Engine stop rolling - Page 4

jymix · 16th December 2012, 14:00

Here are some pictures:

kaiser · 16th December 2012, 14:21

Vous pouvez simplement ignor des pignons avant. Leur position est sans importance. Ils viennent de fournir un entraînement. Les pignons arrière doivent être en ligne quand tout est prêt à partir, et la broche de sécurité doit être enlevé. C'est tout ce que vous avez à vous soucier!

Si vous regardez l'image de Workaholic, vous pouvez voir les "carrés" qui doit pointer vers l'autre

jymix · 16th December 2012, 15:21

Quote:

Originally Posted by kaiser

Vous pouvez simplement ignor des pignons avant. Leur position est sans importance. Ils viennent de fournir un entraînement. Les pignons arrière doivent être en ligne quand tout est prêt à partir, et la broche de sécurité doit être enlevé. C'est tout ce que vous avez à vous soucier!

Si vous regardez l'image de Workaholic, vous pouvez voir les "carrés" qui doit pointer vers l'autre

Mis à part une photos, pour le reste, ce sont des photos d'avant la pose de nouvelles courroies. J'ai tout aligné hier et serré les vis en mode sans échec.
Ensuite j'ai tourné le moteur sans le démarrer pour voir si ça tape quelque part. Puis j'ai essayé de démarrer le moteur. Le moteur se lance et s'arrête aussitôt.
Ci-joint l'alignement de mes poulies de devant:
pour obtenir cet alignement puisque j'avais un décallage, j'ai tourné la poulie de gauche de 135° dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre. Pour les poulies arrière, elles étaient bien alignée dès que j'ai mis le moteur en mode sans échec (pas de décallage)...

Aside from a picture to the left are pictures of before installing new belts. I have everything aligned and tightened the screws yesterday in Safe Mode.
Then I turned the engine without starting it to see if he bug somewhere. Then I tried to start the engine. The engine starts and stops immediately.
Attached the alignment of my in front pulleys
for this alignment because I had a gap Photo0075.jpg, I turned left pulley 135 ° in the direction of clockwise Photo0080.jpg.

For behind pulleys, they were aligned when I put the engine in safe mode (no gap)...

kaiser · 16th December 2012, 15:58

OK. Si les pignons arrière sont en ligne, en position de sécurité, alors que cet aspect est très bien. Surtout si vous avez activé le moteur à la main en premier. Le moteur est enregistré correctement. Vous pourriez peut-être avoir un autre problème d'approvisionnement en essence.
Il pourrait être utile de vérifier le filtre à carburant sous le siège arrière sur le côté gauche n'a pas commencé à dévisser.

jymix · 16th December 2012, 16:36

J'ai essayé de déclipser l'enveloppe pour accéder au filtre. C'est assez solidement lié. J'ai peur de casser quelque chose. Je vais voir si je peux trouver une documentation d'atelier

Photo0037.jpg

I tried to unclip the cover to access the filter. It is quite tightly bound. I'm afraid of breaking something. I'll see if I can find a workshop documentation

kaiser · 16th December 2012, 16:58

.The filter housing has a metal ring on top. You can unscrew this the normal way.
Find a nice flat piece of steel or hard wood, and place that on the knobs and tap lightly (maybe more medium!) on a few of them. It is a normal thread an comes off against the clock. It is unlikely that you will break anything.

The reason I suggest a fuel problem is that you seem to be able to start, but then it dies.

A faulty cam or crank sensor can prevent the car from starting, but is unlikely . to let is start and then die off straight away.

And just a completely stupid question, you do have fuel in the tank, oui?

kaiser · 16th December 2012, 17:04

Oh, I see you have got it off.

See if it has been jammed with a screw or something like that. Then it is likely that it might have been looked at before.

The lid is supposed to screw tightly and stay there, but the supply pipe is very stiff, and it tends to force the lid off. When it loosens, the inside O-ring no longer seals, and the fuel will go straight back into the tank.

If you have taken it out, it might be a good idea to clean the filter, it sits inside.

When you re-assemble, you have to insert the rubber ring into the canister first (as far as I remember!), otherwise you will not be able to screw the top on.

The fuel line must be pressed rather hard into the lock. You should hear a loud click otherwise it will not lock.

add on: the filter is pushed over a pipe top and bottom, sealed with an O-ring. Pull and turn carefully, the O-ring holds on. Use a bit of dishwashing liquid on the O-ring when you re-assemble.

jymix · 16th December 2012, 17:36

How can we combine both problems at the same time? Unless it is the consequences of a main problem at the base

kaiser · 16th December 2012, 18:22

It is unusual for two problems like these to be happening at the same time. But it is not impossible, and it can therefor not be ignored!
The fact that the engine turns over, and runs, briefly, indicates that the mechanical process might be OK or close to OK. Yet the engine does not want to run.

If the mechanical things are not faulty,(like bent valves or a broken piston etc), then your engine should run.

If it does not, then there either IS a mechanical problem (valves bent, wrong timing) OR there is a problem with either spark or fuel.

At the moment it is perhaps the best to verify that spark and fuel is present. The problem with the loose filter is often seen with the Rover 75, and I just think it would be best to make sure, before we start searching everywhere else.

