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21st February 2019, 21:05 | #111 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Suffolk
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No need to apologise - I suspect the OP has probably lost the will to live and resigned from the club after seeing the 100 odd posts to his simple answer! Tool snob - who is that then Brian? |
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22nd February 2019, 07:41 | #112 | |||||
This is my second home
1.8t Tourer Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Tanelorn
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You couldn't be more wrong in any of the above. If I say the moon is made of blue cheese, is it up to someone else to disprove or for me to prove? Quote:
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...Yep, done that - Unfortunately it doesn't support your theory. Although voltage spikes are possible during battery disconnection this is with the engine running, the spikes discussed in the above linked note are related to jumpstarting and removing the battery while the alternator is generating voltage (i.e. engine running and ign on ). No mention of battery disconnection with the ign off being any concern at all. Quote:
Again, let's try and be clear:
Apologies to other readers for the metaphoric raising of my voice there, sometimes all you can do is emphasise or speak louder when something important is being ignored...
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Need a T4 ?: T4 Owners Map thanks to Stevestrat ( use at your own risk) Where?: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tanelorn Mods/Retrofits: PCV vortex 'filter'; bluetooth; inline thermostat; reversing sensors; plenum spyhole ; headlamp washers ; Diy mp3 player replacing CD multichanger; FBH with remote; Headlamp washers; black/chrome front grille, rear blind; Xenon projectors To do: puddle lights; 2 Din cd/nav to fit; boot release button |
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22nd February 2019, 08:07 | #113 |
incurable Rover addict
Rover 75 Saloon V6 2.5 1999 - Rover 25 1.4 2002 - Rover 214i cab 1994 - Rover P5b coupe 1968 Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Bioule. South West of France.
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We all here are Rovers lovers and keen to help each other.
Hence all those acrimonious exchanges make me feel rather sad and even sick sometimes. Behave yourselves gentlemen...
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Rover 75 V6 2.5 Auto Connie born 1 July 1999, 24 kOhms resistor, 10 kOhms manual starter, full E85, modified airbox, full derestricted SS exhaust line, power & torque remap -> 202 bhp
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22nd February 2019, 08:10 | #114 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
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I too have looked inside them - well made, to modern standards, good design and using microprocessors to carefully control the charge process. In fact just like the Ctek. I have past experience of the Optimate - they were absolute rubbish, not to be trusted. I think you are over reacting in respect to these chargers. I have lots of batteries I need to maintain and have three or four of the Aldi/Lidl chargers. As an engineer, I have checked the way they work and satisfied myself that they are perfectly good, safe chargers. I have three large batteries which I am quite happy to charge once per month in situ (and still connected), including that of the 75 - absolutely no reason not to as I have done for many years. All the warnings about never charging a battery whilst connected to the car, are an hangover from the days of uncontrolled chargers from pre 1980's and the rapid boost chargers, which can take the battery voltage very high and wreck the electronics on modern cars. None of which is an issue with modern chargers.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. |
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22nd February 2019, 09:32 | #115 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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But, when people spread misinformation, in my opinion it should be corrected so that others can make their own decisions based on correct information. Especially, if people throw in a bit of "science" or lose terminology to give plausibility to the misinformation e.g. describing the Lidl charger as a CTEK copy. I have not stated any warnings about charging whilst the battery is connected to the car - in fact quite the opposite in that I stated one of mine has been connected since October. My experience with Optimate chargers has been very positive. The Lidl charger not so. My experience with the electronics in generic CFL and LED bulbs is similar - Philips and Megaman for example last about 10 times longer than the generic far-eastern ones. An Optimate was my first intelligent charger and is now 20ish years old and still working perfectly. Most people with knowledge (I think you will agree?) of PC PSU's will not put a generic (regardless of how labelled) far-eastern one in their £300 PC. They lack quality protection circuitry and the the power semiconductor and reactive components have a history of premature failure. That being the case, it surprises me that people are willing to put a charger using components of the same origin or heritage on a car where the electronics, if damaged, could cost anything from £1k to £10k to diagnose/replace. But, as already stated, this is my rationale for taking the approach that I do with items such as chargers. I have stated that I use the Lidl charger on my ride-on and stand-alone batteries because of the lack of significant risk to sophisticated and expensive electronics in these applications. The quality of the leads and connectors on the Lidl and CTEK chargers in my opinion is miles apart. Even if one knew nothing about electronics of far eastern origin, that alone would provide some food for thought about the internals. I apply similar rationale to most tools - I have a Silverline torque wrench which is kept in the boot of my car for tightening up wheel nuts. For this purpose, I can trust it's accuracy. But, when it comes to tightening up the oil drain plug on my quad or motorbike, it is the Halfords Advance (manufactured by Norbar) every time. A genuine question - let's say you owned a Mercedes CLS or a Jaguar XKR. Would you feel confident leaving a rebadged generic charger connected to it for months on end? If so, as an engineer, would you consider that a good "risk avoidance" strategy? Last edited by MSS; 22nd February 2019 at 13:02.. |
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22nd February 2019, 13:07 | #116 | |
This is my second home
75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010
Location: Leeds
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And where do you imagine all of these items are made? China, all are manufactured in China. CTEK, Lidl, Aldi all get their supply from China, assembled in China, the components are made in China. What you are paying for in most cases, is just the name on the box. What makes the contents of one box designed to do the same job, worth 20x times that of another box - just they hype around the name in most cases. One seller sells HDMI leads for £2, another seller sells gold plated oxygen free HDMI leads with 'special insulation' for £300. Purchasers swear they can tell the difference in the much better audio and picture rendition via the £300 lead. They claim the quality improvements are so very subtle that most viewers and listeners cannot tell the difference - of course they have to justify their paying £298 extra for the same item. Lidl have 300g Ginger Nuts not on special offer, 25p per pack. Tesco have 250g Ginger Nuts for £1. Which do I prefer on pure taste not value - the lidl ones, which is where I am heading right now, for another packet 25p a £1, makes no odds to me, I buy ones I like the taste of. The kings clothes syndrome applies - some people just like to justify paying more for the same thing.
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Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money. Last edited by HarryM1BYT; 22nd February 2019 at 13:11.. |
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22nd February 2019, 13:08 | #117 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lincolnshire
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No, but then I drive the car often enough it wouldn't be an issue. That's what cars are there for, driving. |
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22nd February 2019, 13:18 | #118 | ||
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
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My halfords advance are - each piece came with an individual test certificate with actual measurements at a number of torque settings |
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22nd February 2019, 14:20 | #119 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT-T 190 Join Date: Jun 2009
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At build yes, but to ensure they are still accurate they should be tested at regular intervals, every three months. Very rarely out when new but over time they can become less accurate. How old is the certificate? |
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22nd February 2019, 16:18 | #120 | |
This is my second home
Rover 75CDT, Jaguar XF-S 3.0V6, V'xhall Omega V6 Estate, Twintop 1.8VVT, Astra Estate and Corsa 1.2 Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Suffolk
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They only need to be tested every 3 - 12 months if in constant use. This is the same with most electronic measurement equipment. Mine are used a couple times in a year and the certificate is about 15 months old. In any case, the cheap ones such as the one in the boot of my car (which is sold under many different names) have been tested when new and the readings are shall we say inconsistent across samples. But for a wheel nut it serves the purpose. |
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