Front brake discs - Febi Bilstein

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Blink

.... I've got new hoses as well but I think the pipe unions are going to cause a heap of trouble. Pics to follow.

Here's the front RH. What are the chances of getting this apart without wrecking that pipe nut. (The big blurred thing on the right is the strut btw).



I think the RH pipe above is #3 here and the LH pipe is #4 (?)



Naturally () the part numbers for #3 & 4 have disappeared https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001566


Hmm - https://www.google.co.uk/search?sour...=1592834048287

[Blink]

Two of these might help (SGK100670)



#8



https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001567

[SCP440]

I would suggest you tackle this by first using a small wire brush to remove the debris and then applying some heat with something like a crème Brule torch so you can accurately apply it and then some of this once cooled https://en.foerch.com/chemical-products/lubricants/rust-releaser/rust-solvent-black-magic-s411. With some patience and some luck if might actually budge.

This Forch product really does impress with what it will shift if you have the time to let it do its thing.

If this does not work you will have to either make or purchase the metal pipe. I would suggest some copper grease on the threads on reassembly and some aerosol grease over it to protect it for the future.

I did mine a few months ago, they were in a similar state, the secret is to give your self plenty of time, make sure you are comfortable and don't give up because it does not move straight away. Once wire brushed it looked a lot better. One side came undone on the first go the other side needed a second application of heat and Forch, after a lunch break I was surprised to find it came loose.

[marinabrian]

Blink how to approach best the removal of a rusted pipe?

Items 3 and 4 have been unavailable for some time, just make your own Simon.

I would chop off the pipe with a hacksaw flush with the union, and use a single hex socket to undo the rigid pipe to release the flexible hose.

When I removed the original pipe pictured above from the car, as can be seen the unions were chopped off, you will note the replacement pipes, don't have the final bend yet formed, this must be done once the pipe has been entered through the grommet in the inner wing.

The spring clip SGK100670, well let's just say the ATE part number for the clip is 24.5004.0002.1, for instance HERE might put the price into the sensible bracket, if you'll pardon the pun

Brian

[Blink]

Thanks Steve and Brian for all the advice.

Originally Posted by SCP440

I would suggest you tackle this by first using a small wire brush to remove the debris and then applying some heat with something like a crème Brule torch so you can accurately apply it and then some of this once cooled https://en.foerch.com/chemical-products/lubricants/rust-releaser/rust-solvent-black-magic-s411. With some patience and some luck if might actually budge.

This Forch product really does impress with what it will shift if you have the time to let it do its thing.

If this does not work you will have to either make or purchase the metal pipe. I would suggest some copper grease on the threads on reassembly and some aerosol grease over it to protect it for the future.

I did mine a few months ago, they were in a similar state, the secret is to give your self plenty of time, make sure you are comfortable and don't give up because it does not move straight away. Once wire brushed it looked a lot better. One side came undone on the first go the other side needed a second application of heat and Forch, after a lunch break I was surprised to find it came loose.

Admittedly, the above pic does show the union before doing anything to tidy it up. It'll look a lot more promising once I've had the Dremel + mini wire brush on it.

I've never heard of Forch S411 so I'll get some of that and give it a whirl. I'll get a crème Brule torch as well. Maybe this one will do the job (£15.84 with gas, delivery & vat).

Afterwards: I'll copper grease the threads - wish I'd thought of that before re-assembling the rear unions in October.

Anyway, I'm planning to put Dynax S50 on all exposed nuts, bolt threads, bolt heads and other bits such as the brake unions. A can of S50 fired into an enclosed container (don't try this indoors ) produces a pot of nicely brushable wax and it stays liquid as long as the jar is kept fully airtight. Dynax UC does the same but in a less viscous form.

Originally Posted by marinabrian

Items 3 and 4 have been unavailable for some time, just make your own Simon.

I would chop off the pipe with a hacksaw flush with the union, and use a single hex socket to undo the rigid pipe to release the flexible hose.

When I removed the original pipe pictured above from the car, as can be seen the unions were chopped off, you will note the replacement pipes, don't have the final bend yet formed, this must be done once the pipe has been entered through the grommet in the inner wing.

The spring clip SGK100670, well let's just say the ATE part number for the clip is 24.5004.0002.1, for instance HERE might put the price into the sensible bracket, if you'll pardon the pun

Brian

That's a very neat job Brian - what did you use to put the bends/angles in?

The main problem with replacing the pipes is I don't have a flaring tool and a decent kit is pretty expensive for my limited use (I'm rapidly running out of funds). I think this Sykes was the one recommended recently and people were saying the cheap tools weren't much cop.

That 24.5004.0002.1 link is a great price for the clips - there's an £8.45 delivery charge though so I'll have a snoop round the site and see what else they've got.

[Blink]

Originally Posted by Blink

.... A can of Dynax S50 fired into an enclosed container (don't try this indoors ) produces a pot of nicely brushable wax and it stays liquid as long as the jar is kept fully airtight. Dynax UC does the same but in a less viscous form.

Just a note to clarify this . Don't squirt S50 or UC directly into small jars otherwise it's likely to blow back at you with the pressure (I think Dynax use 70psi in these cans). Instead, squirt it into a large container first (e.g. a clean 6pt milk), wait for air to clear, then pour into a small sealable jar for brushing on later. Small mustard jars are perfect.

[marinabrian]

I use one of these for bending brake pipes Simon LINK this one is a great price.

The clips HERE £4.25 for a pair with free postage

Brian

[Blink]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

I use one of these for bending brake pipes Simon LINK this one is a great price.

The clips HERE £4.25 for a pair with free postage

Brian

Thanks Brian, that Irwin certainly looks the part. I'll have a think about it - the Irwin plus the Sykes is £109 (near as dammit) then there's pipe plus connectors = £130+ probably. I'll see what else is on my list that can be ditched.

Meanwhile, clips just bought for £4.25 - less than half of Rimmers.

Förch S411 also bought and I'm looking at a few mini gas torches as we speak.