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Old 20th April 2016, 08:57   #1
bluebottle47
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Default Rear spring mounts - broken spring removal

Sorry if this duplicates, but the search function ain't working!!

I've got the common problem of broken rear springs, but can't manage to remove the broken three quarters-plus turn from the bottom spring mounting. The fragment is moving fine, but despite loads of soap etc for lube, I can't turn it enough to get it released, despite applying all the force I dare.

Any bright ideas/tricks?
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Old 20th April 2016, 09:12   #2
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Cant help with how-to but have you tried the search function on this page?
much better than the simple search button that gets confused if you enter more than two words.
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Old 20th April 2016, 09:27   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebottle47 View Post
Sorry if this duplicates, but the search function ain't working!!

I've got the common problem of broken rear springs, but can't manage to remove the broken three quarters-plus turn from the bottom spring mounting. The fragment is moving fine, but despite loads of soap etc for lube, I can't turn it enough to get it released, despite applying all the force I dare.

Any bright ideas/tricks?
Presumably you have got the lower rubber insulator with the 3/4 spring piece off the car (ie: undone the bayonet fixing from the upper arm). I find the springs do not turn in the rubber mount (well, not easily anyway), so I just used a large screwdriver and levered the spring off the rubber mount, levering the coil over the rubber 'lugs'. Similar technique for replacement- lever them on (I used some waxoyl as a lubricant- will also help rustproof the lower spring coil).

Pete
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Old 20th April 2016, 12:54   #4
Jim Jamieson
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Have a look at my post under How to and follow chassis and tuning gear

It is titled "Full suspension overhaul illustrated"
Sorry I can't place a link using the iPad but hopefully it may help.
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Old 20th April 2016, 16:13   #5
EastPete
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I think what I did when refitting the springs to the pads was to locate the end of the spring in the 'end stop' part of the rubber mount, under the rubber lug above that part of the pad, then just used brute force to force the opposing rubber lug into the bottom spring coil - with a bit of waxoyl sprayed onto the rubber and lower part of the spring, this helped things along.
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Old 20th April 2016, 16:14   #6
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Default Classic rolling catch!

Thanks, all.

I read your suspension rebuild a while ago, Jim - very impressive! I just wish my job was going as smoothly as yours seemed to! And as an ex- owner of several SD1s (including a tweaked Vitesse) I just loved your Vitesse restoration too.

It all started with noises from a rear corner which proved to be a handbrake shoe steady which came adrift due to a corroded backplate. Then of course, I found rot in the upper suspension arm ... then the other upper arm ... then 2 broken springs. Everything has been a battle royal to dismantle - thank goodness for oxy acetylene! However, the rolling catch continues as the top pivot bolts won't come out of the subframe .... front undertray off ... exhaust off .... subframe off. Oh joy, oh rupture! Loadsa Waxoyl and colloidal copper going on with reassembly ....

Thanks for the advice, Pete. I was reluctant to lever away in case the spring insulator got damaged in the process - as far as I know, they aren't available any longer. Nice to know that's feasible - I'll try that with the second one! As an alternative, I've now solved the above problem by cutting through the spring with a die grinder and a carbide cutter - carefully, with plenty of water at frequent intervals to avoid cooking the rubber. Once the spring fragment is reduced to just a half turn, removal is easy. Mount the whole thing in a vice so that the rubber lip of the insulator is retracted out of harm's way. Pig of a job!

Thanks for the advice on searching, Chipsceola.
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Old 20th April 2016, 16:27   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebottle47 View Post
Thanks, all.

Thanks for the advice, Pete. I was reluctant to lever away in case the spring insulator got damaged in the process - as far as I know, they aren't available any longer. Nice to know that's feasible - I'll try that with the second one! As an alternative, I've now solved the above problem by cutting through the spring with a die grinder and a carbide cutter - carefully, with plenty of water at frequent intervals to avoid cooking the rubber. Once the spring fragment is reduced to just a half turn, removal is easy. Mount the whole thing in a vice so that the rubber lip of the insulator is retracted out of harm's way. Pig of a job!
I also think the spring rubber isolators are not longer available. However, I found these were fairly sturdy and you would be hard pushed to damage or tear them, as long as they have not perished. Apply plenty of lubricant of some sort (washing up liquid, silicone grease or similar) and choose a good point to ease the wide-bladed screwdriver between the isolator and spring coil, and they should come off. Let us know how you get on with the second one.
Cheers

Pete
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Old 20th April 2016, 22:38   #8
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Thanks for reading my posts, glad it helped.

