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Old 17th March 2017, 09:17   #1
KENHAYES247
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Default Inner CV joint out of the gearbox?

Hello all,

So i am just trying to finish the changing of my front shocks, springs and mounts.

The issue i am having is aligning the lower arm ball joint with the hub carrier.

I can't seem to get enough inwards movement of the hub carrier to align. I read on the (How To section) about being careful of the (inner CV joint coming out of the gearbox).

How do you now the inner CV joint has come out of the gearbox? If the issue i have described is it, how do you get it back in?
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Old 17th March 2017, 10:42   #2
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I assume you mean the left hand (short) drive shaft CV ? The longer right hand one is held in by a support bracket on the back of the engine, so should not come out during front suspension work.

Attached is a picture of the left hand inner CV pushed fully home into the gearbox. It is not that easy for these to come out of the gearbox - if the retaining circlip is in good condition, they usually need a bit of gentle levering to remove them. If the CV joint has come out, it is probably best to pull it out completely (you will lose some gearbox oil in the process), and check the circlip on the inner end of the drive shaft. Replace it if necessary. Then grease the end of the drive shaft and the gearbox oil seal, before carefully re-inserting the shaft into the gearbox, keeping it straight and tapping it home with a rubber mallet/hammer (being careful not to damage the rubber CV boot).

I hope this helps - let us know how you get on.

Pete
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File Type: jpg Driveshaft 02.17 002.jpg (135.6 KB, 37 views)
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Old 17th March 2017, 10:50   #3
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Thanks - At moment I have decided to leave any work on the car for the next hour or so as its starting to prove rather frustrating!. I will of course let you know what i do next.
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Old 17th March 2017, 10:56   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KENHAYES247 View Post
Thanks - At moment I have decided to leave any work on the car for the next hour or so as its starting to prove rather frustrating!. I will of course let you know what i do next.
Good call - when you hit a problem I find it is often best to leave it and go for cup of tea !

Pete
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Old 17th March 2017, 16:03   #5
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So, after a short respite and a cup of tea i finally found the manly strength to refit the hub carrier and ball joint back together. Some careful alignment, lifting and manipulation and it eventually went together with little effort.

Now its all reassembled and taken for a test drive ive noticed excess vibration which wasn't there before through the car body especially when on the gas between 30 and 50. When on a sweeping bend (left) there is even more.

Is this likely to be suspension related? There is no wobble through the steering at any speed or direction either moving or static, really smooth.

Any suggestion where to look?
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Old 17th March 2017, 17:40   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KENHAYES247 View Post
So, after a short respite and a cup of tea i finally found the manly strength to refit the hub carrier and ball joint back together. Some careful alignment, lifting and manipulation and it eventually went together with little effort.

Now its all reassembled and taken for a test drive ive noticed excess vibration which wasn't there before through the car body especially when on the gas between 30 and 50. When on a sweeping bend (left) there is even more.

Is this likely to be suspension related? There is no wobble through the steering at any speed or direction either moving or static, really smooth.

Any suggestion where to look?
Was the CV out of the gearbox ?? Vibration could be drive shaft issue. What else was disconnected during the work - are you sure it all went back to together properly, and all the bolts tightened to the correct torque ?

I saw a similar issue on a car after front suspension work a couple of years back, and the 'mechanic' had put the track rod ends back in the wrong way up, so the steering geometry was all out ! On the 75, the lock nut for the TR ends should face upwards.

Pete
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Old 18th March 2017, 06:24   #7
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Everything went back on in reverse order, all torque settings as per the manual. The CV did not come out of the gearbox and the track rod ends have not been touched. Everything should be back on its original settings.

The strut assembly pinch is a replacement and not a very good one so i might put the originals back in for now. I changed from winter to summer wheels at the same time so maybe there is an issue there.

Thanks for the ideas i will keep looking
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Old 18th March 2017, 18:54   #8
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I changed from winter to summer wheels at the same time so maybe there is an issue there.
Wheels out of balance ?
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Who said it was simples ?
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Old 19th March 2017, 10:49   #9
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Was the balljoint pin fully home when you put it's bolt in.
Are the wheel bolts tight?
Is the strut fully home in the hub?
Try it with the winter wheels.
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Old 20th March 2017, 13:53   #10
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So - Put my winter wheels back on today, i know they are balanced, straight and with good properly inflated tyres.

I checked the all the bolts, clamps and even changed the strut assy pinch bolt to make sure everything is as it should be again.

Wheels are on straight and bolts are tight
Pinch bolt passes through eye on strut and is clamped.
The top of the ball joints are sitting flush in position and are tightened correctly.

Went for a test drive and the same problem.

From about 30mph onwards the body of the car seems to vibrate, the faster i go the worse it gets. The vibration is at its worst when the engine is under load and driving the wheels.

The engine is smooth and revvs freely.
The steering and suspension are smooth, no vibration or wobbles felt through the wheel.
There is no clanging, banging or clonking from anywhere.

Is it likely the the LH short drive shaft has moved as described by EastPete?

Up until this change there was never any vibration.
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