|
||
|
20th January 2018, 19:24 | #11 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
The timing system on the V6 is like on any twin cam car. There are just two sets of cams, and they are driven from the front. If your car has never had the belts changed, it will have the factory setting.
Just watch the marks on the rear sprockets, and make sure you have the same setting after the change, and you will be fine. That is the short and the long of it.
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold |
20th January 2018, 19:39 | #12 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
The two rear pulleys each bank are keyed and marked, and so is the crank pulley.
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold |
21st January 2018, 00:16 | #13 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 11,547
Thanks: 3,470
Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts
|
|
21st January 2018, 02:39 | #14 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Johannesburg ZA
Posts: 6,200
Thanks: 1
Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts
|
So what?
1.They don't if you leave them! 2.The timing marks are on the rear! That is where the timing takes place. 3. If the fronts have never been moved, the timing is factory set and there can be no doubt about the setting! It must just be reproduced after belt change. Like on any normal car! Is this really so difficult to understand?
__________________
Worth his V8 in gold |
21st January 2018, 06:25 | #15 |
I really should get out more.......
PRE LAUNCH 75/ZT 190/XJ 550 Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: carcroft doncaster
Posts: 2,866
Thanks: 101
Thanked 680 Times in 342 Posts
|
the best way to get it right is TIPEX mark it up and you cant go wrong i mark up the sprockets and the belt then transfer my markings from the old belt to the new belt and fit it (this is for the front belt ) the rear belts are so easy you cant get them wrong TIPEX again to make sure,
andy |
21st January 2018, 07:50 | #16 | |
Newbie
75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Yeovil/Barnstaple
Posts: 27
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
Quote:
|
|
21st January 2018, 08:08 | #17 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,344
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
PM sent to dai1983.
Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
21st January 2018, 09:33 | #18 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75 CDT Manual Connoisseur SE, Rover 75 CDT Automatic Connoisseur SE & a Freelander Td4. Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 11,547
Thanks: 3,470
Thanked 3,119 Times in 2,247 Posts
|
Quote:
As to your specific points: 1. Why on earth did Rover go to the expense of floating cams and setting tools if they weren't to be used when changing belts? If it was just a question of finding the initial setting at the factory they would have done that, set it as a standard for production engines, not used floating cams and saved money. 2. According to the chap who was involved with the design, the factory timing marks on the rear cams aren't accurate marks for the engine due to the fact that they were still fine tuning the valve timing for the optimum setting after the production tooling had been manufactured. If you know where to look, this is mentioned in RAVE. 3. The factory set the floating cams to suit the front belt they fitted when the engine was built up. If you change the belt you should then set the engine up to the new belt just as they did in the factory to ensure any variations in belt tolerances don't affect the engine timing. Whether anyone uses the tools or not is down to them. If you think near enough is good enough then fine, and in reality it will be, but my view is that the best way to ensure the timing is spot on is to use the tools as recommended by the factory. Last edited by Mike Noc; 21st January 2018 at 16:52.. |
|
21st January 2018, 12:08 | #19 |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Newcastle Upon Tyne
Posts: 20,151
Thanks: 3,565
Thanked 10,837 Times in 5,718 Posts
|
I always use the tools for this job, and it's not uncommon to see incorrectly timed engines that have been got at by the "Tippex Brigade"
I would say that a set of cheap tools is fine for once in a blue moon use, but use Gates Powergrip belts, not Dayco as supplied by this customer Brian |
21st January 2018, 17:12 | #20 |
Newbie
75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Yeovil/Barnstaple
Posts: 27
Thanks: 1
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
|
|
|
|