Rust Prevention (Again)

[trimani]

Hi Every one.

Yes the 'Old Chestnut' again, Rust.

My car is now nearly 14 years old, and I've had her for 4 years.

As far as I know she has never had any additional rustproofing before I owned her, and I haven't had any done
I recently had the opportunity to have a quick look underneath when she was on the garage's lift, and I didn't like what I saw. The back end looked awful, especially the rear sub frame. I didn't get chance to see the rear trailing arms or anything else, but I shudder to think.

So what to do . Have I missed the boat. Is she now to old to be 'Done'. Problem is, I cannot do it myself. I can only consider Professional Rustproofing, but I think that will probably be to expensive for me.

I have considered one other option. Should I buy a secondhand Sub frame, and other parts, Rustproof them off the car, and then get local garage to swop them for me.

Anyone got any ideas. suggestions, or maybe a guide to how cheaply I could get the 'Old Girl' done, or is she too old now ?

trimani (Alf)

[d_a_n1979]

Personally I'd get the parts that can easily be replaced from a car being broken and treat them and for the rest, if it's just rusty and with no serious damage then wire-brush it and treat it and then waxoyl it etc...

Do you know if you have a 'ramp for hire' garage near to you that you can utilise?

[suzublu]

Hi Alf, I had the same shock as you when fitting the front disc back plates, lots of flaky rust on the rear subframe & anti roll bar, so, & I know you're not able, I wire brushed everything I could, & coated with Hammerite/Waxoil, including the wheel arches. Looks good, hopefully for a few more years, She's 13 next week, so finger's crossed

[Anon3]

Good question Alf.
I keep seeing Waxoyl mentioned, but this, about 30 years ago, meant wax injection to me, which I thought cars had been undergoing for donkey's years (certainly the Jag XJ6 was)

I'd much appreciate someone enlightening me on this.

Weren't the 75s waxed from new?
What's involved if you have it done?
And of course, what's the cost?

[Doc Evil]

Hi Alf
Yes the rear subframe seems to suffer somewhat more than the front but on mine it seems that moisture gets under the powdercoat and flakes it off looks worse than it is once scrapped metal was quite solid but needs something to protect from further attack
You're idea of secondhand subframe done off caris a good idea and reasonable cost and best option if you can't get under a car anymore
Doc

[Polly]

Like all modern cars, the 75 body shell is quite well rust proofed at the factory, however there is room for improvement. Behind the plastic wheel arch liners, and the wheel arch lip in particular. But the biggest problem with the factory protection is that it appears to have been applied BEFORE sub frames and suspension components were fitted.
I don't think it is necessary or cost effective to have a full wax injection programme carried out, but for only a few pounds the sub frames and wheel arches, and possibly the inner sills would benefit.
By the way, it's always worth having a closer look at the worst examples of our cars just to spot the areas that would benefit from treatment.

[trimani]

Thanks everyone for your replies.

I think that I probably start to collect up the parts, treat them myself, then get the garage to swop them for me.

I'll start with the rear subframe etc. and go on from there.

Once I've treated the parts with rust preventative, 'Hammerite' seems to be a well thought of product. Any other suggestions ?

trimani (Alf)

[d_a_n1979]

Wire brush
Krust treatment
Hammerite or Waxoyl

Should be more than sufficient

[ceedy]

I've used one of these .. linky

Filled with either wayoyl nude or Waxoyl Black,which is good for underneath, thinned down with white spirit enough to atomise properly under the pump pressure.

Get under and spray everywhere ( except your brakes ) .

Best put down a sheet or something as you get a fair few drips ..and be prepared to get a bit mcky .. but really gets it in the crevices, as these pumps can be adjusted to quite a fine spray. 1 pint should cover the whole back end .

This sort of action every few years kept my little Fiat( italian for rust ) on the road for over 30 years and its still going strong .

Chris

[wuzerk]

Originally Posted by Anon3

Good question Alf.
I keep seeing Waxoyl mentioned, but this, about 30 years ago, meant wax injection to me, which I thought cars had been undergoing for donkey's years (certainly the Jag XJ6 was)

I'd much appreciate someone enlightening me on this.

Weren't the 75s waxed from new?
What's involved if you have it done?
And of course, what's the cost?

all modern cars are injected in vulnerable areas with some sort of rust protection these days including the 75s. It is the exposed areas which are attacked by rain and salt which suffer the most. You can add some good protection by buying a 5 litre can of Wayoyl, making it thin if it is cold by standing it in hot water, and then spraying or painting it over these areas.
My method is to clean off any surface rust, treat with Jenolite (rust converter),paint with Hammerite, treat with Waxoyl, and then, ride around for a period so that road dust adheres to the Jenolite. If you then recoat it you end up with a lovely gooey coating which seems to be impervious to almost anything. Any areas which do seem to lose protection can be recoated annually with
a brush. I have rebuilt several MGs and a couple of Morris Minors and this method kept them rust free for as long as I kept the cars (up to eighteen
years). If you spray into box sections or sills you MUST ensure that the drain holes are not blocked afterwards as that is death to enclosed areas.