arts/LS0024ERL

Hi Simon.
Would this be of any use to you for releasing the connector ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...e/111562381168
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Old 26th October 2020, 19:45   #82
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Released mine today with a pair of long nose pliers, no problem. They are a tight fit to connect back up again mind, and need to be aligned accurately before they will lock together.
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Old 27th October 2020, 12:17   #83
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Hi Simon.
Would this be of any use to you for releasing the connector ?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Push-in-F...e/111562381168
I'm not sure Steve - it might. The diameter between the ribs of the gold connector is 16.5mm. The fleabay tool says 'fits pipe from 4 to 14mm' so it would need widening.

Here's another one for 14-16mm. If you look closely you can see blade marks on the LH end so I think it's one of these cut in two! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TAWzIAbutqM

Holley sell this black plastic one for $5.20 - see 050ERL.
Note the video (1min 39 sec onward) shows their black QR connector and a gold female half similar to our yellow half. What are the chances of their connector being 16.5mm diameter too.



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Old 27th October 2020, 12:37   #84
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PS. Steve, I notice in the video they're using flexible braided pipe. I wonder if it would fit the metal Tazu master cylinder (STC100146T) instead of using the rigid copper pipe supplied.

I like the look of the Tazu but I don't like the copper pipe - I think it'll be a nightmare to get it from the master cylinder, through the bulkheads, round the sharp left turn (the rear bank of the KV6 is only 3-4 inches away), round two fat heater hoses and off at the correct angle to line up with the slave connector - all without touching anything.

Another point against the Tazu & copper pipe: is it a good idea to have a rigid pipe connecting the SC (which moves around a bit) to the MC (which doesn't move at all).
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Old 27th October 2020, 14:37   #85
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why does the pipe with the nipple have to be cut??

To fit a connector in place of the quick release connector.

1/ Cut the end off the pipe from the MC. Then cut off the end of the pipe from the SC.--The new connector then joins these two pipes together in place of the quick release jobby.

Then reverse bleed the whole system in one go.
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Old 27th October 2020, 15:07   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post

why does the pipe with the nipple have to be cut??.
You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?

Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post

To fit a connector in place of the quick release connector.

1/ Cut the end off the pipe from the MC. Then cut off the end of the pipe from the SC.--The new connector then joins these two pipes together in place of the quick release jobby.

Then reverse bleed the whole system in one go.
I wouldn't mind getting rid of the QR connector (yuk! ) but which MC are you suggesting I use - the Tazu with copper pipe, or the standard MC with plastic pipe?
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Old 28th October 2020, 17:13   #87
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Quote.--You've lost me there Jon - where did I say the nipple had to be cut (i.e. which post)?


Could be my mistake. I read those blue dotted lines as cuts.-

I'm not sure about which MC to use but to fit a standard coupling I guess the two pipes to be joined should have the same diameter.

However if one pipe was plastic and the other copper as long as the outside diameter was the same then the coupling would be OK on both. ( Compression coupling. )

Last edited by COLVERT; 28th October 2020 at 17:17..
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