Diesel leak dripping off sump - the investigation

[Retap]

So back to the diesel leak... Took inlet manifold off today was going to fit the new regulator seals but think it better now to pull the pump and do complete seal kit on it defo signs of long term leakage from blind side next to engine coincides with the leak location see photo.

[cb750chris]

Yes, looks like the pump seals.
Did one last weekend, took me around 3 1/2 hours.
Just take your time, and work methodically.
Biggest time drain on doing the job was removing everything to get the pump off- I found I had to take the hydromount off to get access to the pump sprocket nut.
Good luck
Chris

[Avulon]

Originally Posted by cb750chris

Yes, looks like the pump seals.
Did one last weekend, took me around 3 1/2 hours.
Just take your time, and work methodically.
Biggest time drain on doing the job was removing everything to get the pump off- I found I had to take the hydromount off to get access to the pump sprocket nut.
Good luck
Chris

You'll need a jack with a load spreading block of wood under the sump when you do this, jacking the engine up a little helps access as well.



Not forgetting to remove the starter motor (**** disconnect battery first!!****) to allow you to withdraw the pump.

[Arctic]

This is the tool i purchased when i removed a few HPFP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254715841...m=254715841021

Seal kit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-CP1...cAAOSwe8lc~6ZO

[Retap]

Originally Posted by cb750chris

Yes, looks like the pump seals.
Did one last weekend, took me around 3 1/2 hours.
Just take your time, and work methodically.
Biggest time drain on doing the job was removing everything to get the pump off- I found I had to take the hydromount off to get access to the pump sprocket nut.
Good luck
Chris

Yeah i got down to it today nice n steady but rain and bad light stopped play right at the point of wipping the pump out, just got three nuts to undo in the morning n seal kit waiting.



I have discovered also the hyrdamount has seen better days as has the other tie mount so looking to replace those to. It seems the more layers ya peel away...

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Avulon

You'll need a jack with a load spreading block of wood under the sump when you do this, jacking the engine up a little helps access as well.



Not forgetting to remove the starter motor (**** disconnect battery first!!****) to allow you to withdraw the pump.

Done all of this today for first time starter motor came of very easy, no way would the pump puller fit if the engine couldnt be lifted up a bit. Also discovered the boost control solenoid has snapped of the bracket and was just flapping about. Infact its still attached to the bracket but the bracket has snapped so got that to stick back together somehow as well.

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Arctic

This is the tool i purchased when i removed a few HPFP

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254715841...m=254715841021

Seal kit.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-CP1...cAAOSwe8lc~6ZO

That looks like a nice shorter puller, the one i bought looked like it on the photo but it is long it looks nothing like its photo lol. Did you have to lift the engine a bit to get it to fit?

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by Retap

Done all of this today for first time starter motor came of very easy, no way would the pump puller fit if the engine couldnt be lifted up a bit.

Hi John.
I have seen this so many times, 9x out 10 the bracket as broken through heat or fatigue.

This one was tied on which i noticed during a manifold EGR & MAP exchange,
1

Remove the broken part of the bracket.
2

Make your self another little bracket.
3

4

Fix it to the nearest point in this case the bracket for the fuel line.
5

If you do not have a piece of flat metal and or drill etc, you can still fix it to the same point as here below.

6


PS yes you will have to lift the engine a little to gain access to the HPFP plug, you will need to remove the lower engine mount first, then support the engine with a trolley jack with a piece of wood under the sump.

1

2

3

4

5

Jack the engine up slowly only enough to gain access to the 17mm plug.
6

7

8

This give you access to the nut on the pumps tapered spindle.
9

Undo and remove that so the special tool can be used.
10

11

12

13

Only start pushing the HPFP out once you have removed the rear nuts & fuel lines.
14

[Salmon]

John Chris did a perfect job on mine recently as mentioned in this post. What I leaned was don’t wipe the surfaces off on the pump while replacing the seals so the grit doesn’t go in to the fuel pump. He used long tweezers to to remove and replace the tiny O rings way too small to handle with your fingers.
Also don’t underestimate the torque require when putting the pump back together or you may have to have it out again to tighten further. We were lucky there as the one still leaking was the only one we could reach after refitting to nip up further.
Best of luck it all goes well for you. As ever Chris was cool as
As a brain surgeon as he went about his work.

[Retap]

Originally Posted by Arctic

Hi John.
I have seen this so many times, 9x out 10 the bracket as broken through heat or fatigue.

This one was tied on which i noticed during a manifold EGR & MAP exchange,
1


SNIP

Thats great thanks mate, got some bits of flat stainless steel from local diy shop already drilled that should work nicely but to think the bracket breaks with heat fatigue is mental as there aint no rust on the snapped bit. Also surprised the pump puller long piece screws in all the way to secure the sprocket nicely hardly any sticks out very secure!