Coolant leak and slow speed fan not working

[Mr Toad]

That's a good idea Brian. I suppose I should just fill the water jacket around the block but not around the liners, is that right? If I find there is no leakage I assume that I will need to drain off some of the coolant before I put it all together. If I need to drain the block I won't be able to access the drain plug because the car is supported under the sump at the moment because the right hand mounting has been removed, what do you suggest please?


Martin

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

That's a good idea Brian. I suppose I should just fill the water jacket around the block but not around the liners, is that right? If I find there is no leakage I assume that I will need to drain off some of the coolant before I put it all together. If I need to drain the block I won't be able to access the drain plug because the car is supported under the sump at the moment because the right hand mounting has been removed, what do you suggest please?


Martin

No, just fill it up until it's level with the lowest part of the liners Martin, and leave it to see if the level drops.

You don't need to drain the block, if it stays level after the test, just siphon the water out with some thin tube, I use a length of washer jet hose, but any thin tube will do.

Brian

[Mr Toad]

Absolute disaster! I wasn't happy with the belt tension so decided to remove the belt and put it back on. The special tools went on after a bit of hassle (air con pipes again) and was putting the belt on when the tool on the rear head camshafts fell off and when I tried to put it back on the end of the exhaust cam broke off!!!!. I have seen this happen before in previous threads and was hoping that I would not experience this first hand. Obviously I do not wish to incur the expense and considerable time fitting a new camshaft so is it possible to deal the rear cams without the special tool fitted. The special tool is still fitted to the front head camshafts and I have already loosened both the sprocket bolts. I do have some markings on the sprockets and covers before I took the old belts off. Any assistance will be appreciated.

Martin

[SD1too]

Martin, please clear your inbox. I would like to send you a PM.

Thanks.

Simon

[Mr Toad]

Hli Simon, Thanks for your message I have tried to delete the messages without success. I have sent a message to the administrator.

Martin

[Mr Toad]

Simon, the message box has now been cleared.

Martin

[SD1too]

Thanks Martin, PM successfully sent.

Simon

[Mr Toad]

Fitted the new camshaft then fitted the tools to the front and then the new timing belt, made sure it was nice and taut. Removed the tools fitted the secondary belts to the rear head as they had to be removed to fit the new camshaft, sprockets not quite in line as before.

Turned the engine over twice at the crankshaft bolt then fitted the front tools . Unfortunately only one would go on the other was very slightly out. Does this mean I am one tooth out with the belt which would be very strange as all my marks on the sprockets line up.

I really do not want to complete the rebuild until I am sure the timing is 100%. Any assistance will be much appreciated.

Martin

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by Mr Toad

... only one would go on the other was very slightly out. Does this mean I am one tooth out with the belt ...

I doubt it Martin. One tooth is an enormous error and a difficult mistake to make.

Did you rotate and hold both front sprockets fully clockwise (as viewed from the front of the engine) as you engaged the new toothed belt with them?
MG Rover says it's permissible to turn the sprockets a minimum amount anti-clockwise in order to fit the drive belt.
All this is done, of course, with the front tools fitted and the camshaft sprocket bolts hand tight only.

Simon

[Mr Toad]

Thanks Simon. Yes it was all done in accordance with the book. I agree that one tooth out would be difficult to achieve if it is done correctly but why won't the tools fit?

Martin