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10th June 2019, 11:40 | #1 |
Posted a thing or two
2004 Rover 75 Saloon 2.5 V6 Conn SE Auto Join Date: Nov 2006
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Repair immediately (major defects)
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Nearside (carrier arm bush) [5.3.4 (a) (I)]
Suspension arm pin or bush excessively worn Offside (carrier arm bush) [5.3.4 (a) (I)] Just had my 2004 v6 fail its MOT for the first time not bad for a 15 year old car! I’m assuming that the carrier arm is what we would call the front wishbone but I don’t know what the numbers mean , is there any one can help me with that? I have watched the YouTube film on replacing the wishbone and feel confident enough to attempt the job myself! I just need to source and order the parts, any suggestions would be gratefully received as well as anything to look out for doing the job, it looks like a straight swap over but I’m sure it not!!! |
10th June 2019, 12:21 | #2 |
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The numbers refer to the paragraphs in the testers manual I believe. Looking at those fails, there's no need to change the lower arms just the front arm rear bushes.
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10th June 2019, 12:40 | #3 |
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Could you not ask the tester what exactly the part is they refer?
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10th June 2019, 16:58 | #4 | |
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Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
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Quote:
Well I wouldn't call it a wishbone, but it is in the same place where wishbones are fitted to some cars. Before buying any parts you need to establish exactly where the play is. It could be in the hub itself at the bottom where it clamps the lower arm outer balljoint. Jack up and secure the each side in turn and then waggle the wheel whilst looking at the balljoint and see if it is moving in the hub, or the play is in the balljoint itself - if that is the case you will see the play between the lower arm and the balljoint. |
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10th June 2019, 18:47 | #5 |
same car since 2005
2001 Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006
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As already said , surely the tester refers to the rubber bushes and not the balljoints ?
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10th June 2019, 21:08 | #6 |
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I'd say the fail refers to THESE
A quick test to see if these are indeed the problem, fit the wheel brace to one of the front wheel nuts, then place a foot on the wheel brace and attempt to tighten the bolt. If the wheel moves fore and aft within the wheelarch, the track control arm rear bushes have failed. To replace the bushes, and I have explored every different way of doing this job, and by far and away the easiest is by using the following method, with the car driven onto ramps, both sides can be replaced in under an hour, lying on your back on your drive. Tools Needed 18mm combination spanner 'Large' ring spanner 18mm flexible head ratchet spanner 10" Shifting spanner Lump hammer Piece of timber (as a wedge) The two securing bolts are best undone by fitting the 18mm combination spanner upside down and another large ring spanner looped through the jaws to gain extra purchase. Once you have cracked the two bolts, undo them by a couple of turns and spray some releasing oil on the bolts and on the hexagonal end of the lower arm where it goes through the bush. Leave it all to soak. Tighten the rear bolt back up, then undo the front bolt. You can wind it up by around 3/4" using the ratchet spanner, but no further as you'll get the spanner stuck on the anti roll bar Wind the front bolt out the rest of the way with your fingers Now undo the rear bolt. The arm at this point will now be free to articulate, so with your piece of wood, wedge it in place against the subframe. The old bush can now be knocked rearwards off the arm. Clean up the lower arm and noting the place where the old bush was located, lubricate it with a water soluble product, Liguid soap, swarfega, etc. Now fit the new bush to the lower arm, aligning the fore and aft position with the clean part of the lower arm. Orientate it correctly on the hexagon so the mounted position is correct. Position bush holes to match subframe. Next fit the rear bolt into the subframe, when entering the bolt, rotate anticlockwise until a click is heard, then with fingers only, tighten it to ensure it's not cross-threaded Once you're sure it's entered correctly, it can be tightened down to a "just nipped" position, which while holding the bush absolutely parallel with the subframe, will allow it to be rotated around the bolt. Here is where it becomes slightly tricky. Open the jaws of the shifting spanner to place it over the parallel sides of the loop of the bush housing. This allows for easy alignment for the front bolt. Drop the bolt into the bush and wiggle the housing until the bolt enters the subframe hole. Again, rotate the bolt anticlockwise until the click is heard and start off with fingers until you're sure it's not cross threaded. Spanner it down tight. Since you won't be able to apply the torque wrench, use the 18mm combination spanner with another looped through the jaws to apply the final nip. Make it as tight as you can. Brian |
10th June 2019, 21:52 | #7 |
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Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur SE,Chrysler 300C,124 Spider, Daytona 955i,Honda XL250 & Royal Enfield 650GT Join Date: Feb 2008
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I got a "Major Fail" on my motorbike because the number plate letters were slightly too small under:
Major: Central Rear Upper Registration plate does not conform to the specified requirements (0.1 (d)) I made it home okay.
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10th June 2019, 22:04 | #8 | |
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Quote:
Brian |
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10th June 2019, 22:08 | #9 | |
I really should get out more.......
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I don't use this tester anymore for obvious reasons, he could be an 4rse on occasions. |
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11th June 2019, 11:50 | #10 | |
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