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Old 7th March 2020, 01:10   #11
MarkS
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This may be stupid or a very big question, but why are there different ECUs for manual and automatic engines ?
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Old 7th March 2020, 01:57   #12
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There's 4 different ECU's that are fitted to the 75 and ZT:
NNN100692 MK1 manual
NNN100720 MK1 Auto
NNN500340 MK2 Manual and Auto
NNN100693 Replacement made by Bosch for X-Part to replace the NNN100692 after worldwide stock of new 692's were completely depleted

As you can see the MK2's use the same ecu, mainly as a cost cutting measure so they only had to stock one part
They altered the tune assemblies so that the manual and auto could share the same ECU on the MK2.

Russ
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Old 7th March 2020, 03:39   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRuss View Post
Sorry I'm afraid a ZCS recode won't do it, the 500340 tune looks for the 2nd IAT, if it's not there puts on the engine warning lamp

Thanks for the compliment, but I'm not the "new" expert on the ECU's I've been doing it all along, Brian and myself worked on the ECU reprogramming and repair along with the development of the 160 maps
In fact I was the one who sorted out the problem with the NNN100693 that even Bosch couldn't figure out
I was also the first to really go into reconfiguring things by changing the ZCS coding, obtaining the proper BMW coding and checksum calculators cost me a great deal of money back in 2008


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Yes, perhaps the word "new" was misplaced. But knowing Russ, he certainly is a fully fledged "expert". His knowledge on "life", never mind these cars is pretty impressive!

Has that earned me a cup of tea Russ,
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Old 7th March 2020, 07:57   #14
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Just re installed and everything back to normal.

Fired up as normal, no problem - but not counting my chickens just yet!

Need to take it back the 190 miles to my dad next week as it's due for MOT on the 18th - then the week after it'll be coming all the way back to Wales again, as my fathers moving back here permanently.

I'll be chuffed if it's sorted, especially as I only borrowed it (at the end of November!) as I needed an auto after breaking the 5th metartarsal in my left foot..

It never rains...

If it fails again Russ I'll be in touch
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Old 7th March 2020, 08:09   #15
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That's great news Ben, glad you're back up and running again

Thanks hopefully it'll be ok but if it's not then we can get it sorted for you.

Russ
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Old 7th March 2020, 12:41   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigRuss View Post
That's great news Ben, glad you're back up and running again

Thanks hopefully it'll be ok but if it's not then we can get it sorted for you.

Russ
Just curious but------If you've dried out a previously soaked ECU is there a product that you can spray the circuit boards with that will prevent any possible corrosion from happening ???

WD 40 perhaps ?? or something similar to disperse any moisture.
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Old 7th March 2020, 12:54   #17
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I used this to clean it up:-



But I suspect any half-decent alcohol based electrical cleaner would do the same job.

I've also used some rubber strip around the edge inside the metal case, using the screws to clamp it down to (hopefully) protect it in the future, should the same thing happen again.

Myself, I'd only use WD40, GT85 or similar on the connectors at the top, and only once they have been connected back to the ECU.
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[SIGPIC]https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/image.php?u=23989&type=sigpic&dateline=1467731033[/SIGPIC]

Past cars:-
BL: Discovery 3.1 & V8 2WD pick-up, Rover 800 Vitesse Turbo Coupe, 820 SLi 180 Fastback, 600ti, Montego 2.0EFi VDP, Ital 1.3 Estate
Ford: Transit Cosworth V6, Granada 2.9 V6 Scorpio & 2.8 V6 GL
Volvo: 480 Turbo & 1.7 ES, 240 GLE
Porsche: 944 2.7 Lux
Audi: 100 ESE 20v
Peugeot: 405 1.9 GR
Talbot: Alpine 1.6 Rapier S

Last edited by BigBen; 7th March 2020 at 13:11..
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Old 7th March 2020, 14:17   #18
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As Ben says above electrical contact cleaner or IPA to clean the board.

Don't spray WD40 or any other maintenance or protection product on the board, this can cause all sorts of problems they can be more trouble than they're worth.

Both Brian and myself have had ECU's that have failed due to various products being used on them.

Check the drains regularly and do the spy hole mod to make it easier to do is normally all that is required

Russ
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Old 7th March 2020, 16:19   #19
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Just done a 35 mile round trip shopping run; no problems, all good.

So fingers crossed for the run over to Bedford next Friday....

By the way, Russ what do you think about "plastic bagging" the board in the metal case? Do you know if any of the IC's run warm or hot at all?

Just thinking of more waterproofing for the future, although I'm hoping the rubber strip I used might well be waterproof enough. It doesn't go across the top edge where the main interface is, but should still provide some much needed protection to a good level.

Can't believe no-ones thought of it before, TBH!

Even putting some silicone around the face where the two halves of the case join would be a good idea, too, I think.
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S. Wales meets cancelled until further notice

[SIGPIC]https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/image.php?u=23989&type=sigpic&dateline=1467731033[/SIGPIC]

Past cars:-
BL: Discovery 3.1 & V8 2WD pick-up, Rover 800 Vitesse Turbo Coupe, 820 SLi 180 Fastback, 600ti, Montego 2.0EFi VDP, Ital 1.3 Estate
Ford: Transit Cosworth V6, Granada 2.9 V6 Scorpio & 2.8 V6 GL
Volvo: 480 Turbo & 1.7 ES, 240 GLE
Porsche: 944 2.7 Lux
Audi: 100 ESE 20v
Peugeot: 405 1.9 GR
Talbot: Alpine 1.6 Rapier S

Last edited by BigBen; 7th March 2020 at 16:29..
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Old 7th March 2020, 19:19   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBen View Post
Just done a 35 mile round trip shopping run; no problems, all good.

So fingers crossed for the run over to Bedford next Friday....

By the way, Russ what do you think about "plastic bagging" the board in the metal case? Do you know if any of the IC's run warm or hot at all.

Just thinking of more waterproofing for the future, although I'm hoping the rubber strip I used might well be waterproof enough. It doesn't go across the top edge where the main interface is, but should still provide some much needed protection to a good level.

Can't believe no-ones thought of it before, TBH!

Even putting some silicone around the face where the two halves of the case join would be a good idea, too, I think.
The components for the injector drivers do get quite hot anyway, the last thing you want is to get them even hotter than their normal operating temperature

There is also a atmospheric pressure sensor on the board so the case cannot be totally sealed otherwise it won't work correctly

Russ
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Full T4 Testbook diagnostics available.
Diesel ECU repair and replacement.
Options enabled or disabled as required.
Diesel X-Power 135 and 160bhp, Rover 1.8T 150 to 160
MG 160 V6 to 177 upgrades available
P.M. for details.
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