2 questions answered please. - Page 2

dadragon · 26th January 2015, 12:37

Arctic, it's the grease mate, I will re-grease them when I do the job, I have ordered the spring compressors you highlighted on e-bay, thanks for that. I just need to know the best price and place for the new pair of front springs, I need code green and white for a CDTI Auto, can you advise , I have seen some on e-bay but don't want to buy inferior goods? Thanks
Regards Dadragon

Arctic · 26th January 2015, 12:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadragon

Arctic, it's the grease mate, I will re-grease them when I do the job, I have ordered the spring compressors you highlighted on e-bay, thanks for that. I just need to know the best price and place for the new pair of front springs, I need code green and white for a CDTI Auto, can you advise , I have seen some on e-bay but don't want to buy inferior goods? Thanks
Regards Dadragon

Try here below BOB give them a ring and he will advise you

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Best-of-Bri...2741585&_rdc=1

dadragon · 27th January 2015, 14:35

Update, Have removed the strut, I didn't have to split the bottom balljoint (which is what people seem to have done) as there was enough drop of the driveshaft to allow the sliding out of the strut from the hub. ( damn tight that pinch bolt!!!, used my blow lamp to heat it up). I think the reason for this was as you can see in the picture the spring slipped over the strut which made it very awkward to undo ABS sensor wiring as it was trapped in the spring!!. I have a couple of questions (again) while I'm waiting for the new spring and spring compressors to arrive. 1. I can see a piece of hard plastic tubing with a split along it's length, this was on the road when I looked under the car, I assume this slides on the end of the new spring (like a buffer) and sits at the end? The new spring may have this already on, I don't know yet. I have stripped down the top bearing and re-greased the whole thing ball bearings and race, it's in very good condition with no pitting, I did this because as you can see again in one of the pictures the spring flipped the retainer for the bearings out of it's holder (luckily no damage) showing the grease which was a bit aged. Second question is this, when I assemble the new spring onto the strut, at the top the swivel part has 3 bolts which go through the tower, this is angled quite a lot, how do I get the correct slope at the top to ensure there is equal weight spread across the bearing? I did put a small mark on the tower and one on the metal part where the rubber/metal part goes back on to assist with some alignment but I'm worried that I might get the spring located wrong and so get the angle wrong, am I worrying about nothing or do I have cause for concern?. Maybe someone has a picture of the nearside strut assembled and ready to fit for a reference? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Regards DaDragon

HarryM1BYT · 27th January 2015, 15:24

On your last point, you are worrying about nothing - It can only be attempted to fit in three ways, due to the three bolts. Only one way will fit.

The split tube, fits on the end, as I think you had realised.

You don't just need to check the condition of the bearing in the top, you need to also check for damage and dimples on the bearings face. They tend to dimple in the straight ahead position, where they get most of the hammering of the weight of the car.

If that happens, the bearings drop into the dimples and the bearing becomes reluctant to turn, forcing the spring to turn instead. As the force becomes too much, the bearing turns, causing the spring to move back to where it belong, producing a sudden twang.

dadragon · 27th January 2015, 15:54

Thanks Harry, Yes I have just been into the shed and measured the distance between the bolts and they are not equally separated so , as you say it can only go into the tower one way, but that is no good when you fit the spring and put the top bearing on as I would have thought the pressure from the spring will stop you from turning the top if the bolt holes don't line up(if you see what I mean?. I am going to re-fit with the compressors on as I don't think the strut will go in without the strut being made shorter, am I right in that assumption? As for the bearings I did as mentioned fully check their condition with no pitting on any bearing or race whatsoever. Thanks
Regards DaDragon

klarzy · 27th January 2015, 16:58

I have the double claw type and having used many over the years these are the only DIY ones I would trust...

Another tip is hold the strut in a vide if you can and put a lump of rope around the centre coil and tie the other end to the bench...

I did have one let go many years ago and the spring shot off, hit the garage door and shot off into the distance.... embarrassing knocking on my neighbours door to ask for the spring back off of his flat roof!!

when compressed they are a bomb... wear gloves, glasses and de-ass the area...

http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&d=1400150055

dadragon · 27th January 2015, 17:07

klarzy, "I have the double claw type ", These are the type I've ordered. Actually they are like your 3rd picture.
Regards DaDragon

T-Cut · 27th January 2015, 21:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadragon

- - she went to drive off this morning and as she put it in drive and turned the steering there was an almighty bang!!. The nearside front spring has snapped, lucky she wasn't driving down the road!!.

