Metal thermostat housing KV6 - Page 18

Simon W · 22nd February 2010, 21:46

PS. Conclusion: put the MGR t'stat in Kaiser's housing and it should be perfect.

kaiser · 23rd February 2010, 02:46

The thermostat in the unit is a Calorstat, they don't come much more perfectly than that.
As for warming up time, it won't differ between my unit and the original. When you see half way on your gauge, the thermostat has not even started to open yet! So it cannot be affected by the thermostat.
Come summer and you will see these times shorten with an increase in ambient temperature.

Fraser Mitchell · 23rd February 2010, 12:45

We must not forget also that the heater matrixes have been known to get clogged up.

Jules · 31st March 2010, 13:10

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon W

I've got a Kaiser housing and the car does take a lot longer to warm up than it did with the original factory-fitted thermostat. I think there may be a difference in spec between Kaiser's stat and the original MGR one.

With the new stat, it takes about 3 miles* more driving to reach normal running temp (according to horizontal bar on the dashboard gauge) hence the heater takes longer to warm the cabin up. Mind you, these heaters aren't exactly quick anyway.

Edit: *

Original stat: normal running temp reached in 1.0 to 1.5 miles.
Kaiser stat - normal running temp reached in 4.5 to 5.0 miles.

Mmm does sound a big difference is spec.
Maybe due to the 3mm hosing clearance bypass modification in the housing rather than the Stat insert operation itself.
Simon could you run your Car in OBD dash diagnostics Option 7 for a couple of trips and report back please?

Quote:

Originally Posted by doggyboys

2004 rover 75 conn, 2l kv6 34000 miles
feedback on metal thermostat.
Hi all, had kaisers thermostat fitted in november 2009.
glad to report there has been no water loss at all.
only problem is the car does not appear to be getting hot at all.
on a normal run it gets to 58c to 66c according to the han's digital gauge.
only time i get any heat out of the heaters is when i'm stuck in traffic and
the temp on digital gauge is above 69c.
[heater matrix has been cleaned and it does work]
79c is the highest the han's digital gauge has got up to with me.
readout on dash gauge is a quarter way up, goes to half way in heavy traffic.
car needs about 8 miles before it get to normal tickover at 8000rpm. ticks over at 1400 -1000rpm before then.
also noticed a drop in fuel consumption.
i'm getting a bit concerned about engine not reaching normal operating temp. which i believe is 88c. is it going to be a problem ?
also the lack of heat from the heaters in the cold weather.
i assume the thermostat is working fine, the gauge does go up and down.
car had full service & cambelts at 33000 when metal thermostat was fitted.
had han's digital gauge fitted yesterday, hence the delay in feedback.
[did get same results before using the onboard diagnostics]
regards Colin

KV6's should be operation in the 90's C
These temps sound way too low.
Colin have you had the engine temp measured with an external thermometer yet as this would confirm the data?

I'm sure Kaiser would welcome more Data too to perhaps lessen the bypass machining for colder climates such as ours

Simon W · 31st March 2010, 21:02

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jules

Mmm does sound a big difference is spec.
Maybe due to the 3mm hosing clearance bypass modification in the housing rather than the Stat insert operation itself.
Simon could you run your Car in OBD dash diagnostics Option 7 for a couple of trips and report back please? ......

Will do Jules - how do I get to Option 7

(Btw, see latest PM & email re Broadway).

Bernard LPG · 31st March 2010, 21:18

Hmmm, just in the process of fitting mine. Is there anything that I can do to reduce this bypass?
I certainly don't want a lower temperature as I am running LPG and need all the heat that I can get in the water.

T-Cut · 31st March 2010, 22:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Simon W

how do I get to Option 7

See Post 23 here: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...mode%22&page=3

TC

Simon W · 31st March 2010, 22:36

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

See Post 23 here: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...mode%22&page=3

TC

Thanks TC - Jules emailed me the same

mfrancis · 12th April 2010, 16:39

Hi all,

Has anyone had these shipped and holding stock in the UK or shall I order one direct?
Also I don't seem to be able to find the 'How to' to change one (saw the CDTi one). I've got the 2.0l V6 on a 2000 car.
One last thing and the reason for all the questions is I've got the evidence of water seepage around the black plastic housing and also evidence of where it has been in the Vee but no moisture at present, but I've not had the car long and not had any long journeys yet, is it possible to weep and then re-seal etc?
Cheers,
Mark.

kaiser · 12th April 2010, 17:12

You should keep an eye, a very beady eye, that is! on your water level.!! At all times!
These engines run hot, 100 degrees are not uncommon, and they are pretty well insulated, so any water in the V will evaporate quite fast.
Check your water level daily, is the best advice anyone can give you. It takes no time once you are used to it, and it WILL save your car one day.
Always park in the same spot and check when cold. The car should use no water. Fill only to the MAX mark (which is low) when cold.
As for the thermostat, they do leak. If slight it will evaporate, but you will see it on the water level.
As for thermostats, try Jules, you -might- just be lucky.

23rd February 2010, 02:46	#172
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	The thermostat in the unit is a Calorstat, they don't come much more perfectly than that. As for warming up time, it won't differ between my unit and the original. When you see half way on your gauge, the thermostat has not even started to open yet! So it cannot be affected by the thermostat. Come summer and you will see these times shorten with an increase in ambient temperature. Last edited by kaiser; 23rd February 2010 at 12:51.. Reason: speeling

22nd February 2010, 21:46	#171
Simon W This is my second home Rover 75 2.0 Litre Club Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: S Posts: 3,280 Thanks: 38 Thanked 50 Times in 47 Posts	PS. Conclusion: put the MGR t'stat in Kaiser's housing and it should be perfect.

23rd February 2010, 12:45	#173
Fraser Mitchell Gets stuck in Rover 75 2.5 V6 Club Auto Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Crewe Posts: 898 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	We must not forget also that the heater matrixes have been known to get clogged up.

31st March 2010, 21:18	#176
Bernard LPG I really should get out more....... 75 V6 Saloon 2003 LPG MGZT V8 260 LPG Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Evesham Posts: 2,134 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hmmm, just in the process of fitting mine. Is there anything that I can do to reduce this bypass? I certainly don't want a lower temperature as I am running LPG and need all the heat that I can get in the water.

12th April 2010, 16:39	#179
mfrancis Regular poster Rover 75 Connoisseur saloon 2.0 V6 auto Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Wymondham Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Hi all, Has anyone had these shipped and holding stock in the UK or shall I order one direct? Also I don't seem to be able to find the 'How to' to change one (saw the CDTi one). I've got the 2.0l V6 on a 2000 car. One last thing and the reason for all the questions is I've got the evidence of water seepage around the black plastic housing and also evidence of where it has been in the Vee but no moisture at present, but I've not had the car long and not had any long journeys yet, is it possible to weep and then re-seal etc? Cheers, Mark.

12th April 2010, 17:12	#180
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	You should keep an eye, a very beady eye, that is! on your water level.!! At all times! These engines run hot, 100 degrees are not uncommon, and they are pretty well insulated, so any water in the V will evaporate quite fast. Check your water level daily, is the best advice anyone can give you. It takes no time once you are used to it, and it WILL save your car one day. Always park in the same spot and check when cold. The car should use no water. Fill only to the MAX mark (which is low) when cold. As for the thermostat, they do leak. If slight it will evaporate, but you will see it on the water level. As for thermostats, try Jules, you -might- just be lucky.