I'm a glutton for punishment as I'm doing the same thing again on my V6.
Yesterday I spent 5 hours just removing the two top suspension bolts on the outside.
After removing the entire sub frame I was dreading the inner bolts but surprisingly all four came out with ease.
I've now got the parts away for sand blasting before the rebuild with new springs and shocks.
I still have the Vitesse tucked away under its tailored cover in the garage alongside my Vanden Plas Princess 1300
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Old 21st April 2016, 16:02   #9
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Default Removing and refitting rear spring isolators

Pete's method of removal of broken bits is best - a nice long pry bar which combines leverage with slimness is as good a weapon as any.

I thought I'd share a method of refitting the isolators. The top ones will just push on, but not the bottom ones.

Find a lump of scrap wood of decent thickness, and drill a 30mm hole in it to accommodate the bayonet fitting.

Then, using a jack and an immovable object (in my case, a JCB!), press the isolator into position, having first aligned it correctly with the end of the spring. Loads of lube (I used Waxoyl) helps. The lump of wood, placed over the bayonet, will protect the isolator.

Just keep your distance in case the spring pops out!

I hope this'll help someone else faced with this job ....

I'd post some pix but can't manage to do that as 'insert image' seems to need a URL. And the bit at the bottom, ofthe page says I'm not allowed to post attachments. Help!

Cheers

Ian
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Old 22nd April 2016, 00:45   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebottle47 View Post
I'd post some pix but can't manage to do that as 'insert image' seems to need a URL. And the bit at the bottom, of the page says I'm not allowed to post attachments. Help!

Cheers

Ian
This may be the reason.....

Basically the situation is as follows:

As a non subscriber or Registered User (FREE) you get an allowance of just 10 PM's, and can view all the forums (including the How To Sub-forums - Bodywork, Car Interior, Engine & Technical etc).

But you can't post in the following:
How To section
The 75 & ZT Gallery sections
Xpart section
Members Contribution forum
Items For Sale sections (or, by implication, therefore, sell in any other forum of the Club)
Nor can you upload attachments. Only Subscribed members can do this.


Subscribed Members (£10 per annum + FREE Member's Pack) get a 100 PM allowance, and can post in the 75 & ZT Gallery and For Sale sections.

But can't post in the:
How To section
Xpart forum.
Members Contribution forum

Further…

Both subscribed Red members, and non subscribed Light Blue members can see all of the How To section. (Passing guests who have not registered with the club
cannot see the bulk of the How Tos. All of the sub sections such as Engine & Technical, interior etc are not available to them).

Subscribed members get the following extras for supporting the club by paying a tenner:

1) The Club Welcome Pack which incluseas a Club Membership Card entitling you to discounts on selected club events for the future. (This is a one off on initial subscription).

2) Discount on club merchandise such as Mugs, Calendars, Badges etc

3) Reduced rates with certain trader members in the club

4) An increase in Private Message capacity - from 10 to 100

5) An increase in the capacity of your Image Gallery - from 1 picture to over 200

6) Ability to use a custom avatar of your choice

7) Ability to upload animated signatures & attachments to posts,
although the viewing of existing attachments stills remains for all.

8) Exclusive access to the 'Subscribed Member's' Private Forum

9) Eligibility to post in the Club Classified Forum & all associated 'For Sale' sections
(except to respond to the Members Cars' For Sale forum for reasons given elsewhere)

10) Eligibility to post in the 75 & ZT Gallery Forum

11) Eligibility to submit photographs for possible inclusion in the annual club calendar

12) Free access to the club's VIS Tester (of interest to all V6 owners), you just need to cover the small postage charge.

Hope that helps.

However, if you save a pic to the likes of Photobucket etc, you can embed the link and so be able to display the pic on the forum

Looking forward to your pics
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Last edited by Dragrad; 22nd April 2016 at 00:54.. Reason: typo
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