Looking at buying a V6 Contemporary SE tomorrow - Page 5

vitesse · 30th March 2019, 11:01

If you’re planning on removing the heater matrix it’s all done inside the car.

When I drained my coolant on my V6 I pulled off the bottom hose too and found it didn’t drain as expected. I then flashed up my compressor and gave it short bursts of air through the expansion tank which helped considerably. No evidence of K-seal in mine though.

Regards

racing green rover · 30th March 2019, 12:05

I don't want to remove it as the pipework can be awkward to refit I just want to flush it whilst it's still fitted through the feed and return pipe

vitesse · 30th March 2019, 12:48

Sorry can't really remember the routing of the top heater hose but the bottom one goes down and behind the engine, might be more access from below.

Regards

SD1too · 30th March 2019, 14:45

Quote:

Originally Posted by racing green rover

... how am I meant to get to the feed pipe for the heater matrix under the bonnet as it's very compact

When you work it out, can you let us all know please Pete?

Regarding draining the expansion tank, have you removed the LH cylinder block drain screw (as well as the bottom radiator hose)?

Simon

racing green rover · 30th March 2019, 17:14

Yes I removed the 13mm bolt on the block under the exhaust manifold and also the radiator hose

vitesse · 30th March 2019, 19:22

If as you say the thermostat needs changing then I’d wait with the matrix flush until you get the upper inlet manifold off which will provide much more access (unless you attempt the key-hole method). The upper hose clearly goes in the direction of thermostat - while the lower hose goes down below the rear of the engine. (Where my electric winter heater element is plumbed in). I also believe it’s false economy not to replace the inlet gaskets (x2) while you’re doing the thermostat.

I’ve also found it a good idea while the upper inlet manifold is off to replace / wash the gauze filters inside that bank’s cam-covers and unblock the smaller vent hole. It’s perhaps a 40 min job once the manifold is removed, much more if you should decide to do it at a later stage and have to remove the manifold again. Got a bloke from Mid-Sweden coming up to my place soon for a tutorial.

Perhaps some small jobs while you’re waiting for your broken hose.

Regards

racing green rover · 30th March 2019, 20:56

Got some other jobs in mean time to do like a boot leak, door actuator and a broken interior handle cable

MGStephen · 1st April 2019, 13:31

Take everyone’s advice that’s said bypass the OIL COOLER. Doesn’t matter if it’s flowing both ends or backwards.

It will cause no adverse effects with it being bypassed. Listen to the members and bypass it !

racing green rover · 1st April 2019, 17:47

IM Extremely sorry if you didn't think I was listening to anyone I will bypass it like I said when I get the bottom hose iv ordered a thermostat which will be here tomorrow genuine rover one

racing green rover · 7th April 2019, 19:59

I'm going to buy some tubing tomorrow and bypass oil cooler iv'e fitted a new thermostat and flushed the engine again for 4th time and I flushed the heater matrix from the small hose which goes into the thermostat loads of k seal came out. Now the engine isn't overheating now it takes a good minute for it when the fan kicks in to bring it back down to 95c also the heater warms up now only when you rev it on idle it cools back down

30th March 2019, 19:22	#46
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,534 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	If as you say the thermostat needs changing then I’d wait with the matrix flush until you get the upper inlet manifold off which will provide much more access (unless you attempt the key-hole method). The upper hose clearly goes in the direction of thermostat - while the lower hose goes down below the rear of the engine. (Where my electric winter heater element is plumbed in). I also believe it’s false economy not to replace the inlet gaskets (x2) while you’re doing the thermostat. I’ve also found it a good idea while the upper inlet manifold is off to replace / wash the gauze filters inside that bank’s cam-covers and unblock the smaller vent hole. It’s perhaps a 40 min job once the manifold is removed, much more if you should decide to do it at a later stage and have to remove the manifold again. Got a bloke from Mid-Sweden coming up to my place soon for a tutorial. Perhaps some small jobs while you’re waiting for your broken hose. Regards Last edited by vitesse; 30th March 2019 at 19:24.. Reason: correction

1st April 2019, 13:31	#48
MGStephen Posted a thing or two ZT 190 ZTT 180 Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1,486 Thanks: 87 Thanked 146 Times in 101 Posts	Take everyone’s advice that’s said bypass the OIL COOLER. Doesn’t matter if it’s flowing both ends or backwards. It will cause no adverse effects with it being bypassed. Listen to the members and bypass it ! __________________ LIFE'S TOO SHORT NOT TO Home to multiple MG and Rover cars. MG5 Exclusive Moonshine ZS 180 Twilight ZT 190 SE Atmosphere ZT-T CDTI Horizon ZT-T 190SE Dark Fantasy 75 Contemporary SE CDTI Tourer Chatsworth 75 Contemporary SE V6 Tourer Passat 3.2 SEL Estate

1st April 2019, 17:47	#49
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	IM Extremely sorry if you didn't think I was listening to anyone I will bypass it like I said when I get the bottom hose iv ordered a thermostat which will be here tomorrow genuine rover one Last edited by racing green rover; 1st April 2019 at 17:53..

30th March 2019, 11:01	#41
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,534 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	If you’re planning on removing the heater matrix it’s all done inside the car. When I drained my coolant on my V6 I pulled off the bottom hose too and found it didn’t drain as expected. I then flashed up my compressor and gave it short bursts of air through the expansion tank which helped considerably. No evidence of K-seal in mine though. Regards

30th March 2019, 12:05	#42
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	I don't want to remove it as the pipework can be awkward to refit I just want to flush it whilst it's still fitted through the feed and return pipe

30th March 2019, 12:48	#43
vitesse I really should get out more....... Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Gävle Posts: 2,534 Thanks: 395 Thanked 823 Times in 652 Posts	Sorry can't really remember the routing of the top heater hose but the bottom one goes down and behind the engine, might be more access from below. Regards

30th March 2019, 17:14	#45
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	Yes I removed the 13mm bolt on the block under the exhaust manifold and also the radiator hose

30th March 2019, 20:56	#47
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	Got some other jobs in mean time to do like a boot leak, door actuator and a broken interior handle cable

7th April 2019, 19:59	#50
racing green rover Avid contributor MG ZT Join Date: Sep 2014 Location: Westhoughton Bolton Posts: 233 Thanks: 153 Thanked 16 Times in 14 Posts	I'm going to buy some tubing tomorrow and bypass oil cooler iv'e fitted a new thermostat and flushed the engine again for 4th time and I flushed the heater matrix from the small hose which goes into the thermostat loads of k seal came out. Now the engine isn't overheating now it takes a good minute for it when the fan kicks in to bring it back down to 95c also the heater warms up now only when you rev it on idle it cools back down