Help With rear upper Suspension arm

MevagisseyMedic · 4th September 2016, 08:23

Hi can anyone advise me on the best way to remove the nsr upper suspension arm.
I have losened the bolt by the caliper, loosened the small bar that goes thru the body of the arm, but have come to a stumbling block with the back bolt on the best way to remove it.

and if there is anything i need to be awate of when removing it.

Many thanks

MevagisseyMedic · 4th September 2016, 13:38

How do you remove/withdraw the inner bolt

EastPete · 4th September 2016, 15:30

There should be hole in the subframe that allows you access to the 15 mm inner mounting bolt, but you will probably need a short extension bar, possibly with a flexible joint ion your socket to reach it. These can be tricky to shift - pre-soak in penetrating fluid. If the captive nut in the subframe that the bolt goes into breaks off, you have to drop the subframe I am afraid.

Pete

Animesis · 4th September 2016, 15:56

Had to replace one myself, quite a few people have trouble with the captivated nut breaking loose -and i did- thankfully I had turned it into a larger job and took the chance to clean the rear subframe down and take the arm out that way

I did, disconnect dampers, calipers, disc ABS in car and feed it down, undo hub mounts, lower subframe bit by bit with a trolley jack -only four bolts-, maneuver calipers between the arms, completely lower subframe, and then you can not only access but also see the where the upper arm bolts and nuts are, will need a short extention bar. And plenty of penetrating oil

MevagisseyMedic · 4th September 2016, 17:17

Yes looks like i will have to drop the lot

Cheers

MWMan · 5th September 2016, 05:10

Before deciding to drop the lot, have a look at this write up I did, when I replaced my upper and lower arms this year. Skip all the guff at the beginning and head to section 10. The magic trick as always is to have soaked the nuts and bolts in plus gas (or other penetrant) a day or so beforehand.

Not a job I would look forward to doing again - at least for a while!

Vossy · 5th September 2016, 12:26

For penetrating oil I make my own, 1:1 Pure Acetone and CVT fluid. It will soak into rust like nothing else, its used on ships to remove bolts and nuts rusted by seawater.
Soak it for a few days if you can.

ceedy · 5th September 2016, 14:49

Had the same prob myself , had to drop the sub frame , worst bit was the one piece exhaust in the way , luckily it also needed sorting .
Did it in the road outside/ gravity is your mate getting it off no so much putting it back

.

I put in a std nut and tack welded it on .

C.

MevagisseyMedic · 5th September 2016, 15:27

is there a difference between the saloon and tourer arms, seen them on the bay of pigs and they just mention saloon for all vehicles.

Darcydog · 5th September 2016, 15:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by MWMan

Before deciding to drop the lot, have a look at this write up I did, when I replaced my upper and lower arms this year. Skip all the guff at the beginning and head to section 10. The magic trick as always is to have soaked the nuts and bolts in plus gas (or other penetrant) a day or so beforehand.

Not a job I would look forward to doing again - at least for a while!

What an exceptional "report" on what you did.

Brilliant work mate - absolutely brilliant.

4th September 2016, 08:23	#1
MevagisseyMedic Avid contributor Rover 75 Club Tourer 2002 Auto Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Mevagissey, Cornwall Posts: 234 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 14 Posts	Help With rear upper Suspension arm Hi can anyone advise me on the best way to remove the nsr upper suspension arm. I have losened the bolt by the caliper, loosened the small bar that goes thru the body of the arm, but have come to a stumbling block with the back bolt on the best way to remove it. and if there is anything i need to be awate of when removing it. Many thanks

4th September 2016, 15:56	#4
Animesis Loves to post Rover 75 saloon 2.0l Diesel Connoisseur Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Wokingham Posts: 259 Thanks: 136 Thanked 21 Times in 15 Posts	Had to replace one myself, quite a few people have trouble with the captivated nut breaking loose -and i did- thankfully I had turned it into a larger job and took the chance to clean the rear subframe down and take the arm out that way I did, disconnect dampers, calipers, disc ABS in car and feed it down, undo hub mounts, lower subframe bit by bit with a trolley jack -only four bolts-, maneuver calipers between the arms, completely lower subframe, and then you can not only access but also see the where the upper arm bolts and nuts are, will need a short extention bar. And plenty of penetrating oil __________________ Gearbox change, clutch, subframe refurbish, handbrake mod, drumbrake repair, rear coils, plate PCB repair, sunroof drains refitted, trim leak fix, cruise control fix, cleared EGR/inlet, new strut bearings, USB sockets in rear ashtray, new front brake pipes/hoses, repaired undertray, new o/s rear upper arm, refurbished rear suspension&subframe, fixed back light leak, new exhaust, fitted HID xenons, FBH fix, new thermostat, armrest LEDs, wood dash, new hydromount, natnav, tyres, numberplates

5th September 2016, 14:49	#8
ceedy This is my second home All Trophy Blue ,ZT260#50 , ZT CDTI Auto, ZR105+ and 1.8T Firefrost spoiling the Set . Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Nr Sherborne But in Somerset.. Posts: 6,075 Thanks: 916 Thanked 1,214 Times in 768 Posts	Had the same prob myself , had to drop the sub frame , worst bit was the one piece exhaust in the way , luckily it also needed sorting . Did it in the road outside/ gravity is your mate getting it off no so much putting it back . I put in a std nut and tack welded it on . C. __________________ The Three Bloo's Wifey's Zr105, MY CDTI & 260 #50 and Number One sons 1.8T in Firefrost When I were a lad Zero to 142 in 10.25 secs at the Pod on my Blown Norton. 210 Kart Champ in 70's

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4th September 2016, 13:38	#2
MevagisseyMedic Avid contributor Rover 75 Club Tourer 2002 Auto Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Mevagissey, Cornwall Posts: 234 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 14 Posts	How do you remove/withdraw the inner bolt

4th September 2016, 15:30	#3
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	There should be hole in the subframe that allows you access to the 15 mm inner mounting bolt, but you will probably need a short extension bar, possibly with a flexible joint ion your socket to reach it. These can be tricky to shift - pre-soak in penetrating fluid. If the captive nut in the subframe that the bolt goes into breaks off, you have to drop the subframe I am afraid. Pete

4th September 2016, 17:17	#5
MevagisseyMedic Avid contributor Rover 75 Club Tourer 2002 Auto Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Mevagissey, Cornwall Posts: 234 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 14 Posts	Yes looks like i will have to drop the lot Cheers

5th September 2016, 12:26	#7
Vossy Why? ... MG ZT+ Cdti Auto saloon. Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Blockeswich, South Staffs Posts: 1,547 Thanks: 173 Thanked 483 Times in 330 Posts	For penetrating oil I make my own, 1:1 Pure Acetone and CVT fluid. It will soak into rust like nothing else, its used on ships to remove bolts and nuts rusted by seawater. Soak it for a few days if you can.

5th September 2016, 15:27	#9
MevagisseyMedic Avid contributor Rover 75 Club Tourer 2002 Auto Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Mevagissey, Cornwall Posts: 234 Thanks: 19 Thanked 19 Times in 14 Posts	is there a difference between the saloon and tourer arms, seen them on the bay of pigs and they just mention saloon for all vehicles.