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1st December 2014, 11:39 | #11 | |
MG ZT Join Date: Jan 2011
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Quote:
I wouldn't have thought the Bosch kit would, as they're intended for professional use. Brian |
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1st December 2014, 11:42 | #12 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
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Well if it doesnt, id happily paypal you a little for a scan of the instructions that came with your kit!
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1st December 2014, 11:56 | #13 |
Discount MG Rover Spares
Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011
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I didn't know you could get the Bosch service kits - the one I've had in for someone was an aftermarket kit. He's not said anything about it failing, so I assume all is OK (about a year ago).
I'm impressed we're now more 'into' fixing things like the HP pump and Autobox than just chucking another on - definitely the way to go.
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1st December 2014, 16:26 | #14 | |
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Quote:
Brian |
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2nd December 2014, 14:38 | #15 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
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Thank you so much.
Thats so nice of you. What's your paypal? |
2nd December 2014, 15:44 | #16 |
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4th December 2014, 16:29 | #17 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
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))
Thanks! Any tips on how to remove without taking off the starter motor? Someone on here said they managed it, but I forget who... |
4th December 2014, 16:30 | #18 |
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4th December 2014, 23:39 | #19 |
I really should get out more.......
ZT CDTi 135, ZT260SE Join Date: Feb 2011
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Anyone know for definite what the size of the pump nut is for the sprocket?
Now I see why you need to take off the starter, you need access to the lower nut on the HP Pump!! |
5th December 2014, 06:48 | #20 | |
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Quote:
The second is easy enough to sort out, with a short M10 bolt, lock two nuts together and use the hex of the bolt as the Allen key, and a spanner on the inboard nut to slacken off the plug. You will find the nut size out for definite when you remove the plug, and the order is to unfasten the nut, screw in the guide to the threaded part of the timing casing, then the central part of the removal tool is screwed into the guide. Once this is done, all three M8 nuts can be removed that hold the pump in situ, you may wish to leave the two easily accessible ones in place but slackened, then wind in the bolt of the removal tool. This will release the tapered driveshaft of the pump from the timing sprocket, and the pump can then be removed. When it comes to refitting, the central bolt in the removal tool must be wound back to allow the taper to reenter the sprocket, but under no circumstances remove the tool prior to the pump being bolted back to the timing case. As a tip, place a strip of insulation tape across your socket before pushing it onto the nut, in the case of the M8 ones holding the pump in place, and indeed the 22mm one on the pump sprocket, this will retain the nut and prevent it falling off Have fun Brian |
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