Diesel thermostat metal coolant rail O ring

[ceetdm]

I'm planning to replace the metal coolant rail to thermostat O ring and would like some advice please.

I am planning to do this by removing the two retaining bolts from the coolant rail - can I access these easily from the rear, underside, of the engine?

Once I remove the 10mm bolt from the thermostat housing will I then be able to remove the coolant pipe and get access to the O ring.

Tommy :-)

[trikey]

Two cap screws on the rail to remove, hand between rear if engine and bulkhead, you have to be firm with the pipe and pull hard to get it out of the stat as there is t much give u less you remove the other two cap screws further along the rail at the rear of the engine.

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[ceetdm]

Originally Posted by trikey

Two cap screws on the rail to remove, hand between rear if engine and bulkhead, you have to be firm with the pipe and pull hard to get it out of the stat as there is t much give u less you remove the other two cap screws further along the rail at the rear of the engine.

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Thank you Andy, just the sort of advice I was hoping for So, do you think it is better to remove all 4 cap screws?

Tommy

[trikey]

Originally Posted by ceetdm

Thank you Andy, just the sort of advice I was hoping for So, do you think it is better to remove all 4 cap screws?



Tommy

I never do Tommy as the furthermost two are a pain to get to, it is manageable with just the nearest two if a bit awkward, plenty of lubricant on the o ring is key to prevent it being nipped.

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[Arctic]

photos of the said screws/bolts which i think will be hard to get to, this engine was out of the car,
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[Gilbey 42]

I've changed the 'stat on our cars a few times; I always release all the screws so the rail "floats" on the front hose connection. The rear screws are easy enough to undo, 5mm Allen socket as I remember; the others above the bell housing I have found to be either ordinary 8 or 10mm head. These two are accessible with a selection of extensions/uj and a 1/4 drive set. I don't advise flexing the rail, as once bent it can be impossible to straighten without removing it completely......

[ceetdm]

Originally Posted by trikey

I never do Tommy as the furthermost two are a pain to get to, it is manageable with just the nearest two if a bit awkward, plenty of lubricant on the o ring is key to prevent it being nipped.

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Thanks again Andy sounds like with a bit of care I should be OK just removing the front two and make sure O ring is lubed up before attempting to refit the pipe - if I am not too confident when it come to refitting I will remove the other two, as suggested below.

[ceetdm]

Thank you Arctic for the fantastic pics, they have helped me to fully understand what I can expect when I come to do this job. I've seen so many of your other super pictures, that have helped me over the years and was hoping you would come along with some pictures - and I wasn't dissapointed :-)

So thank you once more for all the wonderful pictures and advice you have contributed to the forum over the years, I really appreciate what you do for this forum :-)

[ceetdm]

Originally Posted by Gilbey 42

I've changed the 'stat on our cars a few times; I always release all the screws so the rail "floats" on the front hose connection. The rear screws are easy enough to undo, 5mm Allen socket as I remember; the others above the bell housing I have found to be either ordinary 8 or 10mm head. These two are accessible with a selection of extensions/uj and a 1/4 drive set. I don't advise flexing the rail, as once bent it can be impossible to straighten without removing it completely......

Thank you for the advice, I'm going to attempt this by removing just the nearest two screws to the thermostat, but if I lose confidence in my ability to complete the reinsertion of the pipe I will remove the other two screws, as you suggested.

Tommy :-)

[ceetdm]

I need a little more advice please.

Is it possible to get to the screws/bolts that hold the coolant rail to the rear of the engine without removing the pipe that comes out of the turbo?

I'm planning on removing acoustic cover from the engine and the air filter housing cover - or is it better to get to the above screws/bolts from under the car?

Tommy :-)