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Old 29th February 2012, 16:19   #1
Jakg
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Default How To - Fitting Lower Engine Mount (Diesel)

Couple of safety things - do not do this under a jack! Properly support the car with axle stands!

Also - obvious, I know, but don't do this with a hot car - you'll have the turbo above your face, the exhaust just above your hair and the sump above your chin...!

First, jack up the car. I used the jacking point at the front of the car, as recommended by Haynes (in the centre of the engine bay, small bit of metal pokes through the undertray). Obviously only use a trolley jack for this!

Second, put some axle stands under the car. Haynes recommends putting them under the jacking points, but I found that the car was too low / the jack wouldn't go high enough so that just wasn't possible. Instead I put them under the front subframe.





Lower the car onto the axle stands and make sure it's secure BEFORE you get under it.

Now, remove the undertray - you'll find the screws (crosshead) are probably rusty and easy to destroy the heads so be careful. I've marked the locations of all the screws (although your car might not have as many as it should...)



(picture is taken from the top, on the bottom it's obviously just black)

You should now be left with this...



Your looking for the teardrop shaped mount, which can be seen just to the side of the exhaust, on the drivers side, near the wheel.

And the mount itself...



To remove, just undo the 2x 15mm bolts and it should easily come out



I replaced it with a new mount sporting a Powerflex bush



To refit, slide it in place and push the bolts through and do them up - I strongly recommend you do them up TIGHT as I had some very annoying vibrations at idle / through the clutch when I had only done them up loosely.

When finished should look like this



Then put the undertray back on (making sure it's done up WELL - LOADS of owners have undertrays fall off after being worked on!), raise the car, remove the axle stands, and drop the car back down, and your done

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result
of you following this How-To.

Last edited by Jakg; 11th September 2012 at 22:41.. Reason: Disclaimer added
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Old 29th February 2012, 17:45   #2
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Thats a great how to, and it really is that simple!
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Old 29th February 2012, 18:05   #3
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Brilliant how to mate. Well done Jake
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Old 29th February 2012, 18:27   #4
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wow, brilliant how to, really helpful, I might even be tempted to try this myself if i can pinch some axle stands from somewhere.
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Old 29th February 2012, 18:39   #5
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Nice & clear how to. It appears to be a bit easier on the diesel than on the V6, i replaced the one on our ZT last weekend but the lambda sensor stopped the bolt coming out - luckily the sensor came out ok & made life easier.

Steve.
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Old 29th February 2012, 18:45   #6
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i just ordered one and hopefully fit at weekend, not got axle stands so will use ramps instead but clutch is on its last legs so will jack it up on to them tho
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Old 1st March 2012, 00:08   #7
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You must be slim, to be able to get under a car that low

A pair of ramps would get it higher and would be quicker.

I painted the jacking point under the engine white, makes it much easier to find against the black of the under panel.
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Old 1st March 2012, 00:27   #8
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Jack fantastic how to jacking point for anyone whom needs to see it .Arctic.




I use this wooden base i made to give me that little extra lift in height


Then i can get the axle stands on the jacking points easier
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Old 1st March 2012, 01:18   #9
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Worthy indeed of a How To entry..... here.

Arctic - from your pics, is there a missing jack pad there in pic 4?
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Old 1st March 2012, 08:07   #10
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So your not changing the smaller bush then?
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