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30th January 2012, 11:43 | #21 |
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i have now performed the test properly and the duty solenoid pins 18+16 is indeed knackerded, just displays 1 on my meter, which is the default . Many thanks everyone, just need to decide whether to do this myself or take it in. Any guides with pics anywhere? thanks
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30th January 2012, 14:39 | #22 |
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dead easy to do have the car on ramps remove the intercooler pipes for more room also if fitted the fbh.
its about 30 bolts on the black casing just drain fluid before you remove the black casing then when prized of you will see the solenoids change it some gasket seal on the black front rebolt in revers and refill with oil
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30th January 2012, 16:31 | #23 |
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This is the way I would do it.
Obtain the correct part from Landrover or whoever. Also buy a litre of the correct auto fluid for the gearbox from them. Put the car on axle stands or ramps. Take off the undertray and intercooler flexible pipes to gain better access. Put a tray underneath to catch all the oil that will escape.(This can be measured afterwards and the exact amount of new put back in) Undo the 19 or 20, 10mm bolts around the front case and then gently break the seal. The oil may have already started to come out but breaking the seal will allow .5 to 1litre to drain. The duty solenoid is at the bottom and comes detached with the other bottom solenoid. I think its also a 10mm nut or bolt. Undo the electrical connector and replace with the new solenoid. Replace everything. You shouldnt need a new gasket. Now measure the drained oil and replace with exactly the same of new in the filler plug on top of the solenoid casing. The total cost will be less than £50, I think. When you examine the faulty solenoid you will find that the winding to casing spot weld has broken. In fact this can be soldered back but would probably not last very long. I will try to find some useful pictures for you later. Matt |
30th January 2012, 16:50 | #24 |
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Here is a picture of the solenoids from a vw which uses a similar gearbox.
I think the duty solenoid is the second one from the bottom from memory. Matt |
30th January 2012, 17:04 | #25 |
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one thing is mat i forgot about the undertray i keep meaning to put mine on.
you say mesure the oil to be honest i mesured the amount that came out but mine took 500ml more so was allready low the level is easy enouth to do just sit down tho when you get the price of the oil i used the genuwin mg rover oil cost me £70 for 10 liters as i did the flush and oil change at same time
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30th January 2012, 19:36 | #26 | |
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Quote:
'1' on your meter means open circuit, i.e. infinite resistance. You've found the fault. Simon.
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31st January 2012, 09:58 | #27 |
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Thanks everyone,i have the warm glow of satisfaction , knowing im now not at the mercy of a garage or box specialist who just want to put a new box on it. Think i will drop all the oil as i had planned to change it anyway. i have 10 litres already on standby. going to order solenoid today. I may post up a bit of a how to. Although slightly worried about getting the oil change right. what temp should the box be? and what resistance indicates its temp? thanks
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31st January 2012, 10:36 | #28 |
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by the way find the pdf both the drain and the level plug are on the bottem do not get them mixed up or it will be a gear box strip job.
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31st January 2012, 12:04 | #29 | |
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Before the computer and ECU age, nobody bothered about ATF temperature. They just drained it when it was cold and refilled with the amount quoted in the workshop manual. I can't help feeling that temperatures are quoted because it sounds sophisticated and keeps dealers in business. Simon.
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31st January 2012, 14:36 | #30 | |
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Quote:
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http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...y%20se/sig.jpg spoilt as i own a cdt auto connoisseur se cdt auto member 829 mods so far synergy 2 heated washer jets cant really add anything else as it has it all lol
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