Most spring fractures seem to happen: 1) in winter when 2)just starting off with 3)steering being turned. A fracture at speed is thankfully rare.

Consider fitting a pair of tyre protector plates when it's fixed.

TC

Arctic · 28th January 2015, 01:28

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadragon

Thanks Harry, Yes I have just been into the shed and measured the distance between the bolts and they are not equally separated so , as you say it can only go into the tower one way, but that is no good when you fit the spring and put the top bearing on as I would have thought the pressure from the spring will stop you from turning the top if the bolt holes don't line up(if you see what I mean?. I am going to re-fit with the compressors on as I don't think the strut will go in without the strut being made shorter, am I right in that assumption? As for the bearings I did as mentioned fully check their condition with no pitting on any bearing or race whatsoever. Thanks
Regards DaDragon

Hi Lee.
The strut can only go in one way if you look at the strut arm you will see two brackets on is for the brake pipe hose and the wiring to the senor, the other bracket which will be at the back of the arm facing straight down this as to align with the gap where the pinch bolt fits, hopefully I am explaining it right.

As for the spring fitting back on that to can only go on one way once you offer it up to the arm you will see, also in your case I think yes you will have to fit it with the clamps on because you have not undone the lower are so the hub disc can be lowered to help the strut to fit back in.

The pics may help with what I am saying cheers Arctic

With the lower ball joint split the disc and hub can be lowered to give that extra room need to fit the strut back as you can see I took the weight of the disc by using a plant pot

dadragon · 28th January 2015, 09:35

Arctic, Thanks for your input, I have mine on a couple of bricks instead of a plant pot with a bin bag around the disc to keep the rain off. I understand the fitting of the Damper into the hub it's foolproof as you say,I can see that, it was the fitting of the top bearing I was unsure of, I can see it only goes into the tower one way as the bolts are not equally spread out, so that's ok. The point I was trying to make was, when you sit the new spring in place( I can see where that goes) and compress the spring, then put the top bearing on and lightly tighten the centre nut, what guide is there to say that you have the 3 bolts in the right orientation?. As I have never seen a fully assembled strut so I have no idea if you can turn the top bearing when the spring is uncompressed to align the bolts to the tower, do you get my meaning?.
Anyway as the spring will be compressed I suppose the top will swivel, would you recommend fitting the lower part first, then the top part into the tower, or vice versa?. Regards DaDragon (The other DaDragon Roger,(DAD) not Lee)

P.S My spring compressors have just arrived look well made, just waiting on my springs now( probably tomorrow) Don't worry if you don't get my drift as I will work it out, I just don't mind asking someone for help who's done the job. I'm always giving advice on jobs I've done as it's not a weakness to ask.

27th January 2015, 15:24	#14
HarryM1BYT This is my second home 75 Contemporary SE Mk II 2004 Man. Sal. CDTi 135ps, FBH on red diesel, WinCE6 DD Join Date: May 2010 Location: Leeds Posts: 17,273 Thanks: 2,160 Thanked 2,061 Times in 1,586 Posts	On your last point, you are worrying about nothing - It can only be attempted to fit in three ways, due to the three bolts. Only one way will fit. The split tube, fits on the end, as I think you had realised. You don't just need to check the condition of the bearing in the top, you need to also check for damage and dimples on the bearings face. They tend to dimple in the straight ahead position, where they get most of the hammering of the weight of the car. If that happens, the bearings drop into the dimples and the bearing becomes reluctant to turn, forcing the spring to turn instead. As the force becomes too much, the bearing turns, causing the spring to move back to where it belong, producing a sudden twang. __________________ Harry How To's and items I offer for free, or just to cover the cost of my expenses... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540 Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing. I've taken a vow of poverty. To annoy me, send money.

27th January 2015, 16:58	#16
klarzy This is my second home none but not gone Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: March, Cambs Posts: 16,437 Thanks: 894 Thanked 4,247 Times in 3,025 Posts	I have the double claw type and having used many over the years these are the only DIY ones I would trust... Another tip is hold the strut in a vide if you can and put a lump of rope around the centre coil and tie the other end to the bench... I did have one let go many years ago and the spring shot off, hit the garage door and shot off into the distance.... embarrassing knocking on my neighbours door to ask for the spring back off of his flat roof!! when compressed they are a bomb... wear gloves, glasses and de-ass the area... http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...4&d=1400150055 __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]….All praise Bananaswan….

