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Old 23rd July 2014, 23:02   #21
T16
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Just checked RAVE.

Glass has to be removed, but its only a few screws and not the whole assembly.
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Old 23rd July 2014, 23:09   #22
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Just checked RAVE.

Glass has to be removed, but its only a few screws and not the whole assembly.
Ok, sounds straight forward for once. Could clean up the surrounds and mechanism at the same time i guess. If a seal can be found first.
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Old 31st July 2014, 14:29   #23
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Well I decided to take the glass out and see if I could clean the seal up rather than try to source a new one. The seal was covered in green and white mildew type patches all around the edges, so I wasn't very hopeful. But I sprayed all over with Autoglym Vinyl and Rubber care, then carefully scraped using the side edge of a small flat bladed screwdriver. I was really surprised at how clean the whole thing looked when finished. Probably only took about 30-45mins to go right round the whole seal.

So for those who are considering trying to source a new seal, it might be worth trying to clean up the old one first and save some expense.
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Old 3rd November 2019, 11:31   #24
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Just a daft thought... If after clearing and modifying the passenger front drain, could we not just put 3 correctly sized corks in the other 3 drains at the top... Would there be enough drainage capacity with just one good drain...??
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Old 3rd November 2019, 11:38   #25
HarryM1BYT
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Just a daft thought... If after clearing and modifying the passenger front drain, could we not just put 3 correctly sized corks in the other 3 drains at the top... Would there be enough drainage capacity with just one good drain...??
Its not a matter of capacity, its a matter of how the car is parked which decides which drain the water goes down. With the car tail high, water will go down the lowest front drain.

If the water cannot get away, then it overspills into the car.
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