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Old 19th April 2009, 20:26   #11
Phil
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Originally Posted by lowedb View Post
I've also had a car (not a 75) where there were no fault codes, but wouldn't start. No sparks at all.
The supply to the coils was down (someone had unplugged it, don't ask) but the ECU doesn't see the supply, only the load on the trigger circuit. So fault codes aren't 100% reliable.

A short like that damaging the ECU though is pretty poor design. I take it it wasn't a Rover Phil?
It was a Honda. The way the injector had gone it gave the same effect as doing a direct short.
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Old 19th April 2009, 20:28   #12
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Not nescessarily, I've had one before with no fault other than the misfire code, the injector had shorted inside giving perfect continuity when tested. This had blown the ecu as the injector provided a direct short.
But it should not be perfect continuity on test, there should be a few ohms across each injector. You can get at the wires to them at the ECU connector in the plenum. Test across each wire to 12v ignition. From memory (not good any longer!) about 13 ohms.
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Old 19th April 2009, 20:29   #13
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It was a Honda. The way the injector had gone it gave the same effect as doing a direct short.
Yes but they should be short circuit proof anyway. Worst, it should take out a fuse.
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Old 19th April 2009, 20:30   #14
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But it should not be perfect continuity on test, there should be a few ohms across each injector. You can get at the wires to them at the ECU connector in the plenum. Test across each wire to 12v ignition. From memory (not good any longer!) about 13 ohms.
Thats right, but the injector I refer to was faulty, direct short hence no resistance. A good injector, as you say should show around 13 ohms. Good point about the ecu wiring, never thought of that.
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Old 19th April 2009, 20:33   #15
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Yes but they should be short circuit proof anyway. Worst, it should take out a fuse.
Should do I agree. But didn't in this case. Its not the only instance of this happening I've come across. Not on a Rover though.
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Old 19th April 2009, 20:39   #16
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Whatever happens, while testing, do not turn on ignition with any device disconnected. The coil drivers, for example, will almost certainly burn out if livened up and not connected to the coils - don't ask! The injectors may well be the same.
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Old 19th April 2009, 21:56   #17
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Oh bad new Dave
Hope it's not a compression issue. (spark plug would be good news)

You can get very quick rough idea of compression by "feel"
ie push the car vary slowly in 2nd gear with ignition off.

Or turn the flywheel bolt

Worth a try & quicker than removing inlet manifold.



Many many Thanks for the pressie today BTW.
I can feel a Stocktake Coil/injector quick tester coming on
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Old 20th April 2009, 12:40   #18
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Was thinking about this on the way to work.

Probably an obvious point, almost feel daft for suggesting it...

Are you sure your'e on the right cylinder? Reason I ask is on my V6 you couldn't swap coils for 5 and 6. One is on front bank (coil with lead) and the other is on rear bank (coil on the plug).

I'm pretty sure 6 is in the rear bank, but the front bank leads are marked.

It's the sort of thing I've done before now!
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Old 20th April 2009, 18:53   #19
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Good spot Duncan, I actually swapped coils 4 and 6, just in my haste to type 5 & 6 came out.
As I read it front bank from alternator end 1,3,5
Back bank from same side 2, 4, 6.

What a banging and clanging when started up this morning, I fear the end is nigh for the lump. Parked up in the drive now, going no where

Will not have any serious time to look either for the next fortnight
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Old 20th April 2009, 19:00   #20
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Things don't sound at all good do they Dave Such a shame especially considering the fun and enjoyment for the preceding daytime and evening.

Let's hope things aren't terminal and it's just a coil pack or something [gets out prayer mat....]
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