27th January 2015, 17:07	#17
dadragon Gets stuck in Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wilmslow Posts: 691 Thanks: 194 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts	klarzy, "I have the double claw type ", These are the type I've ordered. Actually they are like your 3rd picture. Regards DaDragon Last edited by dadragon; 27th January 2015 at 17:12..

26th January 2015, 12:37	#11
dadragon Gets stuck in Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wilmslow Posts: 691 Thanks: 194 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts	Arctic, it's the grease mate, I will re-grease them when I do the job, I have ordered the spring compressors you highlighted on e-bay, thanks for that. I just need to know the best price and place for the new pair of front springs, I need code green and white for a CDTI Auto, can you advise , I have seen some on e-bay but don't want to buy inferior goods? Thanks Regards Dadragon

27th January 2015, 14:35	#13
dadragon Gets stuck in Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wilmslow Posts: 691 Thanks: 194 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts	Update, Have removed the strut, I didn't have to split the bottom balljoint (which is what people seem to have done) as there was enough drop of the driveshaft to allow the sliding out of the strut from the hub. ( damn tight that pinch bolt!!!, used my blow lamp to heat it up). I think the reason for this was as you can see in the picture the spring slipped over the strut which made it very awkward to undo ABS sensor wiring as it was trapped in the spring!!. I have a couple of questions (again) while I'm waiting for the new spring and spring compressors to arrive. 1. I can see a piece of hard plastic tubing with a split along it's length, this was on the road when I looked under the car, I assume this slides on the end of the new spring (like a buffer) and sits at the end? The new spring may have this already on, I don't know yet. I have stripped down the top bearing and re-greased the whole thing ball bearings and race, it's in very good condition with no pitting, I did this because as you can see again in one of the pictures the spring flipped the retainer for the bearings out of it's holder (luckily no damage) showing the grease which was a bit aged. Second question is this, when I assemble the new spring onto the strut, at the top the swivel part has 3 bolts which go through the tower, this is angled quite a lot, how do I get the correct slope at the top to ensure there is equal weight spread across the bearing? I did put a small mark on the tower and one on the metal part where the rubber/metal part goes back on to assist with some alignment but I'm worried that I might get the spring located wrong and so get the angle wrong, am I worrying about nothing or do I have cause for concern?. Maybe someone has a picture of the nearside strut assembled and ready to fit for a reference? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Regards DaDragon

27th January 2015, 15:54	#15
dadragon Gets stuck in Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wilmslow Posts: 691 Thanks: 194 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts	Thanks Harry, Yes I have just been into the shed and measured the distance between the bolts and they are not equally separated so , as you say it can only go into the tower one way, but that is no good when you fit the spring and put the top bearing on as I would have thought the pressure from the spring will stop you from turning the top if the bolt holes don't line up(if you see what I mean?. I am going to re-fit with the compressors on as I don't think the strut will go in without the strut being made shorter, am I right in that assumption? As for the bearings I did as mentioned fully check their condition with no pitting on any bearing or race whatsoever. Thanks Regards DaDragon

28th January 2015, 09:35	#20
dadragon Gets stuck in Jaguar 3 litre sport. (Lee) Rover 75 Connoisseur T4'd (Roger) Rover 75 Connoisseur SE (Gaynor) Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Wilmslow Posts: 691 Thanks: 194 Thanked 142 Times in 121 Posts	Arctic, Thanks for your input, I have mine on a couple of bricks instead of a plant pot with a bin bag around the disc to keep the rain off. I understand the fitting of the Damper into the hub it's foolproof as you say,I can see that, it was the fitting of the top bearing I was unsure of, I can see it only goes into the tower one way as the bolts are not equally spread out, so that's ok. The point I was trying to make was, when you sit the new spring in place( I can see where that goes) and compress the spring, then put the top bearing on and lightly tighten the centre nut, what guide is there to say that you have the 3 bolts in the right orientation?. As I have never seen a fully assembled strut so I have no idea if you can turn the top bearing when the spring is uncompressed to align the bolts to the tower, do you get my meaning?. Anyway as the spring will be compressed I suppose the top will swivel, would you recommend fitting the lower part first, then the top part into the tower, or vice versa?. Regards DaDragon (The other DaDragon Roger,(DAD) not Lee) P.S My spring compressors have just arrived look well made, just waiting on my springs now( probably tomorrow) Don't worry if you don't get my drift as I will work it out, I just don't mind asking someone for help who's done the job. I'm always giving advice on jobs I've done as it's not a weakness to ask.