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17th December 2012, 09:48 | #41 |
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The float for the petrol sensor can be taken off, and left in the petrol tank.
Then you can lift the housing a bit further out of the tank. On the housing, the lid screws off. Check carefully and see if it is fully turned against the stop, in other words, does it look fully closed? Otherwise it leaks inside, and that could be your problem. Once you unscrew the lid, you pull it up. The filter holds at the bottom, in the center around a small pipe, sealed with an O-ring. You pull up on the filter to get it off. It might need a hefty tug. There will be a lot of dust and sediment in the housing. Have a container ready to throw the old fuel into. Clean the filter. When you assemble it again, insert the big O-ring and then fix the big sealing ring inside the housing, then screw the lid back on, and turn it fully closed. You can screw a self-tapping screw sideways in between the threads on the lid and the housing to prevent it from working itself loose. There is a special plastic orange fitting that does the same, but the screw works well, and costs nothing. From memory, your fuel canister looks slightly different from mine. I wonder if it is a newer model. But I think the process would be the same. Last edited by kaiser; 17th December 2012 at 09:54.. |
17th December 2012, 13:05 | #42 |
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Mon filtre est probablement différent car il n'y a ni clip orange ni bague autour du filtre. C'est vraiment comme vous le voyez sur les photos. Ensuite le problème que vous évoquez a déjà été abordé il y a 2 mois dans un autre forum lorsque la panne est survenue. J'avais même acheté un clip orange de remplacement chez Rimmerbros... Mais finalement je ne m'en suis pas servi car le model de filtre ne correspond pas au modèle qui génère de baisse de pression à cause d'un clip usé. J'espère que tu faisais allusion à ce problème bien connu
En tous cas j'éprouve un mal fou à déboiter mon filtre voici 2 nouvelles photos Photo0083.jpg Photo0084.jpg My filter is probably different because there is no clip or orange ring around the filter. It really is as you can see on the pictures. Then the problem you mention has already been discussed 2 months ago in another forum when the failure occurred. I even bought a replacement from orange clip Rimmerbros ... But ultimately I do not have served as the model filter does not match the template that generates pressure drop due to a worn clip. I hope you alluded to this well-known problem In any case, I have a hard time déboiter my filter Here are 2 new photos |
17th December 2012, 14:09 | #43 |
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You can also check the fuel pressure directly from the fuel rail. Under the blue cap there is an ordinary tyre valve.
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Renee Descartes walks into a bar, the bartender says 'sir can I get you a martini 'Descartes says 'I don't think...' and he disappears Cheers, Fidel Last edited by workaholic_ro; 17th December 2012 at 14:16.. |
17th December 2012, 14:20 | #44 |
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Yes I know but I don't have any tool for that
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17th December 2012, 14:24 | #45 |
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You don't need one. Unscrew the blue cap and press the valve needle with any thin (or sharp) object, the tip of a ballpoint pen, a small key, anything.
If you have pressure you'll know, just take care of your eyes.
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Renee Descartes walks into a bar, the bartender says 'sir can I get you a martini 'Descartes says 'I don't think...' and he disappears Cheers, Fidel Last edited by workaholic_ro; 17th December 2012 at 14:30.. |
17th December 2012, 14:28 | #46 | |
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Quote:
should put the ignition key in a particular position? if not you do not know how to open the damn fuel filter? I remember that I have a problem with air / fuel mixture too rich Last edited by jymix; 17th December 2012 at 14:36.. |
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17th December 2012, 14:42 | #47 | |
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Quote:
I never opened it, I have the older model which do not fail, at least as far as I know, but there are plenty of posts around this on the forum. I do not very much believe in coincidence, but s...t occurs when you are expecting less. I had a problem with the camshaft sensor, I solved it and I almost killed the battery trying to start the engine. And it also was a fuel pump failure... I replaced it with a smaller japanese unit. The engine started at first try. Yes: key in position 2 (all the dash lights on) to start the pump, but it has a non returning valve, it should show some pressure even with the ignition key in position zero.
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Renee Descartes walks into a bar, the bartender says 'sir can I get you a martini 'Descartes says 'I don't think...' and he disappears Cheers, Fidel Last edited by workaholic_ro; 17th December 2012 at 14:47.. |
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17th December 2012, 14:54 | #48 |
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I must admit I don't know the fuel canister you have in the pictures. It might be the filter is the whole thing, and that it is not as normally housed in a plastic container. (I will see if Rimmers have a later model listed.)
If that is the case, then it might not suffer from the failure we are talking about. Try and see if you have pressure on the fuel rail as suggested by Workaholic. Then you can check spark with a spark plug in one of the spark plug leads. Or rather, check for spark first, in case you have petrol fumes!! Then let us take it from there. |
17th December 2012, 15:51 | #49 | |
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there is no pressure? just a little drop of fuel But, is it necessary to test the pressure when the pump is running? Photo0085.jpg and yet at the hose marked with a yellow / green, there seems to be pressure Last edited by jymix; 17th December 2012 at 15:59.. |
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17th December 2012, 16:11 | #50 | |
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The pump is running for a limited period of time from the moment you turn the ignition key to position II. Not sure how long but less than a minute. If the non return valve works, you should have pressure on the fuel rail even without ignition on. It will not spray a lot of petrol but definitelly more than a drop. When I had my problem with the fuel pump, to make myself sure that nothing else is faulty I supplied fuel from a pressurised bottle, connected directly to the fuel rail. Although I do NOT recommend it, because can be dangerous, here is the setup: 2 liter PET bottle, plastic tap, silicon hose, 700 grams petrol and 4 bar pressure. Enough to keep the engine running for an hour on idle. (picture available on request, I still have the "tool") Try this first: disconect the fuel rail (you'll need to press a small button on the plastic connector), put a can under the hose and turn the key again to II for a few seconds.
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