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Old 17th March 2019, 15:46   #11
planenut
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Steve, contact the garage you last fuelled up with and suggest that if contamination is the result of your problem, that it could only have come from their supply. Ask them outright if there have been other reports of faults from customers - you don't know until you ask. Check local media to see if others appear to be discussing it.

It does sound like water contamination and if you can, as others have suggested try to draw off a sample and let it settle.

Good luck.
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Old 17th March 2019, 17:33   #12
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Thanks for the advice, guys.



I have a jar of the fuel from the fuel filter in the kitchen so it'll settle but I'm having two minds on that being the issue.





Before you read this next part please remember I know very little about engines so my terminology and knowledge of individual parts could well be off, but I'll try to describe what I mean as I go.



I started the car up again after draining the fuel filter and checked for leaks around the filter, then I stopped the engine and went to the front of the car, I could hear some hissing near the oil filter. I assume the unit with L-pipes running into metal pipes and up into the top of the engine is the injector unit, that and surrounding pipes etc are wet with diesel so clearly I have a leak somewhere around that area, probably one of the rubber L-pipes coming from the injector...if I'm right about what is what.


I don't know if it's okay for me to be playing around with that or whether I should stick it in my local garage, I need and want it working properly but I don't want to make a situation worse.
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Old 17th March 2019, 19:46   #13
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Default FINAL UPDATE - For now!!!

When I ran the engine after emptying the fuel filter it was still running very lumpy. About half an hour later I had to go out and needed to drive so I thought, 'Well, I'm going to have to drive it as it is.'. I've been driving around for the last hour and a half or so and it isn't lumpy at all, it seems to be back to normal. As soon as I got in through my front door I looked at the jar of fuel and there are bubbles of water at the bottom so clearly there was, and may still be, some water in the tank. If it needs goes lumpy again I shall do the same procedure and hopefully remedy it for good.



But the aforementioned hissing and diesel on components at the injector unit has made me think so I have another question for anyone who can answer. As far as I'm aware, all diesel engines are a pressurised system, the hissing leads me to believe it is depressurising, do they decompress when the ignition is turned off or do they remain constantly pressurised? I feel that I've maybe sorted one problem only to find another! Any answers appreciated.
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Old 17th March 2019, 20:18   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve 75 View Post
I would very much appreciate help with this problem my car has developed. I shall give the best description I can.


My car - 2006 ('55) Rover 75 Classic saloon, 2.0 diesel CDTI.


It has run perfectly fine until recently, the only thing I did between it running fine and the issues I now have was topping the tank from just over halfway to full. I was and always have been very careful to put diesel in so I know I didn't accidentally put petrol in the car, and I used a Texaco station rather than supermarket fuel.


I quickly noticed that the engine was running lumpy but that was minimised when revving up to the point that at two and a half to three thousand revs it seemed fine so I dismissed a blockage in the fuel filter, if less fuel is getting through then I would assume it wouldn't rev up.



The symptoms have now changed, it doesn't seem lumpy anymore but the engine light comes on when I first start it and sometimes I have absolutely no throttle response whatsoever, tickover is fine but put the pedal down and....nothing at all, then it sometimes picks up, or can pick up again after turning the engine off and on again, and is fine but stop at lights and some of the time it goes back to no throttle again. It appears to be more prevalent when the engine is cold, as far as I can tell, I haven't used the car much over the weekend so that is based on limited driving.


I have looked in the Haynes book and the only thing that makes sense to me is the throttle position sensor being dicky.


Please advise if anyone knows what the problem is.


I'll bob on and off the forum to see if anyone has asked any questions to clarify things, or ideally come up with a solution.


Thanks for reading this and I hope I have made sense
This is a very common problem with facelift diesel models, and is caused by the wipers which are spot welded to the throttle PCB coming adrift and not making contact with the thick film resistor, remedied with one of THESE

However I've on one occasion only seen this attributed to an ECM where the connector corresponding to the throttle demand pedal having a "green" verdigris on the ECM pins itself, caused by the owner not running with the ECM black housing lid in place, along with the plenum shield not being in place, unlikely but there you go.

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Old 18th March 2019, 10:16   #15
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If you have got a leak of diesel on the top part of the engine, it could be the leak off pipes that return unused diesel to the diesel tank. One piece of advice:- DO NOT MESS ABOUT WITH LEAKING PIPES ON A DIESEL WITH THE ENGINE RUNNING. The pressure that our common rail engines run at is very, very high. 250-1350 bar. enough that if your fingers are anywhere near the leaking items, you could end up in hospital with possible gangarene.With the engine off, you can check all the small tee pieces on top of the injectors to see if they are leaking.
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Old 19th March 2019, 12:22   #16
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Yesterday the car took many cranks to start up but did eventually start, then it wouldn't rev up so I did the tps reset with 5 pushes of the accelerator pedal and it worked and ran fine all day with no EML and no juddering at all.


This morning I tried to start it and it wouldn't even attempt to fire. If it were the pedal then AFAIK it would fire up but just idle so that isn't my problem.


I've emptied the fuel filter again and that hasn't changed anything.


I have a dead car, now with a dead battery, and don't know what the best course of action is.


Please help!
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Old 19th March 2019, 13:44   #17
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Forget everything I've said, I'm pretty certain I know what the problem is and it isn't good news.


After trying and double trying things I decided to check the ECU. Before anybody says anything I know it's a 'rookie mistake' but the plenum is blocked, there is a puddle below the ECU and the connectors are wet. I removed the cover of the ECU to check if the circuit board was wet or just the connectors, there was some moisture at the edge of the board where the case and lid clamp to it but none at all on the components on either side so I'm hoping that clearing the moisture from the connectors, mopping out the bay and clearing the plenum will be enough otherwise I shall have to replace the ECU, a cost and hassle I can live without but that's life.


Like I say, I know I should have checked the plenum chamber before winter but I didn't so any costs are of my own making. You can verbally beat me up if you want but it's nothing compared to what I do to myself when I mess up.
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Old 19th March 2019, 15:34   #18
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Send marinabrian a pm, he will have a replacement ecu out to you in no time and a lot cheaper that one from Rimmer Bros.
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Old 19th March 2019, 17:05   #19
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The main thing is that you have found the problem and probably cured some other problem areas in the process.
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Old 19th March 2019, 18:54   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
Send marinabrian a pm, he will have a replacement ecu out to you in no time and a lot cheaper that one from Rimmer Bros.

Thanks for that, a contact maybe handy but it will be morning before I get a dry chance to refit the ECU and see if I have killed it.



On that note, is there anything I need along with a new ECU? I'm sure I read that you need another item and also a keyfob relating to the ECU that gets fitted, but I don't know what the score is with a new ECU. And will I have to take it to a garage so they can program it to the car? I'm a bit ignorant on the technicalities, sorry.


Quote:
Originally Posted by roverbarmy View Post
The main thing is that you have found the problem and probably cured some other problem areas in the process.

I hope you are right, unless several things have all gone wrong at the same time, which is unlikely, I feel that the other problems were related to the ECU problem. So far I'm hoping that the wet connectors have simply shorted across causing the other problems and not done any damage to the ECU.


I'll let you all know how I get on after putting the ECU back in.
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