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Old 28th May 2022, 20:54   #11
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it makes no sense at all from a long established car manufacturers point of view , to instruct belt changes at 4 yrs or 90000 mls ,whichever comes first, and not to issue service instruction for the idler and tensioner bearings change.i know there are mistakes in rave ,here and there, but this is a real issue and im surprised this was never questioned at service level. which leads you to ask the question of how many belts were fitted without the rest of the belt kit , at major rover dealers ? amazing when you think. ... im sure your correct though simon.
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Old 28th May 2022, 21:00   #12
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im also going to fettle the original rubber bung to fit my gates tensioner , as its not that far out a fit. but thats for when the worst job of all comes up ... the dreaded undertray refit. i always use it on the car but i have to admit its my pet hate fitting it. ...
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Old 29th May 2022, 07:01   #13
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Default The undertray

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... the dreaded undertray refit. i always use it on the car but i have to admit its my pet hate fitting it. ...
My latest technique Stefan is to locate the leading edge above the front valence then I raise it on a trolley jack positioned at its balance point to support the weight.

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Old 29th May 2022, 17:59   #14
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hi simon. i have been using this method for years and it does help indeed. my problems stems from a lack of work area. i have no off road parking space. i have to work outside on the road. to compound the problem further , i have an eight ins high kerb roadside to contend with. i have to park well away from this to lie alongside the vehicle , to adress the fixings underneath. not an ideal situation. i could use ramps but again the risk of driving up them is high on a sideways camber gradient. you cannot even leave your tools out with people walking by all day , if you go into the house for tools or even toilet .. still the jobs all done now and running nicely. with a reduced milage that the car now gets, i should be set up for quite some time. ... thanks for the tip...
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Old 4th June 2022, 21:58   #15
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Originally Posted by Teflon View Post
I can't help regarding the tensioner, but have a look here for a fix regarding Rave and Win 10 https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...in#post2890966

Cliff
thanks cliff. my problem lies with the acer laptop i have on windows 10. there is no CD tray. would this work if i could copy in full to a stick somehow ? i tried putting into a stick before, on an old windows 8 pc. into a folder but then the widows 10 on mine would not let me open it. !! you have probably guessed that i am not a PC expert , but i usually get there eventually. thanks.
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Old 5th June 2022, 17:30   #16
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The problem with RAVE is that it was for MGR techs to use as a source of information and it assumes you have MGR or motor trade knowledge. When it comes to cambelt replacement no manufacturer that I work with (including MGR) states that auxiliary jockey wheels, guides and tensioner are to be changed and it’s only the last 20 years or so that kits were developed to include water pumps and everything you need. As an apprentice, which was a long time ago, and in my early years of being qualified it was normal practice when doing a cambelt change to just replace the belt and asses everything else. However, it is the norm to now replace everything whilst in there and any KV6 cambelts I do I change the hydraulic tensioner pin also as I’ve seen the same design leak oil on other manufacturers.
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Old 5th June 2022, 20:13   #17
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this makes more sense as to why there are no instructions to replace the whole set up. but if you did want to ... there is no guidance for example the setting of the tensioner and tensioner pulley settings. whether or not these were indeed set up and tightened before delivery or not, i dont know. i would have assumed that at 60.000 mls it would be folly to expect the idler and tensioner bearings plus waterpump to last another 60.000 mls without considerable risk. The set up is robust but its not bulletproof. there has to be decision making when doing these jobs im sure , however the KV6 carries quite a bit of work intense to do the job, and so it makes sense from an owners point of view to renew all at the same time, given the costs of labour and VAT these days. thanks for the reply mark .... by the way .. were the tensioners that leaked the INA type or other makes ...
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Old 6th June 2022, 17:22   #18
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To be fair I’ve not seen a 75 tensioner leak it was on the earlier Hyundai J1 twin cams. They had exactly the same tensioner, so much so that if you put the Hyundai one and KV6 one side by side i5 was hat£ to tell which was which. They leaked causing the arm to tap against the tensioner body. Hence why I always change them if doing a V6.
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Old 6th June 2022, 23:52   #19
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Quote:
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(snip) it was normal practice when doing a cambelt change to just replace the belt and asses (snip).
Yeah, at my age that deffo needs replacing, or at least a tensioner...
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Old 7th June 2022, 15:36   #20
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just be grateful your roller bearings are ok. ...
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