If there are two problems like this, I cannot see that there is a common cause at the moment.

jymix · 17th December 2012, 09:32

I unscrewed the filter housing to fuel tank, but I do not know how to access the filter. Everything is secure. I'm afraid of breaking something by force. Anyone know how to do?
Is that the upper part of the casing is unscrewed? Because it is difficult to get the bottom bracket

Photo0033.jpg Photo0031.jpg Photo0039.jpg Photo0037.jpg

J'ai dévissé le boitier du filtre à carburant du reservoir, mais je ne sais pas comment accéder au filtre. Tout y est solidement fixé. J'ai peur de casser quelque chose en forçant. Quelqu'un sait comment s'y prendre?
Est-ce que la partie supérieur du boitier se dévisse? Car c'est difficile de la décrocher du support du bas

16th December 2012, 14:21	#32
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Vous pouvez simplement ignor des pignons avant. Leur position est sans importance. Ils viennent de fournir un entraînement. Les pignons arrière doivent être en ligne quand tout est prêt à partir, et la broche de sécurité doit être enlevé. C'est tout ce que vous avez à vous soucier! Si vous regardez l'image de Workaholic, vous pouvez voir les "carrés" qui doit pointer vers l'autre Last edited by kaiser; 16th December 2012 at 14:25..

16th December 2012, 16:58	#36
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	.The filter housing has a metal ring on top. You can unscrew this the normal way. Find a nice flat piece of steel or hard wood, and place that on the knobs and tap lightly (maybe more medium!) on a few of them. It is a normal thread an comes off against the clock. It is unlikely that you will break anything. The reason I suggest a fuel problem is that you seem to be able to start, but then it dies. A faulty cam or crank sensor can prevent the car from starting, but is unlikely . to let is start and then die off straight away. And just a completely stupid question, you do have fuel in the tank, oui? Last edited by kaiser; 16th December 2012 at 17:09.. Reason: "housing" added

16th December 2012, 17:04	#37
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	Oh, I see you have got it off. See if it has been jammed with a screw or something like that. Then it is likely that it might have been looked at before. The lid is supposed to screw tightly and stay there, but the supply pipe is very stiff, and it tends to force the lid off. When it loosens, the inside O-ring no longer seals, and the fuel will go straight back into the tank. If you have taken it out, it might be a good idea to clean the filter, it sits inside. When you re-assemble, you have to insert the rubber ring into the canister first (as far as I remember!), otherwise you will not be able to screw the top on. The fuel line must be pressed rather hard into the lock. You should hear a loud click otherwise it will not lock. add on: the filter is pushed over a pipe top and bottom, sealed with an O-ring. Pull and turn carefully, the O-ring holds on. Use a bit of dishwashing liquid on the O-ring when you re-assemble. Last edited by kaiser; 16th December 2012 at 17:08.. Reason: filter info

17th December 2012, 09:32	#40
jymix Avid contributor MG ZT 190 - Legendary Optimist ;) Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Abbeville Posts: 185 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I unscrewed the filter housing to fuel tank, but I do not know how to access the filter. Everything is secure. I'm afraid of breaking something by force. Anyone know how to do? Is that the upper part of the casing is unscrewed? Because it is difficult to get the bottom bracket Photo0033.jpg Photo0031.jpg Photo0039.jpg Photo0037.jpg J'ai dévissé le boitier du filtre à carburant du reservoir, mais je ne sais pas comment accéder au filtre. Tout y est solidement fixé. J'ai peur de casser quelque chose en forçant. Quelqu'un sait comment s'y prendre? Est-ce que la partie supérieur du boitier se dévisse? Car c'est difficile de la décrocher du support du bas Last edited by jymix; 17th December 2012 at 09:56..

16th December 2012, 15:58	#34
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	OK. Si les pignons arrière sont en ligne, en position de sécurité, alors que cet aspect est très bien. Surtout si vous avez activé le moteur à la main en premier. Le moteur est enregistré correctement. Vous pourriez peut-être avoir un autre problème d'approvisionnement en essence. Il pourrait être utile de vérifier le filtre à carburant sous le siège arrière sur le côté gauche n'a pas commencé à dévisser.

16th December 2012, 17:36	#38
jymix Avid contributor MG ZT 190 - Legendary Optimist ;) Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Abbeville Posts: 185 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	How can we combine both problems at the same time? Unless it is the consequences of a main problem at the base

16th December 2012, 18:22	#39
kaiser This is my second home 75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Johannesburg ZA Posts: 6,200 Thanks: 1 Thanked 859 Times in 613 Posts	It is unusual for two problems like these to be happening at the same time. But it is not impossible, and it can therefor not be ignored! The fact that the engine turns over, and runs, briefly, indicates that the mechanical process might be OK or close to OK. Yet the engine does not want to run. If the mechanical things are not faulty,(like bent valves or a broken piston etc), then your engine should run. If it does not, then there either IS a mechanical problem (valves bent, wrong timing) OR there is a problem with either spark or fuel. At the moment it is perhaps the best to verify that spark and fuel is present. The problem with the loose filter is often seen with the Rover 75, and I just think it would be best to make sure, before we start searching everywhere else. If there are two problems like this, I cannot see that there is a common cause at the moment.