DrColorchip disaster!

[CDTi]

Originally Posted by Tatts

Doubt it - looks too thick.

That'll probably need wet sanding first and then machine polishing with a cutting polish.

Probably right.

Whatever the OP is going to do, he should probably do it ASAP before the paint really sets.

[Jules]

Originally Posted by Tatts

What are your plans to rectify the disaster Ray?

Respray or see if someone can 'correct' it?

Gutted for you...

That's the key word here nobody has mentioned yet!!
Sounds to me like Mr Bitsy's boot is original paintwork, but the bonnet is a respray. (like so many Bonnets are when cars change hands through dealers)

Do you know Mr Bitsy if all your paintwork is "original" or not, as perhaps this Dr Colour chip product assumes working on Factory original paint.
I must admit looking at the close ups of your bonnet (before not after!), the finish IMO looks to be a respray.

Resprays (cellulose, Acrylic, 2 Pack) rarely match the durability of compounds used in factory paint.

Sincerely hope you get it sorted soon

PS: On a very tiny test area try removing a tiny amount of the mess with Cellulose thinners, then try pure Toluene

[BigRuss]

Originally Posted by Jules

That's the key word here nobody has mentioned yet!!
Sounds to me like Mr Bitsy's boot is original paintwork, but the bonnet is a respray. (like so many Bonnets are when cars change hands through dealers)

Do you know Mr Bitsy if all your paintwork is "original" or not, as perhaps this Dr Colour chip product assumes working on Factory original paint.
I must admit looking at the close ups of your bonnet (before not after!), the finish IMO looks to be a respray.

PS: On a very tiny test area try removing a tiny amount of the mess with Cellulose thinners, then try pure Toluene

Jules, I was thinking the same earlier that I wonderd if the bonnet had been re-sprayed and agree with your suggested methods to remove the paint before going down the wet sand route.

I'm happy with the results on some of the chips I've treated. The colour match is spot on. There are others that will require a few more attempts to fill the chips to a good standard. I'm sure that there is a certain amount of judgement required on how long to leave the paint before removing the excess, too soon you wipe out the paint from the chip too long and it can be difficult to remove the excess. Ambient temperature will have a great effect on this.

If you get the timing and technique right and I'm sure that some very good results are possible.

But after this disaster on Ray's car, I think the "roadrash wipe them all over in one go" method is best avoided and that each panel to be touched up is tested with a small chip in an inconspicuous area first.

Russ

[Raistlin]

Slightly away from the main thrust. Can I ask what people use to clean their brushes etc. after use please?

[JohnDotCom]

Looking at that, Sulphuric Acid!

I always bin brushes once used.

[BigRuss]

Originally Posted by Raistlin

Slightly away from the main thrust. Can I ask what people use to clean their brushes etc. after use please?

I just used normal cellulose thinners which seems to clean the brushes out o.k.

Russ

[Jules]

Russ do you mean cellulose to clean brushes of the Dr Colour chip?
As that could be the clue help Bitsy clean the mess up.

If we asitain the product is cellulose based then it shouldn't matter how long after Dr Chip dried, cellulose will always dissolve it.

However if it doesn't then I suspect it is 2 pack based.
Toluene should help to dissolve eventually. But again be careful and only try it on a tiny test area first!

[BigRuss]

Will try to leave paint on a spare panel for a couple of hours then will try and remove it with cellulose thinners. Will post up the results later but it seemed to clean the brushes o.k. although the paint was still wet.

Russ

[Tatts]

Originally Posted by Jules

Do you know Mr Bitsy if all your paintwork is "original" or not, as perhaps this Dr Colour chip product assumes working on Factory original paint.
I must admit looking at the close ups of your bonnet (before not after!), the finish IMO looks to be a respray.

Resprays (cellulose, Acrylic, 2 Pack) rarely match the durability of compounds used in factory paint.

Thats an interesting point you make!

But, I'd like to think or hope that the company which makes Dr Colorchip takes into account all permutations of paint jobs on cars.

I'm wondering if it perhaps reacted badly with some of the polish & wax that was on the bonnet, but if thats the case, why not the boot.

[Raistlin]

Originally Posted by BigRuss

I just used normal cellulose thinners which seems to clean the brushes out o.k.

Russ

Thanks Russ